Lidia Makes Me Wish I Was Italian

I came home from New York on Sunday exhausted by a late night and by the miserable rainy weather. I fell asleep on the couch with the soothing sounds of Jacques Pepin in the background and awoke again to Lidia, just starting to work away in her kitchen on Channel 13.

I've been into Italian food lately, Northern Italian in particular, just like the rest of the world. But I prefer to think it’s my own discovery, like I’m the only one who eats at Al Di La and has dreams of slow-cooked onions and anchovies. So I was happy to see Lidia, at ease in her kitchen, cooking with her granddaughter on that dreary Sunday afternoon.

That day she was making hand rolled Makaruni in a simple rich mushroom sauce she recalled from her childhood in Istria, Italy. That show made me wish my family was Italian. Then I would know dishes like this from my childhood. I would call my grandmother Nonni, and we would have hand-gestured all over the place.

I tried making that dish for my American mother and me. I couldn’t get the Chanterelles the recipe called for, but made due with Cremini and Shitake. The pasta was simple to make using the Cuisinart. I had to fuss with the water and flour a bit but quickly got it to the right texture. The sauce took a bit longer to make then I expected, but I’m sure it would be faster the second time around. The smell wafting from the pot was earthy, mushroomy deliciousness seasoned by the concentrated tomato paste and sage.

I would call it a success. I might cook the noodles a bit longer next time but it was certainly a hearty, home-cooked meal. Click here for the recipe and enjoy. Thanks Lidia!

Stamford: Eat at the Restaurants, Avoid the Nightlife

For a long time I’ve stayed away from downtown Stamford. The thought of Hula Hank’s and the Thirsty Turtle have kept me far away. Girls in skin-tight tube tops sporting dangly butterfly belly-button rings, and guys with greasy spiked hair, diamond studs and wife-beaters have kept me at bay. I usually only venture in for the occasional movie or to drop something at my dad’s office, but in the last month or so I have sampled several of the downtown restaurants and have been surprisingly impressed.

We celebrated the farewell of a friend about a month again at Napa & Co, a year-old restaurant in the Marriot Courtyard. While exorbitantly priced for the hotel and the neighborhood, the food was impressive. In particular, my farrow, mushroom, and poached egg appetizer was delicious, flavors melding together to form a rich, creamy dish. The roasted Brussels sprouts were also a pleasant surprise. My father’s gnocchi was fluffy and tender with the help of some ricotta cheese. The menu changes nightly, and while I didn’t try it, the cheese selection was impressive. Service could have been ramped up a notch considering the tab, but it was polite and attentive enough.

We slipped in for a quick meal at Telluride about two weeks ago before seeing Slumdog Millionaire at the Avon Theatre across the street (a great place to see a movie by the way, lots of old-world charm). While I wasn’t there for long, the décor was pleasant, the service attentive and my pasta dish quite tasty. A hearty combination of penne, goat cheese, roasted red peppers in garlic was much better than I had expected. They also have an array of oysters which my grandmother took advantage of. (Don’t order the corn chowder, it tasted like it came out of a can.) Important to note is that both Napa & Co and Telluride shop at sustainable retailers and use organic meat, something that earns them major points in my book.

Last week we had a lovely pre-Valentines day meal at Duo, taking advantage of their free oyster night (again, my grandmother loves oysters). I’ve eaten at Duo before (it’s below my father’s office) and always had a very satisfying experience. The oysters were fresh, garnished in three different ways. I had sushi, and asked the manager to prepare whatever was freshest. I tried Uni for the first time, and found it quite delicious. My grandmother’s duck “duo” was excellent in both forms (sliced breast and cannelloni confit), as was my mother’s lamb (two chubby chops cooked to perfection, accompanied by couscous and root vegetables in a reduction sauce). Definitely a restaurant worth checking out, and they have great deals and specials. Get on their e-mail list.

So, while Stamford after eleven may not be my scene, it’s not a bad place to go for a casual meal or a classy night out. The downtown renovation along with the addition of U-Conn Stamford has been successful in drawing a variety of bars and eateries to the area. But instead of taking shots at Black Bear or hopping on the swing at Hula Hank’s, have a sustainable bite to eat and catch a classic at the Avon instead.

Napa & Co
75 Broad Street
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 353-3319

Telluride
245 Bedford St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 357-7679

Duo
25 Bank St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 252-2233

What I Think About Picky Eaters

I hate picky eaters. There, I said it. I was trying to figure out a more tactful way to state it, but that’s what came out. They really bother me with their, “I don’t like asparagus”, “I can’t stand scallops” and, “I only eat white food”. Or even worse is when someone says “gross!”. Just because YOU don’t like it, doesn’t make it gross. It means that you are afraid to try things, and therefore are missing out on many of the great pleasures in life, like blood-sausage.

And where does picky eating stem from? My theory: parents. It’s those parents who say, “Well we’re having pork loin, but little Billy just throws up at the sight of pork, so I’ll just make him a hot-dog and some Doritos”. I love parents who feed their kid whatever they’re eating, and too bad if they don’t like it. It’s one of the first questions I finagle into the conversation when I meet parents; it helps me judge them.

I don’t care if you don’t like a particular food, but you must try it, and more than once for that matter! Trying a Brussels sprout in third grade doesn’t count. You have to try it roasted, with lots of butter, now. I include bizarre meat products in this must-try policy as well. People all over the world eat all sorts of strange cuts and entrails all the time and love them! In America so much goes to waste. Bring me the tripe, the sweetbreads, the liver! When my beloved grandfather was ill, all he wanted were tongue sandwiches, and that is one of the many reasons I respected him so much.

So please, when you encounter something you’re afraid to eat, have courage in the fact that it probably won’t kill you and you might even enjoy it. Who knows, your new favorite snack could even be a bug.

New Year, New Parties

Dinner parties seem to be the theme of the last couple of months – they’ve certainly been my theme anyway. We’ve been trying to save money (or at least pretend like we’re saving money) by going to the grocery store and cooking in. Of course by the time we’re through, we’ve spent at least $60 bucks on various cuts of meat, herbs, veggies at the specialty food store and then more money for wine. It does feel less guilty than spending $100 on a mediocre meal at a restaurant, and you may have leftovers!

About a month ago it was a steak and potatoes night in Brooklyn, updated steak and potatoes that is. Recipes provided by Fine Cooking, of course, and wine from the lovely shop on 5th in Park Slope, Red, White and Bubbly. We started with a white bean and artichoke dip, easily blended in the Cuisinart. Then it was on to an herb-marinated steak, which sat overnight in olive oil, kosher salt, pepper, fresh rosemary and thyme and then was grilled on the indoor cast-iron behemoth in Cliff’s kitchen. For a side, we had the very successful smashed potatoes, a mix between mashed and fried potatoes, especially popular with the male contingent. To finish, waffle-iron chocolate chip/oatmeal cookies. A very easy dinner, satisfying and fun to share with a few friends.

Another night’s dinner was a bit more complicated. Our aspirations were higher as we had the whole evening to cook, and Cliff’s parents’ giant kitchen to do so in. We slacked on hors d’oevres, just veggies and dip. For the main course, I tried something I’d seen in the “Roasting” special edition that Fine Cooking had just put out, Chorizo and Apple stuffed Pork Roast. I’d never stuffed anything like that before, and we had quite the adventure getting the chorizo inside the pork. For the side, we served a shallot and Gruyere potato gratin that even our French “amie” praised. For dessert, my hero Jacques Pepin’s Cuisinart almond cake, an easy crowd pleaser.

On other nights, there have been braises, a perfect winter meal and an east way to transform a cheaper cut of meat! We’ve also gone back to our old standby, baked mac and cheese with broccoli, as well as Roast Chicken à la Alice Waters. So now that I’ve made so many dinners, I’m just waiting for my pals to reciprocate. Cooking at home is an easy and amusing way to spend a cold night indoors, catch up with friends, and save a little money at the same time.


Smashed Potatoes

Apple and Chorizo Stuff Pork

Waffle Iron Oatmeal-Chocolate Chip Cookies