Monday, March 31, 2008

Gran Bar Danzon: Creativity at Last!

To my left sat two alternative American girls struggling with the wine list. To my right, a group of expensively dressed debutantes and one boy with a very fake tan. Gran Bar Danzon is listed in the Lonely Planet Guide book, so there are many English speakers there, but this did not detract too much from the hip atmosphere and interesting menu.

Situated on the second floor of a two-story building in Recoleta, the restaurant emanates a chic, minimalist style with concrete walls, candles and a long dark bar. One side of the restaurant is dedicated to lounging, while the other is reserved for eating. On one wall is a massive display of wine bottles kept in temperature-controlled cases, a physical representation of the extensive Argentine wine list.

The very wine-savvy host showed us to our table and asked if we needed help with the wine list. We ended up choosing a Cabernet Sauvignon called Kaiken at about AR$55. He tried to push us a little higher for a better quality wine, but, alas, we could not afford it. The wine we chose was fine, but for those on a bigger budget, Gran Bar Danzon offers many options from more familiar blends such as Malbec, to the less well known such as the wine Torrontes of Salta. After tackling the wine list, we dug into the menu.

The left side of the menu is dominated by sushi and sashimi. I do not trust Sushi at non-Japanese restaurants, and it appeared to me that this was an addition to keep up with the BA sushi trend rather than a true passion (a must in a good sushi chef). The chef’s attention was obviously focused on the contemporary cuisine options on the right side. In fact, it is one of the most creative menus I have seen in Buenos Aires, and for this I give the chef much credit. The choice was a tough one, but S and I finally made some decisions.

To start, I had a very good lamb duo. The first part was a lamb carpaccio rolled around cream cheese. I am usually not a fan of cream cheese unless on a bagel, and perhaps a different cheese could have been substituted for a more refined offering, but it was well presented and tasted good. The second part was a miniature rack of lamb, well seasoned and cooked, and served with some delicious new potatoes. S had a ceviche of king crab and salmon (?), very good with a strong dose of cilantro. I would definitely order that again. Another interesting appetizer was the pork and vegetable spring rolls. I didn’t try them but they sure looked tasty.

For a main course, S and I split the rabbit ravioli with ricotta emulsion. I must say, while acceptable, I was a somewhat disappointed with this dish. The emulsion didn’t have much flavor and didn’t add substance to the dish. The rabbit filling tasted good, but it could have used some cheese, as it was rather dry. The other main that looked very appealing to me was the pork loin stuffed with morsilla. They always do meat well here in Argentina, so next time I would lean towards that.

For dessert, S and I split a homemade brioche that sandwiched homemade dulce de leche. It was topped with passion fruit and coffee ice cream--very sweet and satisfying, although the coffee ice cream was a bit thick. In all, it was a good end to a tasty meal.

The ambiance at Gran Bar Danzon is terrific, prices are reasonable for the food served, and the wine list is extraordinary. Best of all, the menu provides truly interesting options in a city known for repetitive menus.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Chinatown BsAs: A Welcome Respite From All-Night Clubs and Too Much Carné


Many Argentines aren’t wild about Chinese people. It’s a fact. While they won’t admit this when questioned, they think their markets are rip-offs and that they serve dog meat in their restaurants. They believe the Chinese are taking over the world and that their mannerisms are unfriendly and standoffish. Now I’m positive not all Argentines think like this, many are open, educated and understanding. But people have said these things to me directly, and to my anthropology-trained ears, I’m rather discomfited. This ethnocentrism and lack of empathy for the immigrant making his or her way in a foreign land seems strange coming from a population comprised of immigrants. Despite the prejudice, a small, vibrant Chinatown has managed to spring up in Buenos Aires. It is not specifically “Chinatown,” but a mélange of the different Asian ethnicities--Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Laotian, etc.

Located directly behind the Barracas de Belgrano TBA train station, Chinatown is relatively small, covering about three blocks of Arribenos. It’s obvious you’ve arrived by the change in faces and language when you arrive. The three-block area contains about 20 little Chinese knick-knack stores carrying the same things you would see in San Francisco or New York Chinatown--paper fans, golden cat banks, herbal balms, cheap little tea sets and much more. It is fun to browse a couple, but generally, if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ‘em all.

Also located in Chinatown are several Chinese markets. Two of them are vast, warehouse-like structures with all of the regular Argentine basics plus Chinese products such as noodles, hot sauces, soy sauces, curries and other Asian-influenced items. They are not much to look at and smell a bit off, but the products are quite cheap, and you can find some respectable bargains. The more posh Chinese grocery, Casa China, is a very pleasant place to visit. It aims for more of a diverse Argentine crowd as opposed to just the local population.

Casa China is great for finding products you can never find in a normal Argentine grocery store. Some of the fine purchases I have made include tofu, delectably spicy garlic hot sauce, rice noodles, oatmeal cookies and lentils, as well as beans and peas that come from bins and are sold by the pound. Casa China also carries some American lines such as Paul Newman’s and has a wide variety of teas. Another great buy there are the cheap sushi rolls! Sushi is expensive in Buenos Aires, but decent rolls of tuna and Philadelphia, salmon and ginger, crab and avocado, to name a few, can be purchased for eight pesos and under. While not the best sushi, it is certainly a bargain that does satisfy a sushi craving.

Scattered amongst these shops and grocery stores are a fair number of Chinese and Asian restaurants. I have been to two, but I have dined at one, Los Palitos, three times now. I’ve had my fair share of American-style Chinese food (which this is), and I wouldn’t put it in my top three list. It does, however, serve a tasty, hearty meal and presents a terrific dining diversion from your typical Buenos Aires night out.

The décor is simple, plastic and wood tables, dark red and cream walls, some various bamboo pieces and reviews hung here and there. The restaurant usually has a good crowd, and sometimes it’s a ten-minute wait or so before you get a table. But they move quickly. Asian people eat there a lot, which is always good sign in my book. The staff is not the friendliest, and there are usually only two waiters. One is a middle-aged woman, abrupt, with a scowl on her face. The other is a man in his late 20’s who speaks some English and looked bored most of the time. It’s all part of the experience.

For starters, there are various dumplings and spring rolls. I would recommend the spring rolls; they’re fried and crispy and taste yummy dipped in duck sauce. The dumplings are fine, but rather bland. There are many main courses ranging from noodles, soups, noodle-soups, chicken, pork, seafood, beef and vegetables. One sure-fire vegetarian bet is the chop suey. A mix of bok choy, bean sprouts, peanuts and “?,” it is never overcooked and is a great break from the Argentine all-meat diet. Another good dish is the chicken with peanuts. The chicken is covered in a flavorful brown sauce with a healthy helping of nuts to make it crunchy, but it’s not spicy in the least as was indicated on the menu, a bit of a disappointment.

One thing that is deliciously spicy is the beef and noodle soup. This is my favorite offering, and one bowl can easily feed two people. The beef falls to pieces when you pick it up, and the broth is spicy, while a bit of grease from the meat makes it savory. It has plenty of noodles and veggies as well--very satisfying and not to be missed.

An appetizer, water, beer and two main dishes will cost you about $30-$40 pesos at Los Palitos. You will be stuffed if you finish it all.

Also located in Chinatown is BuddhaBA, which is supposed to be a very good Sushi and Asian cuisine spot, located in a beautiful old red and white house. Dashi Sushi is supposed to be a good place to get decent sushi as well, if you don’t mind spending the big bucks. I’ve also heard good things about Green Bamboo, a vegetarian restaurant, if you want a break from carné.

A visit to Chinatown is a great way to pass a Buenos Aires night when you’re not in the mood to dance ‘til dawn. You can cover it all in one evening, and there are some fun and interesting purchases to be made. Sometimes I go there just for the grocery store. The Asian population has set up a nice little home base here in Buenos Aires. Even with all of the adversity they face, they have managed to thrive and even bring tourism to their little area in Belgrano.

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Don Julio: Brick Walls and Good Beef

Had a lovely dinner at one of Buenos Aires' fine parilla establishments.On this occasion, I brought five study abroad kids out for their first taste of true Argentine beef. When I had heard the night before that they had been here for a whole week (!!!) and not sampled any of the famed cuisine, I was shocked. It was blasphemy in my book. I insisted that we would go out for dinner the following night, and that I would pick the restaurant and the food. So, after rolling out of bed around 4:00 PM , I hopped on my computer and did a little research on the Guia Oleo (BsAs restaurant guide).

I chose Don Julio for several reasons. First off, it had positive reviews and this is always important. Secondly, the prices seemed reasonable, not too cheap but not too expensive. The pictures also suggested a pleasant atmosphere, and it was walking distance from my apartment to boot. All encouraging factors to create a memorable meal.

Don Julio is located on the corner of Gurruchuga and Guatemala. It is a pleasant restaurant, well lit and with a charming ambiance. The tables are all covered in rawhide; the walls are of exposed brick. The lights hang a bit brightly from wagon wheels on the ceiling. It has an upstairs dining balcony as well as a "smoking" back room. As you walk in, there is a lovely parilla to the right where you can see all of the meats being prepared.

I arrived on time (as I always do, usually to my chagrin) at 9:30 PM, and had about twenty minutes to peruse the menu until the rest of the party showed up. There was a lovely wine list with many good selections, mostly expensive, but several affordable bottles. I ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sorilla ($45AR) and passed a pleasant 15 minutes sipping the smooth wine and enjoying my surroundings. I was also able to take a long look at the menu–-all of the typical parilla food as well as several very nice looking salads and a main menu with options from salmon to chicken to lamb.

When the rest of party finally arrived, I went to work ordering what I thought to be the most typical parilla cuisine. We started off with one chorizo per person and three morsilla to share. The chorizo was not the best I have ever had. It was cut off a larger portion and not as juicy as I would have liked ($7AR each). It was decent, however, and I think everyone enjoyed it. The chimichuri accompaniments were also quite spicy and flavorful. The morsilla on the other hand was very smooth and tasty and the portions were very generous ($14 AR each). There wasn’t any gristle, and it had a good helping of yellow raisins. I was surprised that everyone ate as much of it as they did and very proud as well.

We had about half an hour between courses, which is something that I always enjoy. We ordered another bottle of Malbec, although I can’t remember the name. The waiter was very attentive and even changed our glasses between bottles, a nice touch, although not completely necessary. It was a welcome rest period. Everyone was getting a little full from the sausage, and it gave us a chance to breath and digest.

Finally the main meat arrived. The portions were not as big as I had thought they would be, but they were the perfect amount for us. The Lomo was very satisfying, grilled tenderly a punto with a lovely consistency ($32AR). The Caudrito de Caudrill was tasty but had a lot of fat on it ($25AR). In fact, half of my portion was straight lard (but I did get the end piece). The Bife de Chorizo had a lovely flavaor but was a bit on the raw side ($32AR). We also had one of the better caprese salads I have had in BsAs, nice dressing and lots of fresh mozzarella.

In all, I had a very commendable experience at Don Julio. I wouldn’t say it was the finest food I have ever eaten, but it was very good. What this parilla really has going for it is the ambiance. It wasn’t too loud or dark, just very relaxing and pleasant. The service was also very good, and the waiter was always there when we needed him. I would recommend this parilla for a fun, relaxing and reasonable night out.

Don Julio: Guatemala 4691 esq. Gurruchuga 4831-9564 for reservations

Who Wants Helaaadooo?



On my way down to Argentina, the last thing that I expected was good ice cream. No one told me about this phenomenon, and when I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was shocked to see an ice cream joint on every corner. Now I like ice cream in the States; it's good on occasion, but I never make an event of going out to get the frozen treat. There is generally no revelatory moment, sitting around at home when I think, “Yes, I am going to leave the comfort of my home for the sole purpose of ice cream.” Here, however, it’s a fairly frequent occurence.

I’m going to stop using the term “ice cream” from here on out when referring to this Argentine frozen confection. Its helado, pronounced “elado” (silent H). In fact, its not really much like the stuff we get at home, Haagen Daaz, Ben and Jerry’s, etc. It's much more like Italian gelato, which makes sense since Argentina has a very strong Italian roots. Now, what is the difference between helado and ice cream you might ask? Well, helado is made with whole milk whereas ice cream is made with, you guessed it, cream. Helado also has eggs, resulting in a denser, creamier treat with less fat (3%-6% as opposed to 11%-15%). It is also served at a lower temperature, making it easier to scoop but less drippy because of all the eggs. I personally prefer helado to ice cream. It has a more intense flavor, and you don’t feel quite as guilty about eating it.

It is important to go to an artisanal Heladeria. These places generally produce their helado on the premises with fresh ingredients and have anywhere from 20 to 50 flavors. At least eight are usually Dulce de Leche flavors, my personal favorite. For those who don't know, Dulce de Leche is a very sticky caramel-like substance made by boiling down milk and sugar for long periods of time. Good Dulce de Leche helado isn’t too sweet and has a bit of a smoky flavor. You can get Dulce de Leche with chocolate bits, brownie, almonds and other little chunks of goodness mixed in. There is also usually a very large selection of chocolate and fruit flavors, which can be hit or miss depending on the location. Sambayon, Tiramisu and Panna Cotta are some other interesting options to try. It is also very important that you get more than one flavor. No Argentine would ever be satisfied with just one. There are many combinations that work, but it's generally a personal preference. I like Dulce de Leche con Brownie y Frambuesa (raspberry). Coconut and Chocolate are also a good combo.

What Heladeria is the best in Bs As is a big topic of debate. My personal favorite is Fratello, closest to my apartment at Plaza Guemes. It has a huge selection, and whatever I get is always good. They are very friendly and attentive, and you can sit at the café for as long as you please. I have also tried Munchi’s and Freddo (chains), but I generally stick to my neighborhood joint. The BEST helado I ever had, however, was down in Bariloche at a place called Jauja, famous throughout Argentine for having just that, the BEST. Their fruit flavors were phenomenal as they operate in the middle of berry-land. The chocolate was also amazing, thick, rich and a very good late-night snack.

In conclusion, if you come to Argentina, try the helado. I guarantee if you try it the first night, it will be hard to stay away for the rest of your trip.

For more info, go to:

http://www.heladeriafratello.com/

http://www.freddo.com/

http://www.heladosjauja.com/


P.S. Helado can be ordered in many different serving sizes. The little cones usually range from $5-$7AR. They then move into little cups $7-$9AR, and then to "termicos," big containers that keep helado cold for a bit, so you can take it home and keep it in your freezer. These go from 1/4 kilo at around $10AR to 1 kilo at $35AR. Enjoy!

I Got Maaaad Status


Status: My Peruvian Obsession

There is always a line outside one of my favorite BA haunts: Status. It's a good sign if ever I have seen one. Normally at any restaurants where there would be a line, I would call up and try and make a reservation, but Status is not one of “those” types of restaurants. It is a local spot, and Peruvians, Argentines and tourists alike flock to this big, well-lit restaurant to chow down some traditional home-cooked Peruvian fare.

I first went to Status with my roommate Sarah. Her reviews were already rave. She had “discovered” the place in the Lonely Planet guide before she became broke and unable to eat out on a regular basis. But Status remained on her list of restaurants even after she ran low on discretionery income, because it is cheap–-cheap and delicious.

Each meal starts out with fresh bread and some sort of intensely spicy green concoction. I’m not exactly sure what it is. All I know is that I love to scoop it onto my bread until my mouth and nostrils are burning. After that, the menu is full of enticing, if not slightly confusing, options. The first time I was there, I was so overwhelmed that I simply pointed to what the man next to me had and asked for that in my broken Spanish. It turned out to be a good decision, a mixture of fish, clams and squid in a delectable cream-colored sauce ($22AR). Perfectly seasoned, as their food always is, I had trouble finishing it.

A classic standby at Status, and what Sarah always orders, is the fried steak with vegetables and beans in a sweet brown sauce. The portions are huge, and it always hits the spot. I am usually seen at the end of the meal embarrassingly spooning the leftover onions into my mouth. This dish can also be combined with potatoes if one is in the mood to indulge a carb craving. The only miss I have ever had at Status was the chicken tamale ($9AR). While still quite edible, it came out a bit cold and was rather bland. It lacked the perfect seasoning that I had come to expect from Status. The side salad of cold onions in vinegar and herbs, however, is delectable. Another recommendation is the Pollo “Estofado,” a very nice leg of chicken with rice in another heavenly brown sauce ($16AR).

One last thing not to be missed at Status are the Pisco Sours. The national drink of Peru and Chile, yet rarely found in Argentina, the Pisco Sour is a powerful kickoff to your meal. With a good two shots of alcohol, whipped egg whites, soda and lemon, it will really get your appetite going. Follow that with a bottle from the very affordable and decent wine list, and you will be set for a night on the town.

Status: Virrey Cevallos 178, Congreso, Buenos Aires

Emotional Hunger


Lately, I have been feeling emotionally hungry. It's not a physical hunger. I have no pain in my stomach, and I am not faint as I walk around the city. No, it's in my head. Lately I have been trying to read up on the contemporary food world. When I return home, I plan to somehow break into the business! But to do this, I must be knowledgeable. Looking at all of the pictures, reading all of the restaurant reviews, menus and blogs is taking its toll. As I scroll through page after page on the World Wide Web, my mouth waters as I swoon over Michellin-starred menus.

It's not that the food in Buenos Aires isn’t good, it's just that I’m too broke to eat at any of the good restaurants. They don’t offer the same variety on all price levels that they do in New York. Occasionally I go to some cheap joints I know for Peruvian or Chinese food, but it's not the lovely, fanciful, creative food that makes my pulse race.

Argentine food tends to be a little on the boring side. Their idea of spicy is a bit of black pepper. I have to dump a whole load of their hot sauce onto a meal to even get the slightest hint of fire in my mouth. It is also difficult to find fresh herbs, spices, peppers and good condiments, unless you are willing to spend a fortune. At home, I can go out and get everything in under two or three stop–-meat, fish, herbs, you name it. Here it would take many more, and I wouldn’t know where to begin.

Honestly, it wouldn’t take the finest restaurant in New York City to satisfy my cravings. It would take the good, down-home Connecticut food I am used to. The Delis that I grew up taking for granted, some Garden Catering or some Pizza Post. How it would please me to hit up Meli-Melo for a midweek lunch or a light dinner with a choice bottle of wine. The soup, the crepes, the salads. Or then again, maybe some wings from Mackenzie’s or some baked ziti from Athens. I would eat it all. That would certainly satisfy my emotional hunger.