Many Argentines aren’t wild about Chinese people. It’s a fact. While they won’t admit this when questioned, they think their markets are rip-offs and that they serve dog meat in their restaurants. They believe the Chinese are taking over the world and that their mannerisms are unfriendly and standoffish. Now I’m positive not all Argentines think like this, many are open, educated and understanding. But people have said these things to me directly, and to my anthropology-trained ears, I’m rather discomfited. This ethnocentrism and lack of empathy for the immigrant making his or her way in a foreign land seems strange coming from a population comprised of immigrants. Despite the prejudice, a small, vibrant Chinatown has managed to spring up in Buenos Aires. It is not specifically “Chinatown,” but a mélange of the different Asian ethnicities--Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Laotian, etc.
Located directly behind the Barracas de Belgrano TBA train station, Chinatown is relatively small, covering about three blocks of Arribenos. It’s obvious you’ve arrived by the change in faces and language when you arrive. The three-block area contains about 20 little Chinese knick-knack stores carrying the same things you would see in San Francisco or New York Chinatown--paper fans, golden cat banks, herbal balms, cheap little tea sets and much more. It is fun to browse a couple, but generally, if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ‘em all.
Also located in Chinatown are several Chinese markets. Two of them are vast, warehouse-like structures with all of the regular Argentine basics plus Chinese products such as noodles, hot sauces, soy sauces, curries and other Asian-influenced items. They are not much to look at and smell a bit off, but the products are quite cheap, and you can find some respectable bargains. The more posh Chinese grocery, Casa China, is a very pleasant place to visit. It aims for more of a diverse Argentine crowd as opposed to just the local population.
Casa China is great for finding products you can never find in a normal Argentine grocery store. Some of the fine purchases I have made include tofu, delectably spicy garlic hot sauce, rice noodles, oatmeal cookies and lentils, as well as beans and peas that come from bins and are sold by the pound. Casa China also carries some American lines such as Paul Newman’s and has a wide variety of teas. Another great buy there are the cheap sushi rolls! Sushi is expensive in Buenos Aires, but decent rolls of tuna and Philadelphia, salmon and ginger, crab and avocado, to name a few, can be purchased for eight pesos and under. While not the best sushi, it is certainly a bargain that does satisfy a sushi craving.
Scattered amongst these shops and grocery stores are a fair number of Chinese and Asian restaurants. I have been to two, but I have dined at one, Los Palitos, three times now. I’ve had my fair share of American-style Chinese food (which this is), and I wouldn’t put it in my top three list. It does, however, serve a tasty, hearty meal and presents a terrific dining diversion from your typical Buenos Aires night out.
The décor is simple, plastic and wood tables, dark red and cream walls, some various bamboo pieces and reviews hung here and there. The restaurant usually has a good crowd, and sometimes it’s a ten-minute wait or so before you get a table. But they move quickly. Asian people eat there a lot, which is always good sign in my book. The staff is not the friendliest, and there are usually only two waiters. One is a middle-aged woman, abrupt, with a scowl on her face. The other is a man in his late 20’s who speaks some English and looked bored most of the time. It’s all part of the experience.
For starters, there are various dumplings and spring rolls. I would recommend the spring rolls; they’re fried and crispy and taste yummy dipped in duck sauce. The dumplings are fine, but rather bland. There are many main courses ranging from noodles, soups, noodle-soups, chicken, pork, seafood, beef and vegetables. One sure-fire vegetarian bet is the chop suey. A mix of bok choy, bean sprouts, peanuts and “?,” it is never overcooked and is a great break from the Argentine all-meat diet. Another good dish is the chicken with peanuts. The chicken is covered in a flavorful brown sauce with a healthy helping of nuts to make it crunchy, but it’s not spicy in the least as was indicated on the menu, a bit of a disappointment.
One thing that is deliciously spicy is the beef and noodle soup. This is my favorite offering, and one bowl can easily feed two people. The beef falls to pieces when you pick it up, and the broth is spicy, while a bit of grease from the meat makes it savory. It has plenty of noodles and veggies as well--very satisfying and not to be missed.
An appetizer, water, beer and two main dishes will cost you about $30-$40 pesos at Los Palitos. You will be stuffed if you finish it all.
Also located in Chinatown is BuddhaBA, which is supposed to be a very good Sushi and Asian cuisine spot, located in a beautiful old red and white house. Dashi Sushi is supposed to be a good place to get decent sushi as well, if you don’t mind spending the big bucks. I’ve also heard good things about Green Bamboo, a vegetarian restaurant, if you want a break from carné.
A visit to Chinatown is a great way to pass a Buenos Aires night when you’re not in the mood to dance ‘til dawn. You can cover it all in one evening, and there are some fun and interesting purchases to be made. Sometimes I go there just for the grocery store. The Asian population has set up a nice little home base here in Buenos Aires. Even with all of the adversity they face, they have managed to thrive and even bring tourism to their little area in Belgrano.
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