Sunday, March 9, 2008

Who Wants Helaaadooo?



On my way down to Argentina, the last thing that I expected was good ice cream. No one told me about this phenomenon, and when I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was shocked to see an ice cream joint on every corner. Now I like ice cream in the States; it's good on occasion, but I never make an event of going out to get the frozen treat. There is generally no revelatory moment, sitting around at home when I think, “Yes, I am going to leave the comfort of my home for the sole purpose of ice cream.” Here, however, it’s a fairly frequent occurence.

I’m going to stop using the term “ice cream” from here on out when referring to this Argentine frozen confection. Its helado, pronounced “elado” (silent H). In fact, its not really much like the stuff we get at home, Haagen Daaz, Ben and Jerry’s, etc. It's much more like Italian gelato, which makes sense since Argentina has a very strong Italian roots. Now, what is the difference between helado and ice cream you might ask? Well, helado is made with whole milk whereas ice cream is made with, you guessed it, cream. Helado also has eggs, resulting in a denser, creamier treat with less fat (3%-6% as opposed to 11%-15%). It is also served at a lower temperature, making it easier to scoop but less drippy because of all the eggs. I personally prefer helado to ice cream. It has a more intense flavor, and you don’t feel quite as guilty about eating it.

It is important to go to an artisanal Heladeria. These places generally produce their helado on the premises with fresh ingredients and have anywhere from 20 to 50 flavors. At least eight are usually Dulce de Leche flavors, my personal favorite. For those who don't know, Dulce de Leche is a very sticky caramel-like substance made by boiling down milk and sugar for long periods of time. Good Dulce de Leche helado isn’t too sweet and has a bit of a smoky flavor. You can get Dulce de Leche with chocolate bits, brownie, almonds and other little chunks of goodness mixed in. There is also usually a very large selection of chocolate and fruit flavors, which can be hit or miss depending on the location. Sambayon, Tiramisu and Panna Cotta are some other interesting options to try. It is also very important that you get more than one flavor. No Argentine would ever be satisfied with just one. There are many combinations that work, but it's generally a personal preference. I like Dulce de Leche con Brownie y Frambuesa (raspberry). Coconut and Chocolate are also a good combo.

What Heladeria is the best in Bs As is a big topic of debate. My personal favorite is Fratello, closest to my apartment at Plaza Guemes. It has a huge selection, and whatever I get is always good. They are very friendly and attentive, and you can sit at the cafĂ© for as long as you please. I have also tried Munchi’s and Freddo (chains), but I generally stick to my neighborhood joint. The BEST helado I ever had, however, was down in Bariloche at a place called Jauja, famous throughout Argentine for having just that, the BEST. Their fruit flavors were phenomenal as they operate in the middle of berry-land. The chocolate was also amazing, thick, rich and a very good late-night snack.

In conclusion, if you come to Argentina, try the helado. I guarantee if you try it the first night, it will be hard to stay away for the rest of your trip.

For more info, go to:

http://www.heladeriafratello.com/

http://www.freddo.com/

http://www.heladosjauja.com/


P.S. Helado can be ordered in many different serving sizes. The little cones usually range from $5-$7AR. They then move into little cups $7-$9AR, and then to "termicos," big containers that keep helado cold for a bit, so you can take it home and keep it in your freezer. These go from 1/4 kilo at around $10AR to 1 kilo at $35AR. Enjoy!

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