I was just checking out Michael Ruhlman’s blog at http://blog.ruhlman.com/, when I came across an entry blasting the press release for Alain Ducasses’s new cookbook, Ducasse Made Simple by Sophie. As it happens, I was the one who translated the press release from French so that it could be sent out to the many editorial staffs around the country who just LOVE getting press release after press release.

So anyways, that’s exciting. Something I worked on getting blasted by the ever amusing, ever sarcastic, ever Teva-wearing Michael Ruhlman. I have to agree with him, the idea of simplifying Ducasse, who is difficult by nature, is slightly ridiculous. But hey, it wasn’t my idea, I just did the translation.

If you want to read what the blog said go to: The Fallacy of the Quick and Easy Cookbook @ http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/10/the-fallacy-of.html

Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Ate the other night at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope with Cliff, his sister Laura, and his parents, who were kind enough to treat us. Although Mr. H. was bummed about the future of the stock market and was on his Blackberry for much of the time, the food was still very fine indeed. Despites these uncertain times, the Brasserie did not seem to be hurting for business.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie is one of eight successful establishments owned by the Bromberg Brothers. Located directly next to its Sushi counterpart (reviewed below), Blue Ribbon, which opened in Brooklyn in 2001, maintains the high standard of quality that has come to be expected from the Brombergs.

The warm and bustling atmosphere with red walls, a large raw bar, banquettes and mirrors, is a pleasant place to enjoy some comfort food. Out waiter was very attentive and friendly, perhaps even a bit over-eager. We all drank wines by the glass, and my large pour of Tempranillo was pleasing to the palate.

To start, we shared four appetizers. Laura ordered the artichoke, which was classic and delicious with a lemon butter dip. The pirogues that I ordered were hearty and familiar, with some perfectly caramelized onions along side. I didn’t try the sardines, (I was a bit hung-over, but I usually love them), but they got rave reviews from the other diners. Lastly the chicken wings that Cliff ordered were fantastic and came with a little pot of fire to caramelize them on. At first we thought this was a gimmick, but once it got going, it actually put some tasty char on those wings!

For our main courses, Mr. H. and I ordered the duck confit, with an orange sauce and roasted potatoes. It was well cooked and I especially enjoyed the garlicky salad dressing that came on my little side of greens. However, the overall portion of duck was a bit small. Mrs. H. ordered the salmon with mashed potatoes, which she raved about. Laura had the fried chicken that was apparently tender and scrumptious, although she was too full to finish it off. Cliff was the most adventurous and ordered the pigeon (not squab, pigeon) and enjoyed his first encounter with this particular fowl. It was very rich in flavor, and I was proud of the boy who once lived continually on peanut butter sandwiches.

Even though we were all pretty “stuffed,” of course, we ordered dessert. We had one Chocolate Bruno, which is Blue Ribbon’s signature dish, and half portions of both the chocolate chip and Banana Walnut Bread Pudding. I loved the Banana Walnut Pudding because it reminded me of my favorite Baang desert, banana nut spring rolls. My dinner companions gobbled up the chocolate dishes, so we can safely assume they enjoyed them!

It was a very cheering dinner in these not so cheerful times, even if the bill was probably a bit steep. There is something on the menu for everyone, from the youngest to the eldest patron. Diverse, upscale comfort food for all, Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope is most definitely a winner.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie
278 5th Avenue (between 1st and Garfield)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-840-0408
Reservations are accepted for five or more.

Birth-Day Par-Tay

Birthday Dinner

I wasn’t going to have a birthday party. I hate when people obsess over their birthdays, so this year I thought I’d just let it pass by. Of course there was the obligatory family dinner, heretofore described, and maybe I’d go out with the boyfriend, but besides that, no party.

Then, suddenly, it was five days before the big day. People started asking, “What are you doing for your birthday?” and “Are you having a party, going to a bar?” Well I couldn’t say I was doing nothing now, could I? So, I sent out a desperate, last minute e-mail trying to wrangle as many people as I could. And then I started planning for the food.

The plan was to have a little shindig over at Cliff’s apartment, no big deal. There would be friends, drinks and lots of food. I decided on an all-appetizer theme. In case you didn’t know, making all appetizers is hard. Preparing lots of little things, as opposed to a few large items, is pretty labor-intensive. Next time I will keep this in mind.

Anyway, things turned out quite well. I made chicken sate, babaganoush with Lebanese flatbread, blinis with crème fraiche and smoked salmon, Stilton stuffed-mushrooms, and two pork tenderloins. We finished it all off with a delicious chocolate cake courtesy of Aux Delice. Several have asked for recipes, so I thought I’d post some of the good ones.

I don’t want to plagiarize, so I have to give a lot of the credit to the cookbook I used, (even though I’d like to say I made them all up). The book is Appetizers, Finger Good, Buffets & Parties, edited by Bridget Jones, and published by Hermes House. The book is generally clear, and the recipes went well for the most part, although some of the directions were a bit confusing. (A lemon-basil aioli dip went disastrously wrong.) Also, since I prefer to go a little free form sometimes, I made some modifications to the recipes

Chicken Saté

I have to say, this was the hit of the party. It went FAST. I doubled the recipe, and it was about enough for 7 people.

3 boneless chicken breasts
6-inch wooden skewers

For the marinade:
• 12 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 8 tablespoons soy sauce
• 8 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 3-inch piece fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped
• 6 garlic cloves
• 4 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 2 small fresh red chilies, seeded and chopped
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro


For the peanut sauce:
• 6 tablespoons peanut butter
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar


First, prepare the marinade by mixing all of the above ingredients in a bowl. A food processor is not necessary for this, just make sure you whisk it well.

Next, begin preparing the chicken by making sure all the excess fat is removed. Then slice the chicken into 1½-inch cubes. The easiest way to do this is cut it into about 4 strips length wise, and then cut crosswise.

Place the chicken and marinade in a plastic bag, making sure it’s tightly sealed, and place it in the refrigerator to marinate. If you have the time, leave it overnight. That is what I did and the flavors were powerful and clear.

For the peanut sauce, mix all of the ingredients together in a medium-sized bowl making sure it is well blended. You can adjust the sauce with more peanut butter, soy sauce or sugar depending on your preference. I like mine very peanut-y.

When you are getting ready to grill, skewer the chicken, about three pieces per stick. I used a large, two burner, cast iron grill, but you could use a regular outdoor grill or broiler.

If you are using an indoor grill as I did, turn the heat up very high and let the grill get hot before you start. Cook the chicken for about 2 minutes on each side, or until it is golden and cooked through. If you use the broiler, put them in for about 4-5 minutes on a cookie sheet lined with tin foil (to avoid a burned-on mess).

Place skewered chicken on a serving tray with the peanut sauce and enjoy!

Baang For My Birthday

A Greenwich favorite for over 12 years, Baang has still got it. I have eaten there many times and tried almost everything on the menu. Sometimes I even do takeout. The kitchen was particularly “on” last Thursday night, however, when we went to celebrate my big 2-3.

I met my family there around 6:00, early-bird time, as we were with my grandmother. We were the first ones there and got a nice round table with a booth. Baang is separated into two levels with a big open kitchen on the upper level. Up a couple steps and along one side is a long, curvy bar, and the room has high ceilings with over-arching mesh “sculptures”.

We started with some drinks, of course. I took a look at the “drink specials” menu (which I always do) and got a Passion-tini – a very fresh and satisfying passion fruit concoction made with vodka. Everyone else had Cosmos, which were perfectly pink and well blended. We then made the unanimous decision to start with a selection of appetizers since they are always amazing.

We ordered five in total. First up were the fantastic lobster crepes in a cream and plum wine sauce. They melt in your mouth, they are incredible, you must try them. That’s all I’ll say. Next up was a Baang classic, Fire Cracker Spring Rolls. They are very hot and come with a wasabi mustard dipping sauce that draws a searing fire through the nose, a good thing in my opinion.

We then tried three new items on the appetizer list: mushroom croquettes, a scallop gratin, and a salmon tartar. The mushroom croquettes had the earthy scent of wild mushroom and pleasing, soft inside and a crunchy exterior. The Scallop Gratin was gooey, hot and accompanied by asparagus. We all know I am a fan of gratin, and this was a unique twist on the traditional version. Our last selection was the true winner, salmon tartar on a tiny vegetable cake. We had six of them, and I was grudgingly allowed two since it was my birthday. The salmon was extremely fresh, and the little cake below resembled a crab cake, sans crab. I could happily eat the whole plate for lunch.

Onto the entrees, which on this night were as appealing as the appetizers. Of course, we had to order the calamari salad. This really deserves a paragraph of its own. It’s a whopping heap of frisse lettuce, a superb creamy dressing with a touch of chili oil, and fried calamari rolled in corn meal and cooked to perfection. We order it every time we eat at Baang. Everyone in town knows about it. It is, hands down, the best calamari salad you have ever had.


On the meatier side of things, we ordered spice-encrusted Szechuan lamb chops with wasabi mashed potatoes. The lamb chops were dainty and deliciously grilled, a perfect little portion of meat. The mashed potatoes came wrapped up in spring roles, making it easy to share and a fun twist that I had never seen before. Last, we enjoyed roasted magret of duck with an Asian pear salad and sweet potato gratin. Separately, these were all sweet and tasty things, but when combined, the taste was taken to a whole new level. Everything was truly phenomenal, and we had no problem finishing every last bit of food.

To finish off the meal, just two light desserts, my personal favorite, banana nut spring rolls, and a chocolate pagoda. The banana nut spring rolls from Baang are up there on my all-time “best desserts” list along with a chocolate lava cake I had in Paris. For my wedding cake, I want these things stacked in an enormous pile. The chocolate pagoda is also a faux-asian little charmer. The quality of the chocolate is very high and sure to satisfy the craving of any chocolate addict.

One warning I should give about Baang is that it gets very loud on weekend nights. Not just a din, but a commotion. They blast that techno music like you’re in a European Dance Club at 2:00 am. This can be fun for a large party, but bad for a date or gathering with older family members. It is also quite dark, so if you don’t see well, be prepared. Weekdays are much better for noise, and if you go early, as we did, you won’t have any problem. Lunch is also a great option if you want to skip the hubbub entirely.

To conclude, if you haven’t gone to Baang and you live in the area, you are missing out. The flavors are unique, savory and delicious. The price is a little high, but this is not the kind of stuff most of us can cook at home, so it is worth every penny. No need to head to the city for best fusion around, it’s right on the Post Road.


Baang Cafe and Restaurant
1191 East Putnam Avenue
Riversde CT, 06878
203-637-2114

Gratin Provencal

When I left France, I was sick of gratin. We ate it almost every night. It was very heavy on the béchamel, and often the vegetables involved were overcooked. But as time has passed, I have come to crave the gooey deliciousness that was the essence of this cheesy vegetable dish once more. It is definitely comfort food, and the way I make it, perhaps not the lightest. But every so often, preferably on a chilly night, it makes the perfect meal. There are many variations, but this is my recipe, and I think it is a pleasant concoction –not too heavy but still maintaining the integrity of a proper French gratin.

40 Minutes. Serves six as a side dish, four as a main dish.

Ingredients
• 5 Tablespoons Butter
• 2 Large Yellow Onions
• 4 Zucchini (or 2 Zucchini and 2 Yellow Squash), sliced into ¼ inch pieces, skin on
• 2 Tablespoons Flour
• 1 Tablespoon Salt
• 1 Tablespoon Fresh Black Pepper
• ¾ Cup Hot Milk
• 20 Cherry Tomatoes, halved
• ¾ Cup Grated Gruyere Cheese
• ½ Cup Bread Crumbs (preferably homemade)
• 2 Tablespoons Chopped Fresh Rosemary

Preheat oven to 400°

Slice onions into thin rings. Place in large, heavy pan (preferably cast-iron), and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes until soft and clear. Place zucchini in pan with onions and cook covered for about 10 minutes or until soft.

Add salt and pepper and cook another 2 minutes. Add flour and stir in so that it coats the zucchini and onions. Add the hot milk and let it thicken to a sauce-like consistency, about two minutes.

Pour mixture into an 8” by 10” backing dish. Add cherry tomatoes so that they are spread evenly on top of the zucchini and onion mixture. Coat dish with Gruyere cheese, chopped rosemary and breadcrumbs. Place in oven for about 20 minutes or until bubbling and brown. Serve immediately.


So there we have it. A simple dish that will bring back your childhood memories of France, or at least make you wish you had a French childhood. I wish I did, but I guess this is close enough.

StarChefs

It was my great fortune to attend the discussion between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White, moderated by Michael Ruhlman at the Third Annual Chefs Congress in New York. Hosted by Antoinette Bruno, the CEO of starchefs.com, the event is a showcase for chefs, people in the restaurant business, sommeliers and mixologists. One of the only events of its kind, the three-day gathering featured lectures, a products fair, cocktails and, to cap it off, a “rising stars” gala.

I happened to gain entry to this event after interning for a PR company that handled the press for StarChefs. Upon paying my dues for an hour at the press and sponsor check-in, I took off to explore the vast hall of culinary products, beer, wine and cheese. Slightly intimidated by the professional food crowd, I roamed from table to table, a taste of pate here, a sip of wine there.

My main goal was to see Anthony Bourdain, whose philosophy on food and life I greatly admire. After reading his books and watching “No Reservations,” I was eager to see him speak in person. It’s funny that Bourdain should have fans like me as he sees himself as a lucky bum who happened to be rocketed to stardom by Kitchen Confidential. But he does have fans, lots of them. They filled the stands for the most part to see him converse with Marco Pierre White, the original “bad boy” of the culinary world and smug in that persona.

The topic of the day was “The Role of the Chef.” The discussion began with the questions about who were true chefs today, and could they still name themselves as such if not behind the stove? So many famous chefs these days are more CEO’s than anything else, running 5, 10, 15 restaurants at once. Is it a positive or negative trend? Can they accept the Michelin stars if they themselves are not doing the culinary work?

Marco’s answer was decidedly “no.” He himself had given up his Michelin stars when he discontinued work in his kitchens. He stated that if he was eating at a restaurant with the chef’s name above the door, the chef should be there, that it was important to the integrity of the cuisine. Bourdain disagreed saying it was only reasonable that a 50-year-old man, a 35-year veteran of the kitchen should try to succeed in other ways. It wasn’t rational to expect an experienced chef to be garnishing every plate and searing every piece of salmon. It was the chef’s vision, his training and the ideas he represented that were important.

So then what is the role of a chef? Marco went on and on about inspiration. His self-righteousness in this was overpowering as he slumped in his chair speaking about his mother as his favorite chef and his disdain for multiple course meals–an attitude about which he was very clear even though Ruhlman pointed out that he had been an innovator in this type of cuisine and seemed to have forgotten his past.

Anthony on the other hand did not at all strike me as pretentious. He stated that the main role of a celebrity chef was to show the world what good could be taken from food as well as to put those who had gone astray back on the path of healthy, happy eating. The role of the celebrity chef is to lead away from junk food and towards the realm of fresh and forgotten ingredients. Nearly quoting directly from one of his essays in The Nasty Bits, he stated that the world was a better place after Emeril and especially Mario Batali (although not necessarily Sandra Lee). He and Marco did warn that if a young chef is getting into the business to be on TV, beware! It is for the love of the life of a chef and the food that one should enter the business and for no other reason.

Lastly they talked about where they thought food trends were headed after being prompted by members of the audience. Earlier they had made it very clear that the four-hour, multi-course tasting menu should be a thing of the past. They both despised dainty plates of food accompanied by instructions and disdained the snobbery of the atmosphere – unless, of course, the multiple courses were Sushi. Anthony stated that what he wanted was simple, well prepared food made from top-notch ingredients. Some pasta expertly sauced, a grilled fish on the bone, a roasted chicken. Marco agreed and stated again that he wanted one course, that’s it.

The discussion was amusing, and drew many a laugh from the audience throughout. Bourdain, as I had expected, was as handsome and charming in person as he is on the television. I found him eloquent and not at all pretentious, especially when seated next to White. Perhaps I shouldn’t be too harsh on Marco Pierre White. He is who he is and has been for a long time. Ruhlman, in his Tevas, was a good moderator and prompted well. It was an enjoyable event, and while the question “what is the role of a chef”, may not have been fully answered, it led to an interesting discussion.

I saw Anthony, Marco and Michael as the left the building. I could have gone up, praised their work, and asked for an autograph, but I couldn’t bring myself to it. Wouldn’t that make them the very people they hoped not to be? The celebrity followed by paparazzi, with their pictures up on Perez Hilton? No, these where chefs, and like myself, in it for the food. I took one last glance, and headed for the subway.