StarChefs

It was my great fortune to attend the discussion between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White, moderated by Michael Ruhlman at the Third Annual Chefs Congress in New York. Hosted by Antoinette Bruno, the CEO of starchefs.com, the event is a showcase for chefs, people in the restaurant business, sommeliers and mixologists. One of the only events of its kind, the three-day gathering featured lectures, a products fair, cocktails and, to cap it off, a “rising stars” gala.

I happened to gain entry to this event after interning for a PR company that handled the press for StarChefs. Upon paying my dues for an hour at the press and sponsor check-in, I took off to explore the vast hall of culinary products, beer, wine and cheese. Slightly intimidated by the professional food crowd, I roamed from table to table, a taste of pate here, a sip of wine there.

My main goal was to see Anthony Bourdain, whose philosophy on food and life I greatly admire. After reading his books and watching “No Reservations,” I was eager to see him speak in person. It’s funny that Bourdain should have fans like me as he sees himself as a lucky bum who happened to be rocketed to stardom by Kitchen Confidential. But he does have fans, lots of them. They filled the stands for the most part to see him converse with Marco Pierre White, the original “bad boy” of the culinary world and smug in that persona.

The topic of the day was “The Role of the Chef.” The discussion began with the questions about who were true chefs today, and could they still name themselves as such if not behind the stove? So many famous chefs these days are more CEO’s than anything else, running 5, 10, 15 restaurants at once. Is it a positive or negative trend? Can they accept the Michelin stars if they themselves are not doing the culinary work?

Marco’s answer was decidedly “no.” He himself had given up his Michelin stars when he discontinued work in his kitchens. He stated that if he was eating at a restaurant with the chef’s name above the door, the chef should be there, that it was important to the integrity of the cuisine. Bourdain disagreed saying it was only reasonable that a 50-year-old man, a 35-year veteran of the kitchen should try to succeed in other ways. It wasn’t rational to expect an experienced chef to be garnishing every plate and searing every piece of salmon. It was the chef’s vision, his training and the ideas he represented that were important.

So then what is the role of a chef? Marco went on and on about inspiration. His self-righteousness in this was overpowering as he slumped in his chair speaking about his mother as his favorite chef and his disdain for multiple course meals–an attitude about which he was very clear even though Ruhlman pointed out that he had been an innovator in this type of cuisine and seemed to have forgotten his past.

Anthony on the other hand did not at all strike me as pretentious. He stated that the main role of a celebrity chef was to show the world what good could be taken from food as well as to put those who had gone astray back on the path of healthy, happy eating. The role of the celebrity chef is to lead away from junk food and towards the realm of fresh and forgotten ingredients. Nearly quoting directly from one of his essays in The Nasty Bits, he stated that the world was a better place after Emeril and especially Mario Batali (although not necessarily Sandra Lee). He and Marco did warn that if a young chef is getting into the business to be on TV, beware! It is for the love of the life of a chef and the food that one should enter the business and for no other reason.

Lastly they talked about where they thought food trends were headed after being prompted by members of the audience. Earlier they had made it very clear that the four-hour, multi-course tasting menu should be a thing of the past. They both despised dainty plates of food accompanied by instructions and disdained the snobbery of the atmosphere – unless, of course, the multiple courses were Sushi. Anthony stated that what he wanted was simple, well prepared food made from top-notch ingredients. Some pasta expertly sauced, a grilled fish on the bone, a roasted chicken. Marco agreed and stated again that he wanted one course, that’s it.

The discussion was amusing, and drew many a laugh from the audience throughout. Bourdain, as I had expected, was as handsome and charming in person as he is on the television. I found him eloquent and not at all pretentious, especially when seated next to White. Perhaps I shouldn’t be too harsh on Marco Pierre White. He is who he is and has been for a long time. Ruhlman, in his Tevas, was a good moderator and prompted well. It was an enjoyable event, and while the question “what is the role of a chef”, may not have been fully answered, it led to an interesting discussion.

I saw Anthony, Marco and Michael as the left the building. I could have gone up, praised their work, and asked for an autograph, but I couldn’t bring myself to it. Wouldn’t that make them the very people they hoped not to be? The celebrity followed by paparazzi, with their pictures up on Perez Hilton? No, these where chefs, and like myself, in it for the food. I took one last glance, and headed for the subway.