Sunday, March 9, 2008

Don Julio: Brick Walls and Good Beef

Had a lovely dinner at one of Buenos Aires' fine parilla establishments.On this occasion, I brought five study abroad kids out for their first taste of true Argentine beef. When I had heard the night before that they had been here for a whole week (!!!) and not sampled any of the famed cuisine, I was shocked. It was blasphemy in my book. I insisted that we would go out for dinner the following night, and that I would pick the restaurant and the food. So, after rolling out of bed around 4:00 PM , I hopped on my computer and did a little research on the Guia Oleo (BsAs restaurant guide).

I chose Don Julio for several reasons. First off, it had positive reviews and this is always important. Secondly, the prices seemed reasonable, not too cheap but not too expensive. The pictures also suggested a pleasant atmosphere, and it was walking distance from my apartment to boot. All encouraging factors to create a memorable meal.

Don Julio is located on the corner of Gurruchuga and Guatemala. It is a pleasant restaurant, well lit and with a charming ambiance. The tables are all covered in rawhide; the walls are of exposed brick. The lights hang a bit brightly from wagon wheels on the ceiling. It has an upstairs dining balcony as well as a "smoking" back room. As you walk in, there is a lovely parilla to the right where you can see all of the meats being prepared.

I arrived on time (as I always do, usually to my chagrin) at 9:30 PM, and had about twenty minutes to peruse the menu until the rest of the party showed up. There was a lovely wine list with many good selections, mostly expensive, but several affordable bottles. I ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sorilla ($45AR) and passed a pleasant 15 minutes sipping the smooth wine and enjoying my surroundings. I was also able to take a long look at the menu–-all of the typical parilla food as well as several very nice looking salads and a main menu with options from salmon to chicken to lamb.

When the rest of party finally arrived, I went to work ordering what I thought to be the most typical parilla cuisine. We started off with one chorizo per person and three morsilla to share. The chorizo was not the best I have ever had. It was cut off a larger portion and not as juicy as I would have liked ($7AR each). It was decent, however, and I think everyone enjoyed it. The chimichuri accompaniments were also quite spicy and flavorful. The morsilla on the other hand was very smooth and tasty and the portions were very generous ($14 AR each). There wasn’t any gristle, and it had a good helping of yellow raisins. I was surprised that everyone ate as much of it as they did and very proud as well.

We had about half an hour between courses, which is something that I always enjoy. We ordered another bottle of Malbec, although I can’t remember the name. The waiter was very attentive and even changed our glasses between bottles, a nice touch, although not completely necessary. It was a welcome rest period. Everyone was getting a little full from the sausage, and it gave us a chance to breath and digest.

Finally the main meat arrived. The portions were not as big as I had thought they would be, but they were the perfect amount for us. The Lomo was very satisfying, grilled tenderly a punto with a lovely consistency ($32AR). The Caudrito de Caudrill was tasty but had a lot of fat on it ($25AR). In fact, half of my portion was straight lard (but I did get the end piece). The Bife de Chorizo had a lovely flavaor but was a bit on the raw side ($32AR). We also had one of the better caprese salads I have had in BsAs, nice dressing and lots of fresh mozzarella.

In all, I had a very commendable experience at Don Julio. I wouldn’t say it was the finest food I have ever eaten, but it was very good. What this parilla really has going for it is the ambiance. It wasn’t too loud or dark, just very relaxing and pleasant. The service was also very good, and the waiter was always there when we needed him. I would recommend this parilla for a fun, relaxing and reasonable night out.

Don Julio: Guatemala 4691 esq. Gurruchuga 4831-9564 for reservations

No comments: