Baang For My Birthday

A Greenwich favorite for over 12 years, Baang has still got it. I have eaten there many times and tried almost everything on the menu. Sometimes I even do takeout. The kitchen was particularly “on” last Thursday night, however, when we went to celebrate my big 2-3.

I met my family there around 6:00, early-bird time, as we were with my grandmother. We were the first ones there and got a nice round table with a booth. Baang is separated into two levels with a big open kitchen on the upper level. Up a couple steps and along one side is a long, curvy bar, and the room has high ceilings with over-arching mesh “sculptures”.

We started with some drinks, of course. I took a look at the “drink specials” menu (which I always do) and got a Passion-tini – a very fresh and satisfying passion fruit concoction made with vodka. Everyone else had Cosmos, which were perfectly pink and well blended. We then made the unanimous decision to start with a selection of appetizers since they are always amazing.

We ordered five in total. First up were the fantastic lobster crepes in a cream and plum wine sauce. They melt in your mouth, they are incredible, you must try them. That’s all I’ll say. Next up was a Baang classic, Fire Cracker Spring Rolls. They are very hot and come with a wasabi mustard dipping sauce that draws a searing fire through the nose, a good thing in my opinion.

We then tried three new items on the appetizer list: mushroom croquettes, a scallop gratin, and a salmon tartar. The mushroom croquettes had the earthy scent of wild mushroom and pleasing, soft inside and a crunchy exterior. The Scallop Gratin was gooey, hot and accompanied by asparagus. We all know I am a fan of gratin, and this was a unique twist on the traditional version. Our last selection was the true winner, salmon tartar on a tiny vegetable cake. We had six of them, and I was grudgingly allowed two since it was my birthday. The salmon was extremely fresh, and the little cake below resembled a crab cake, sans crab. I could happily eat the whole plate for lunch.

Onto the entrees, which on this night were as appealing as the appetizers. Of course, we had to order the calamari salad. This really deserves a paragraph of its own. It’s a whopping heap of frisse lettuce, a superb creamy dressing with a touch of chili oil, and fried calamari rolled in corn meal and cooked to perfection. We order it every time we eat at Baang. Everyone in town knows about it. It is, hands down, the best calamari salad you have ever had.


On the meatier side of things, we ordered spice-encrusted Szechuan lamb chops with wasabi mashed potatoes. The lamb chops were dainty and deliciously grilled, a perfect little portion of meat. The mashed potatoes came wrapped up in spring roles, making it easy to share and a fun twist that I had never seen before. Last, we enjoyed roasted magret of duck with an Asian pear salad and sweet potato gratin. Separately, these were all sweet and tasty things, but when combined, the taste was taken to a whole new level. Everything was truly phenomenal, and we had no problem finishing every last bit of food.

To finish off the meal, just two light desserts, my personal favorite, banana nut spring rolls, and a chocolate pagoda. The banana nut spring rolls from Baang are up there on my all-time “best desserts” list along with a chocolate lava cake I had in Paris. For my wedding cake, I want these things stacked in an enormous pile. The chocolate pagoda is also a faux-asian little charmer. The quality of the chocolate is very high and sure to satisfy the craving of any chocolate addict.

One warning I should give about Baang is that it gets very loud on weekend nights. Not just a din, but a commotion. They blast that techno music like you’re in a European Dance Club at 2:00 am. This can be fun for a large party, but bad for a date or gathering with older family members. It is also quite dark, so if you don’t see well, be prepared. Weekdays are much better for noise, and if you go early, as we did, you won’t have any problem. Lunch is also a great option if you want to skip the hubbub entirely.

To conclude, if you haven’t gone to Baang and you live in the area, you are missing out. The flavors are unique, savory and delicious. The price is a little high, but this is not the kind of stuff most of us can cook at home, so it is worth every penny. No need to head to the city for best fusion around, it’s right on the Post Road.


Baang Cafe and Restaurant
1191 East Putnam Avenue
Riversde CT, 06878
203-637-2114

Gratin Provencal

When I left France, I was sick of gratin. We ate it almost every night. It was very heavy on the béchamel, and often the vegetables involved were overcooked. But as time has passed, I have come to crave the gooey deliciousness that was the essence of this cheesy vegetable dish once more. It is definitely comfort food, and the way I make it, perhaps not the lightest. But every so often, preferably on a chilly night, it makes the perfect meal. There are many variations, but this is my recipe, and I think it is a pleasant concoction –not too heavy but still maintaining the integrity of a proper French gratin.

40 Minutes. Serves six as a side dish, four as a main dish.

Ingredients
• 5 Tablespoons Butter
• 2 Large Yellow Onions
• 4 Zucchini (or 2 Zucchini and 2 Yellow Squash), sliced into ¼ inch pieces, skin on
• 2 Tablespoons Flour
• 1 Tablespoon Salt
• 1 Tablespoon Fresh Black Pepper
• ¾ Cup Hot Milk
• 20 Cherry Tomatoes, halved
• ¾ Cup Grated Gruyere Cheese
• ½ Cup Bread Crumbs (preferably homemade)
• 2 Tablespoons Chopped Fresh Rosemary

Preheat oven to 400°

Slice onions into thin rings. Place in large, heavy pan (preferably cast-iron), and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes until soft and clear. Place zucchini in pan with onions and cook covered for about 10 minutes or until soft.

Add salt and pepper and cook another 2 minutes. Add flour and stir in so that it coats the zucchini and onions. Add the hot milk and let it thicken to a sauce-like consistency, about two minutes.

Pour mixture into an 8” by 10” backing dish. Add cherry tomatoes so that they are spread evenly on top of the zucchini and onion mixture. Coat dish with Gruyere cheese, chopped rosemary and breadcrumbs. Place in oven for about 20 minutes or until bubbling and brown. Serve immediately.


So there we have it. A simple dish that will bring back your childhood memories of France, or at least make you wish you had a French childhood. I wish I did, but I guess this is close enough.

StarChefs

It was my great fortune to attend the discussion between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White, moderated by Michael Ruhlman at the Third Annual Chefs Congress in New York. Hosted by Antoinette Bruno, the CEO of starchefs.com, the event is a showcase for chefs, people in the restaurant business, sommeliers and mixologists. One of the only events of its kind, the three-day gathering featured lectures, a products fair, cocktails and, to cap it off, a “rising stars” gala.

I happened to gain entry to this event after interning for a PR company that handled the press for StarChefs. Upon paying my dues for an hour at the press and sponsor check-in, I took off to explore the vast hall of culinary products, beer, wine and cheese. Slightly intimidated by the professional food crowd, I roamed from table to table, a taste of pate here, a sip of wine there.

My main goal was to see Anthony Bourdain, whose philosophy on food and life I greatly admire. After reading his books and watching “No Reservations,” I was eager to see him speak in person. It’s funny that Bourdain should have fans like me as he sees himself as a lucky bum who happened to be rocketed to stardom by Kitchen Confidential. But he does have fans, lots of them. They filled the stands for the most part to see him converse with Marco Pierre White, the original “bad boy” of the culinary world and smug in that persona.

The topic of the day was “The Role of the Chef.” The discussion began with the questions about who were true chefs today, and could they still name themselves as such if not behind the stove? So many famous chefs these days are more CEO’s than anything else, running 5, 10, 15 restaurants at once. Is it a positive or negative trend? Can they accept the Michelin stars if they themselves are not doing the culinary work?

Marco’s answer was decidedly “no.” He himself had given up his Michelin stars when he discontinued work in his kitchens. He stated that if he was eating at a restaurant with the chef’s name above the door, the chef should be there, that it was important to the integrity of the cuisine. Bourdain disagreed saying it was only reasonable that a 50-year-old man, a 35-year veteran of the kitchen should try to succeed in other ways. It wasn’t rational to expect an experienced chef to be garnishing every plate and searing every piece of salmon. It was the chef’s vision, his training and the ideas he represented that were important.

So then what is the role of a chef? Marco went on and on about inspiration. His self-righteousness in this was overpowering as he slumped in his chair speaking about his mother as his favorite chef and his disdain for multiple course meals–an attitude about which he was very clear even though Ruhlman pointed out that he had been an innovator in this type of cuisine and seemed to have forgotten his past.

Anthony on the other hand did not at all strike me as pretentious. He stated that the main role of a celebrity chef was to show the world what good could be taken from food as well as to put those who had gone astray back on the path of healthy, happy eating. The role of the celebrity chef is to lead away from junk food and towards the realm of fresh and forgotten ingredients. Nearly quoting directly from one of his essays in The Nasty Bits, he stated that the world was a better place after Emeril and especially Mario Batali (although not necessarily Sandra Lee). He and Marco did warn that if a young chef is getting into the business to be on TV, beware! It is for the love of the life of a chef and the food that one should enter the business and for no other reason.

Lastly they talked about where they thought food trends were headed after being prompted by members of the audience. Earlier they had made it very clear that the four-hour, multi-course tasting menu should be a thing of the past. They both despised dainty plates of food accompanied by instructions and disdained the snobbery of the atmosphere – unless, of course, the multiple courses were Sushi. Anthony stated that what he wanted was simple, well prepared food made from top-notch ingredients. Some pasta expertly sauced, a grilled fish on the bone, a roasted chicken. Marco agreed and stated again that he wanted one course, that’s it.

The discussion was amusing, and drew many a laugh from the audience throughout. Bourdain, as I had expected, was as handsome and charming in person as he is on the television. I found him eloquent and not at all pretentious, especially when seated next to White. Perhaps I shouldn’t be too harsh on Marco Pierre White. He is who he is and has been for a long time. Ruhlman, in his Tevas, was a good moderator and prompted well. It was an enjoyable event, and while the question “what is the role of a chef”, may not have been fully answered, it led to an interesting discussion.

I saw Anthony, Marco and Michael as the left the building. I could have gone up, praised their work, and asked for an autograph, but I couldn’t bring myself to it. Wouldn’t that make them the very people they hoped not to be? The celebrity followed by paparazzi, with their pictures up on Perez Hilton? No, these where chefs, and like myself, in it for the food. I took one last glance, and headed for the subway.

A Personal Favorite

As I was winding my way to a friend’s new apartment the other night, I passed a restaurant that I hadn't been to in a while, but greatly enjoyed in the past. I was very excited to find that this restaurant was right next door to my friend’s new home, and suggested that we dine there that very night. The friend agreed. I'm not going to give an elaborate account of our meal, as it was long and many glasses of wine were involved, but it was truly enjoyable, just as it had been during my previous visits.

The Japanese-run restaurant featuring Italian small plates is a tiny space on 10th Avenue between 1st and 2nd. It is situated on the lowest level of the building, with half of the restaurant below the sidewalk. I would say it could fit a max of twenty people and that would be tight. It is a dark romantic space with near-black wooden tables on one side, and a long high table that seats about 10 on the other. The decor is simple and creates a wonderful atmosphere in which to enjoy the aromas wafting from the nearby open kitchen.

The wine list has grown since my previous visit, as has the menu, which no longer comes on a clipboard. All of the dishes are fairly small and cost between $5-$15 dollars. Two people can eat about four dishes.

Just to give you an idea of what the food is like, we started with cured olives and a lovely fois gras on crostini. We then had a salad with beef carpaccio "swirls" filled with an herb mixture. Probably the best thing we tried was the scallop carpaccio that even the anti-scallop contingency at the table adored. Next came some terrific mussels in a red sauce and perfectly al dente squid-ink pasta. Finally, we scarfed down a dish of braised veal that was perfect in its fattiness. It was all washed down with a light and crisp Sancerre and a decent Pinot Noir.

One of my favorite places. The ambiance is killer, and the food, while not Michelin star worthy, is simple, delicious and fulfilling. I highly recommend it, but don't tell too many people, or we wont be able to get a seat!

Dieci
228 East 10th Street
New York, NY 10003
212-387-9545

BBQ or Bust?

Some restaurants just don’t quite make it. There are no huge complaints. The service is fine, the food edible, the décor acceptable, but they just don’t hit the mark. Nothing sincerely memorable, or worse, worth going back for. This is the way that I felt about Lookout Hill Smokehouse.

C had wanted to try the place for a while, so I obliged him, and we headed there one quiet Wednesday night. It was after work, and of course, we wanted a drink. One of the reasons C was interested in the place was the extensive bourbon selection, and he ordered one of the nicer options on the list. I ordered my usual glass of wine. The drinks came in jelly glasses. I repeat, jelly glasses. Now this is fine for water, but when you are paying $9 dollars each for a mediocre glass of wine and an expensive shot of bourbon, you want, at least, a vessel that complements the beverage.

On with the food. We decided to split everything so as to have the opportunity to try more. We began with a grilled chicken, hazelnut and apple salad on lamb’s ear lettuce, supposedly a dinner portion. It was petite to say the least. If I had ordered it for my entrée, at $12, I would not have been happy. The taste profile of apples and nuts was fine, but the chicken was dry and chewy.
Our entrée consisted of ribs and a side of macaroni and cheese. The ribs were decent, but once again, nothing amazing. They had a dry rub on them and were tender, but not even close to that falling-off-the-bone goodness that we would have relished. The mac-and-cheese was very creamy (much more so than I would make for myself), in fact, almost liquid between the noodles. However, it was savory and well seasoned, I give them that.

The atmosphere is an attempt at “southern,” I suppose, but not having spent much time down south, I couldn’t be sure. It’s comfortable enough, but the food just isn’t up to par. I might have been more sanguine if the tab had been in the $50 range, but no, ladies and gentlemen, our two meager drinks, appetizer, ribs and mac cost $72.

Save your money and go bbq elsewhere.


Lookout Hill Smokehouse
230 5th Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-399-2161

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of a Lunch Break 2.0

From Vanity Fair's "The New Establishment 2008" section on Miuccia Prada:

"Staff members at Prada's New York office are subject to termination if they eat lunch at their desk--unless there are extenuating circumstances."

See!!! I knew I was on the right track with that last post. Those Europeans really know what they're talking about. Perhaps thats why they're happier with their lives on average than Americans. Perhaps that's why they drink more on average and don't have nearly the same rates of alcoholism. It's all about enjoying the free time, leading a fulfilling life, and doing the things that you enjoy. Working hard is fine, its important, but its equally important to find the proper balance between work and play.

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of a Lunch Break

So I know it’s been a while since my last entry. I feel bad about this. I have been lazy. It’s time to get going. What has been going on in my life that I haven’t had time to update, you might ask? Work. Ah yes, the eternal struggle of mankind. I have been working in the city, commuting everyday to midtown. I get up, I get on the train, I pass out until I hit Grand Central Station. I work all day, with a very, I repeat very, short lunch break. I then work some more, and I go home. So after going home, I’m tired. And that my friends, is why I haven’t had much time to update. But this will change I tell you! From now on I promise, at least once a week.

I must say, one thing that really bothers me about my current position is the short lunch break. Everything else is fine, I’m learning a lot, I like the people, but where is the lunch break?! It’s half an hour, 30 minutes. It takes at least 12 to get out of my office, get in line somewhere, order, pay and eat. So that leaves me, oh, 18 minutes to eat. I am the only person I’m aware of who actually goes out to eat. Everyone else eats at their desk. I go out as a matter of principle. It is important that workers have time to take a break.

How can anyone expect anything to get done when an employee is glued to a desk for nine straight hours a day? The mind starts to wander. What will I eat for dinner tonight? Which train should I take? Should I go visit this friend or that friend? Have I called in my prescription? One needs time to think about these things. To function properly at work, bosses should encourage brief respites. They allow for more productive work during the course of the day.

Not to mention the food! Eating is important to me (I think we all know that by now), and I want to have adequate time to do it. Most cities, and New York especially, have great lunchtime choices, ready for the workers mealtime crush. Where have I been going lately? Hale and Hearty soups is a good place to grab a soup or salad. Lots of choices, fast, convenient, healthy. Prêt a Manger has some good stuff (pre-made wraps and sandwichs) and it always smells delicious when I go in for my morning coffee. I’m a big fan of Dishes, whose Asian noodle soup bowl is enough for both lunch and dinner. They also have a diverse breakfast spread. And then let’s not forget all those great places to get a deli sandwich, a slice of pizza, an omelet made. Hey, it’s New York City, you can get anything, and it will generally be pretty damn tasty.

So I take my lunch break. I defy the clock, and I go out. It may not be for long, it may not be anything exciting, but I go back into the office feeling revitalized and ready to be productive. If I were in charge, it would be for an hour, no two! I would encourage my staff to dine at the finest of establishments, Adour, Le Bernadin, Veritas, all on the corporate card! Ok, maybe that’s not quite realistic. But I would encourage at least a brief change of scenery, a break, a rest, so that everyone is happier and gets more done. All I ask is that I get my half-hour, without scrutiny, without judgment. It’s in the best interest of everyone.

Tapas for Summer Night

On a sweltering Tuesday night, C and I decided to grab a quick bite in the neighborhood (Park Slope). Originally, we had wanted to try Lookout Hill Smokehouse, but after viewing the extremely heavy and meat-filled menu, we decided to save that for a colder evening and find some more refreshing food. After walking in circles, we stopped at Tamari, a Japanese Sushi and Tapas restaurant. It wasn’t crowded, but still had a good number of people. The interior was a deep red and the walls hung with dubious Pollock-esque paintings

We order some Sake and found it was happy hour. The two-for-one drinks deal was a tremendous bargain, and the Sake was crisp and fruity. From the specials menu, we ordered a Scallop Salad. The shellfish were well seasoned and seared delicately. However, the salad could have been more creative than standard lettuce with tomatoes and carrots on the side.

Next came C’s spicy Cajun Tuna roll. The report was positive, the tuna firm and tasty.
After that a very interesting crunchy-fried octopus tapas, called Tako Tempura from the regular menu. A large, flavorful chunk of octopus, breaded and deep fried with a little salad and a creamy herb mayonnaise on top. I would go back for that.

Last up came a Cold Thai soup, the one low point of the meal. The broth was dull, I was turned-off by the cold mussels and the garnish was exactly the same as the Scallop Salad. Had it been a hot dish, perhaps I also wouldn’t have been as wary of the seafood.

It was a good little find, casual, cheap and tasty (although I’m not sure about the artwork). The tapas were the strong point on the menu, and next time, I would stick with them. Japanese aint always about Sushi and Tamari is proof of that.

Tamari – 201 5th Avenue (between Union and Berkeley) 718-230-5636
Happy Sake Hour – Saturday and Sunday from 4:00-8:00

Californa-Style Mexican in Brooklyn

Like California style burritos and tasty tacos? Check out Rachel’s Taqueria and La Taqueria in Park Slope, Brooklyn. La Taqueria is a small, mostly take-out type joint. With bright murals on the walls, a bar at the back and quick service, it’s a fun place to grab a quick Mexican bite. Rachel’s Taqueria on 5th Ave was recently converted to more of a sit-down restaurant. The service is good as are the Margaritas. Rachel’s has a nice back-yard seating area, perfect for sunny days and warm nights. Both places have the same menu with all your classic burrito and taco options. The ingredients are fresh and tasty and the prices reasonable. Particularly good is the mole chicken and the shrimp tacos.



La Taqueria – 74th Ave, Brooklyn – 718-398-4300
Rachel’s Taqueria – 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn

A Nice Meal at Nice Matin

Had a pleasant lunch at Nice Matin on 79th and Amsterdam last Wednesday after the Columbia graduation. The menu made a good attempt at being “Nicois” and did as well as one could expect at a hopping lunch joint on the Upper West Side.

I started with a pistou vegetable soup. It was very tasty with the vegetables cooked right (not too mushy) and a nice strong basil and garlic flavor. Next came a crabmeat salad. Very generous portion but no dressing in sight. I had to ask for oil and vinegar. The flatbread pizza report was very positive from others at the table. C complained that his Croque-Madame had the wrong texture, my Martini wasn’t very dirty and I didn’t like the bare light bulbs trying to imitate some sort of French Ferris wheel décor.

Besides these complaints, a very agreeable place for a casual lunch for business or pleasure.

Nice Matin: 201 West 79th Street, Manhattan, NY

Blue Ribbon Sushi: We Have a Winner.

When someone names their restaurant, “Blue Ribbon Sushi,” it better be really good--first class, first prize. Fortunately, in the case of the aforementioned restaurant, it lives up to its name. I’ve only been there once, and at a place with two restaurants, a sushi bar and a raw bar as well as an extremely comprehensive kitchen menu, it’s difficult to come to solid conclusions. But so far, so good.

C and I ate at the sushi restaurant around 8:30 on a Friday. While it was busy, we had no trouble getting a table. The restaurant is done up in dark woods with small tables accommodating no more than four or five at most. On one side are four sushi chefs diligently working away.

We were seated in the “couples row” along with several other pairs on dates. While a little tight, it was comfortable enough and allowed for a good view of the restaurant.

The appetizer menu was very long but had some interesting selections. After several minutes of back and forth deliberation, we finally chose two. First came an octopus carpaccio cut from what seemed a very large animal. It tasted fresh and came in a flavorful, mustard-like sauce. Next came homemade pork dumplings that were very fresh and tasty. There were five of them, of the smaller variety as opposed to the larger, crescent-shaped dumplings found at some places.

For our main course we ordered three rolls to share. First off came a lovely eel, radish sprout and avocado role. The eel was very sweet, a tasty bite indeed. Next up, a spicy scallop roll that I found sub-par. The scallops were mushy and unpleasant. They didn’t taste fresh. The last roll was spicy blue crab, which was substantially better. None of that fake crab-roll junk. This was the real deal.

For dessert, C and I split a very rich flourless chocolate tart with three scoops of green tea ice cream. It was a good thing we split it, because it was difficult to finish (and it’s not usually tough for us to sail through a multi-course meal). The ice cream was really the highlight of this dessert, even for one who doesn’t normally like the cliché that is green tea ice cream.

Blue Ribbon Sushi will most assuredly be getting another visit from me. Noted as the best Sushi restaurant in Brooklyn and conveniently located right around the corner from C, it may, in fact, be getting many visits. Next time I will try the raw bar as the sashimi, shellfish and other raw goods come highly recommended. So much to try, so little time.

Blue Ribbon Sushi - 278 5th Avenue (bet. 1st Street and Garfield Place), Brooklyn

Balance in BA

Going on a recommendation from a friend who had visited Buenos Aires, my parents and I went to Juana M’s for dinner one night in search of a relaxed and easy meal after a busy day of sightseeing; no big ordeal. Located at the top of “Micro Centro,” almost into Retiro, Juana M provided the perfect atmosphere for a tranquil dinner. It was a relaxed setting for discussion and debate, sharing a bottle of wine and enjoying some carné. The patrons were almost entirely Argentine and represented the comfortable upper class who live in the area.

The restaurant is located in the basement of a building, and after passing through the long, narrow front of the restaurant, the main dining room is surprising deep and large. The walls, tables and chairs are painted white. Contemporary art is hung throughout the entire restaurant and provides an interesting view from any seat. One candle adorns each table making for the perfect glow.

As in the majority of Argentine restaurants, the main attraction at Juana M is beef, and that is what we ordered. We began with a regular chorizo and a plate of mollejas (sweetbreads). The chorizo was decent, but I tend to like something a little less dry and a bit fattier. The mollejas were very well cooked, although they needed a little salt and lemon to set them off. For a main course we ordered one Lomo and one Bife de Chorizo. Both were excellent cuts perfectly cooked and tender.

One of the major things that sets Juana M apart is the tremendous salad bar. While most parillas will give you a mediocre salad to accompany your meal, Juana M offers a huge mix and match selection with any dish over 30 pesos. Aubergine, three different kinds of coleslaw, baby spinach, tomatoes, cucumber salad, beans--a veggie lover’s fantasy in a meat-eaters world. Well prepared and fresh, the salad bar was a welcome accompaniment to the delicious beef.

With a good wine list and decent prices, Juana M is a great setting for elegant yet casual dining. The romantic lighting sets off the white walls and furniture, and you won’t hear English at every other table like at some parillas I know. Juana M is recommended for all eaters in Buenos Aires. The ideal balance has been found.

Travels

Hi Everyone!

Sorry its been a while since my last post. I've been on the road for the last month and haven't had a moment to write. It was a great trip; Cordoba to Salta, over the Andes to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Then down to Santiago, over to Mendoza and back to BA. Then the parents came to visit and it was tour guide time in the city followed by Cusco, Macchu Picchu and Lima for the day. Now I'm back in the states and have lots of free time to catch up. There is so much to share; Northern Argentine Locro, markets full of tripe, goat asado, delicious pasta in Cusco and the best Ceviche that Lima has to offer. Plus more carné! I will also be talking more about our local Greenwich/NYC restaurant scene now that I'm back at home.

Thats all for now, Sophy

Dear Osaka,

I anticipated visiting your Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Palermo Hollywood for months. I had heard rave reviews from several friends and was expecting one of my best meals in BA. Maybe because of these enormously high expectations I was disappointed. The pedestal upon which I had placed you was undeserved, and while I had a decent meal, it was certainly not deserving of the absolute praise so many have afforded you.

C and I had a 10:00 reservation and the place was hopping. People were moving in and out, and I think by the end of the meal, we had sat through about two table turnovers. The menu was enormous (literally), very awkward to look at sitting at the small table. Didn’t you test these? It had many items from sushi to tirrados, tapas to entrees, and we had no idea how much to order. I had a couple ideas of what I wanted, so we asked our waiter in broken Spanish how much would be appropriate. We settled on two sushi rolls, two tapas, and a ½ portion of two different kinds of tirrados. The waiter indicated that would be sufficient.

The first course arrived (not long after we ordered), little scallops in a sweet mustard sauce with crunchy bits of potato (?). This was probably the best dish of the meal. The presentation in large white spoons was lovely, and it was very good, although a bit over-salted. However, it did seem a bit large for a tapa, which is traditionally one or two bites and something to snack on. The idea of the large tapas (not “regular” tapas) was confirmed when our Thai shrimp arrived two bites into the scallops. It was huge! And it looked more like a shrimp stir-fry one would order at a Chinese restaurant instead of the elegant dish I had expected. It tasted okay, but not any better than the shrimp takeout my dad brings home from Oriental Gourmet.

The next dishes, the two sushi rolls and the two plates of Tirrado, came in rapid-fire succession. Our table was packed; there was no time between courses, no clearing of tables, no time to digest. This was probably the thing that irked me the most about your restaurant. I like to enjoy a meal, each element, take it slow and drink my wine. It was also embarrassing having so many plates on the table. We certainly did not know what we were getting into when we ordered.

As for the rest of the food, the Dos Salmons sushi was decent, but no better than at your average New York sushi joint. I suppose sushi is still a new phenomenon in Buenos Aires, something you have yet to perfect. Much of the sushi menu also included the words “tempura” and “Philadelphia” which shows the level of adventurousness in the average porteno sushi diet. The other roll, which was shrimp with Parmesan cheese on top was definitely off. The flavor profile was all wrong, cheese and sushi to do not mix! C despised this dish.

The Tirrados were decent, the sauces tasty and the fish fresh, but any Japanese person who saw that sauce diminishing the flavor of the fish would have thrown a conniption! , Mango on salmon may have been where you tried to work the Peruvian element in, but it didn’t really seem too Peruvian to me. Maybe I would have been better of trying the ceviche. It was really the only element where I saw anything Peruvian mentioned.

Well Osaka, I’m afraid the meal wasn’t all I expected it to be. While some might be awed by the rolls with big names and the giant (literally) menu, the food just didn’t show, and things were not as neatly pulled together as they should be at a restaurant with those prices. Luckily I was in good company, and we were able to joke about the seven plates piled on our table.

Sincerely, Sophy

Casa Felix

All over Buenos Aires, Casa Cerradas, or “closed door” restaurants, are popping up to meet the need for a more personal dining experience. I was lucky enough to try one of these restaurants, “Casa Felix,” with C the other night while he was visiting. The restaurant is pescadarian, meaning no meat, and most of the meals are vegetable based. I was interested to try this drastic diversion from standard Argentine fare.

From the exterior, “Casa Felix” appears to be a normal house in the residential barrio of Almagro. The inside presents a fine and intimate dining experience. Before dinner the owner/cook Diego and his girlfriend/hostess Sandra gave us a tour of the whitewashed rooms and the lovely back garden. Diego grows his own indigenous herbs and emphasizes them in his cuisine. He had us smell and taste various plants he would be using in the dinner that night.

After drinking some Clerico in the back garden, we were escorted to the side patio where six little tables with white linens and candles were set – very romantic. Sandra handed us little menus on artisan paper as well as the handwritten wine list. It had some very interesting selections of whites, reds and bubblies, and we chose a bio-dynamically grown Torrontes from Salta. While waiting for the “botanic,” delicious homemade bread was served with what looked like an olive tapenade. Upon tasting, it turned out to be a terrific lentil spread that I could not stop myself from eating…until the first course.


And what a lovely first course it was! Halibut Tirado over Bolivian lime and burrito causa. A little swirl of halibut with a sweet pepper sauce, Peruvian mashed potatoes, and the sour burrito sauce on the bottom. The sweetness of the pepper with the sour lime and burrito was the highlight. All of the ingredients complemented each other fantastically, and I scooped up every last bit. The next course was called Sopa Paraguay, accompanied by an iris salad with lemon verbena dressing. The Sopa Paraguay was actually a moist corn cake topped with a peach salad. It was very well cooked, not dry and brittle like so many breads made with corn.

In between the first two courses, we were served a melon ice. It was not particularly exciting, and I think something more interesting could have been created. The main course, however, was a vegetarian’s dream. Organic ricotta and Portobello stuffed pepper, black rice, and homemade tomato sauce. Onereally couldn’t have put together a tastier vegetarian meal–and hearty enough to satisfy the most diehard carnivore. Even C, who disdains vegetarianism, was impressed. The dinner ended on a bit lower note with a rather bland cookie and ice cream. I was still impressed with the other dishes and did not let this get in the way of my enjoyment of the meal on the whole.

In the middle of a city filled with mediocre nouvelle cuisine, a lot of meat, bland vegetarian and boring Italian, Casa Felix presents a new outlook on Argentine cuisine. The three staff members were very gracious, explained all of the dishes, and made us feel comfortable and relaxed. Using fresh and organic ingredients, Diego Felix creates a memorable dining experience in his lovely home.