Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Casa Felix

All over Buenos Aires, Casa Cerradas, or “closed door” restaurants, are popping up to meet the need for a more personal dining experience. I was lucky enough to try one of these restaurants, “Casa Felix,” with C the other night while he was visiting. The restaurant is pescadarian, meaning no meat, and most of the meals are vegetable based. I was interested to try this drastic diversion from standard Argentine fare.

From the exterior, “Casa Felix” appears to be a normal house in the residential barrio of Almagro. The inside presents a fine and intimate dining experience. Before dinner the owner/cook Diego and his girlfriend/hostess Sandra gave us a tour of the whitewashed rooms and the lovely back garden. Diego grows his own indigenous herbs and emphasizes them in his cuisine. He had us smell and taste various plants he would be using in the dinner that night.

After drinking some Clerico in the back garden, we were escorted to the side patio where six little tables with white linens and candles were set – very romantic. Sandra handed us little menus on artisan paper as well as the handwritten wine list. It had some very interesting selections of whites, reds and bubblies, and we chose a bio-dynamically grown Torrontes from Salta. While waiting for the “botanic,” delicious homemade bread was served with what looked like an olive tapenade. Upon tasting, it turned out to be a terrific lentil spread that I could not stop myself from eating…until the first course.


And what a lovely first course it was! Halibut Tirado over Bolivian lime and burrito causa. A little swirl of halibut with a sweet pepper sauce, Peruvian mashed potatoes, and the sour burrito sauce on the bottom. The sweetness of the pepper with the sour lime and burrito was the highlight. All of the ingredients complemented each other fantastically, and I scooped up every last bit. The next course was called Sopa Paraguay, accompanied by an iris salad with lemon verbena dressing. The Sopa Paraguay was actually a moist corn cake topped with a peach salad. It was very well cooked, not dry and brittle like so many breads made with corn.

In between the first two courses, we were served a melon ice. It was not particularly exciting, and I think something more interesting could have been created. The main course, however, was a vegetarian’s dream. Organic ricotta and Portobello stuffed pepper, black rice, and homemade tomato sauce. Onereally couldn’t have put together a tastier vegetarian meal–and hearty enough to satisfy the most diehard carnivore. Even C, who disdains vegetarianism, was impressed. The dinner ended on a bit lower note with a rather bland cookie and ice cream. I was still impressed with the other dishes and did not let this get in the way of my enjoyment of the meal on the whole.

In the middle of a city filled with mediocre nouvelle cuisine, a lot of meat, bland vegetarian and boring Italian, Casa Felix presents a new outlook on Argentine cuisine. The three staff members were very gracious, explained all of the dishes, and made us feel comfortable and relaxed. Using fresh and organic ingredients, Diego Felix creates a memorable dining experience in his lovely home.

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