Tuesday, September 16, 2008

A Personal Favorite

As I was winding my way to a friend’s new apartment the other night, I passed a restaurant that I hadn't been to in a while, but greatly enjoyed in the past. I was very excited to find that this restaurant was right next door to my friend’s new home, and suggested that we dine there that very night. The friend agreed. I'm not going to give an elaborate account of our meal, as it was long and many glasses of wine were involved, but it was truly enjoyable, just as it had been during my previous visits.

The Japanese-run restaurant featuring Italian small plates is a tiny space on 10th Avenue between 1st and 2nd. It is situated on the lowest level of the building, with half of the restaurant below the sidewalk. I would say it could fit a max of twenty people and that would be tight. It is a dark romantic space with near-black wooden tables on one side, and a long high table that seats about 10 on the other. The decor is simple and creates a wonderful atmosphere in which to enjoy the aromas wafting from the nearby open kitchen.

The wine list has grown since my previous visit, as has the menu, which no longer comes on a clipboard. All of the dishes are fairly small and cost between $5-$15 dollars. Two people can eat about four dishes.

Just to give you an idea of what the food is like, we started with cured olives and a lovely fois gras on crostini. We then had a salad with beef carpaccio "swirls" filled with an herb mixture. Probably the best thing we tried was the scallop carpaccio that even the anti-scallop contingency at the table adored. Next came some terrific mussels in a red sauce and perfectly al dente squid-ink pasta. Finally, we scarfed down a dish of braised veal that was perfect in its fattiness. It was all washed down with a light and crisp Sancerre and a decent Pinot Noir.

One of my favorite places. The ambiance is killer, and the food, while not Michelin star worthy, is simple, delicious and fulfilling. I highly recommend it, but don't tell too many people, or we wont be able to get a seat!

Dieci
228 East 10th Street
New York, NY 10003
212-387-9545

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