Tapas for Summer Night

On a sweltering Tuesday night, C and I decided to grab a quick bite in the neighborhood (Park Slope). Originally, we had wanted to try Lookout Hill Smokehouse, but after viewing the extremely heavy and meat-filled menu, we decided to save that for a colder evening and find some more refreshing food. After walking in circles, we stopped at Tamari, a Japanese Sushi and Tapas restaurant. It wasn’t crowded, but still had a good number of people. The interior was a deep red and the walls hung with dubious Pollock-esque paintings

We order some Sake and found it was happy hour. The two-for-one drinks deal was a tremendous bargain, and the Sake was crisp and fruity. From the specials menu, we ordered a Scallop Salad. The shellfish were well seasoned and seared delicately. However, the salad could have been more creative than standard lettuce with tomatoes and carrots on the side.

Next came C’s spicy Cajun Tuna roll. The report was positive, the tuna firm and tasty.
After that a very interesting crunchy-fried octopus tapas, called Tako Tempura from the regular menu. A large, flavorful chunk of octopus, breaded and deep fried with a little salad and a creamy herb mayonnaise on top. I would go back for that.

Last up came a Cold Thai soup, the one low point of the meal. The broth was dull, I was turned-off by the cold mussels and the garnish was exactly the same as the Scallop Salad. Had it been a hot dish, perhaps I also wouldn’t have been as wary of the seafood.

It was a good little find, casual, cheap and tasty (although I’m not sure about the artwork). The tapas were the strong point on the menu, and next time, I would stick with them. Japanese aint always about Sushi and Tamari is proof of that.

Tamari – 201 5th Avenue (between Union and Berkeley) 718-230-5636
Happy Sake Hour – Saturday and Sunday from 4:00-8:00

Californa-Style Mexican in Brooklyn

Like California style burritos and tasty tacos? Check out Rachel’s Taqueria and La Taqueria in Park Slope, Brooklyn. La Taqueria is a small, mostly take-out type joint. With bright murals on the walls, a bar at the back and quick service, it’s a fun place to grab a quick Mexican bite. Rachel’s Taqueria on 5th Ave was recently converted to more of a sit-down restaurant. The service is good as are the Margaritas. Rachel’s has a nice back-yard seating area, perfect for sunny days and warm nights. Both places have the same menu with all your classic burrito and taco options. The ingredients are fresh and tasty and the prices reasonable. Particularly good is the mole chicken and the shrimp tacos.



La Taqueria – 74th Ave, Brooklyn – 718-398-4300
Rachel’s Taqueria – 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn

A Nice Meal at Nice Matin

Had a pleasant lunch at Nice Matin on 79th and Amsterdam last Wednesday after the Columbia graduation. The menu made a good attempt at being “Nicois” and did as well as one could expect at a hopping lunch joint on the Upper West Side.

I started with a pistou vegetable soup. It was very tasty with the vegetables cooked right (not too mushy) and a nice strong basil and garlic flavor. Next came a crabmeat salad. Very generous portion but no dressing in sight. I had to ask for oil and vinegar. The flatbread pizza report was very positive from others at the table. C complained that his Croque-Madame had the wrong texture, my Martini wasn’t very dirty and I didn’t like the bare light bulbs trying to imitate some sort of French Ferris wheel décor.

Besides these complaints, a very agreeable place for a casual lunch for business or pleasure.

Nice Matin: 201 West 79th Street, Manhattan, NY

Blue Ribbon Sushi: We Have a Winner.

When someone names their restaurant, “Blue Ribbon Sushi,” it better be really good--first class, first prize. Fortunately, in the case of the aforementioned restaurant, it lives up to its name. I’ve only been there once, and at a place with two restaurants, a sushi bar and a raw bar as well as an extremely comprehensive kitchen menu, it’s difficult to come to solid conclusions. But so far, so good.

C and I ate at the sushi restaurant around 8:30 on a Friday. While it was busy, we had no trouble getting a table. The restaurant is done up in dark woods with small tables accommodating no more than four or five at most. On one side are four sushi chefs diligently working away.

We were seated in the “couples row” along with several other pairs on dates. While a little tight, it was comfortable enough and allowed for a good view of the restaurant.

The appetizer menu was very long but had some interesting selections. After several minutes of back and forth deliberation, we finally chose two. First came an octopus carpaccio cut from what seemed a very large animal. It tasted fresh and came in a flavorful, mustard-like sauce. Next came homemade pork dumplings that were very fresh and tasty. There were five of them, of the smaller variety as opposed to the larger, crescent-shaped dumplings found at some places.

For our main course we ordered three rolls to share. First off came a lovely eel, radish sprout and avocado role. The eel was very sweet, a tasty bite indeed. Next up, a spicy scallop roll that I found sub-par. The scallops were mushy and unpleasant. They didn’t taste fresh. The last roll was spicy blue crab, which was substantially better. None of that fake crab-roll junk. This was the real deal.

For dessert, C and I split a very rich flourless chocolate tart with three scoops of green tea ice cream. It was a good thing we split it, because it was difficult to finish (and it’s not usually tough for us to sail through a multi-course meal). The ice cream was really the highlight of this dessert, even for one who doesn’t normally like the cliché that is green tea ice cream.

Blue Ribbon Sushi will most assuredly be getting another visit from me. Noted as the best Sushi restaurant in Brooklyn and conveniently located right around the corner from C, it may, in fact, be getting many visits. Next time I will try the raw bar as the sashimi, shellfish and other raw goods come highly recommended. So much to try, so little time.

Blue Ribbon Sushi - 278 5th Avenue (bet. 1st Street and Garfield Place), Brooklyn

Balance in BA

Going on a recommendation from a friend who had visited Buenos Aires, my parents and I went to Juana M’s for dinner one night in search of a relaxed and easy meal after a busy day of sightseeing; no big ordeal. Located at the top of “Micro Centro,” almost into Retiro, Juana M provided the perfect atmosphere for a tranquil dinner. It was a relaxed setting for discussion and debate, sharing a bottle of wine and enjoying some carné. The patrons were almost entirely Argentine and represented the comfortable upper class who live in the area.

The restaurant is located in the basement of a building, and after passing through the long, narrow front of the restaurant, the main dining room is surprising deep and large. The walls, tables and chairs are painted white. Contemporary art is hung throughout the entire restaurant and provides an interesting view from any seat. One candle adorns each table making for the perfect glow.

As in the majority of Argentine restaurants, the main attraction at Juana M is beef, and that is what we ordered. We began with a regular chorizo and a plate of mollejas (sweetbreads). The chorizo was decent, but I tend to like something a little less dry and a bit fattier. The mollejas were very well cooked, although they needed a little salt and lemon to set them off. For a main course we ordered one Lomo and one Bife de Chorizo. Both were excellent cuts perfectly cooked and tender.

One of the major things that sets Juana M apart is the tremendous salad bar. While most parillas will give you a mediocre salad to accompany your meal, Juana M offers a huge mix and match selection with any dish over 30 pesos. Aubergine, three different kinds of coleslaw, baby spinach, tomatoes, cucumber salad, beans--a veggie lover’s fantasy in a meat-eaters world. Well prepared and fresh, the salad bar was a welcome accompaniment to the delicious beef.

With a good wine list and decent prices, Juana M is a great setting for elegant yet casual dining. The romantic lighting sets off the white walls and furniture, and you won’t hear English at every other table like at some parillas I know. Juana M is recommended for all eaters in Buenos Aires. The ideal balance has been found.

Travels

Hi Everyone!

Sorry its been a while since my last post. I've been on the road for the last month and haven't had a moment to write. It was a great trip; Cordoba to Salta, over the Andes to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Then down to Santiago, over to Mendoza and back to BA. Then the parents came to visit and it was tour guide time in the city followed by Cusco, Macchu Picchu and Lima for the day. Now I'm back in the states and have lots of free time to catch up. There is so much to share; Northern Argentine Locro, markets full of tripe, goat asado, delicious pasta in Cusco and the best Ceviche that Lima has to offer. Plus more carné! I will also be talking more about our local Greenwich/NYC restaurant scene now that I'm back at home.

Thats all for now, Sophy

Dear Osaka,

I anticipated visiting your Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Palermo Hollywood for months. I had heard rave reviews from several friends and was expecting one of my best meals in BA. Maybe because of these enormously high expectations I was disappointed. The pedestal upon which I had placed you was undeserved, and while I had a decent meal, it was certainly not deserving of the absolute praise so many have afforded you.

C and I had a 10:00 reservation and the place was hopping. People were moving in and out, and I think by the end of the meal, we had sat through about two table turnovers. The menu was enormous (literally), very awkward to look at sitting at the small table. Didn’t you test these? It had many items from sushi to tirrados, tapas to entrees, and we had no idea how much to order. I had a couple ideas of what I wanted, so we asked our waiter in broken Spanish how much would be appropriate. We settled on two sushi rolls, two tapas, and a ½ portion of two different kinds of tirrados. The waiter indicated that would be sufficient.

The first course arrived (not long after we ordered), little scallops in a sweet mustard sauce with crunchy bits of potato (?). This was probably the best dish of the meal. The presentation in large white spoons was lovely, and it was very good, although a bit over-salted. However, it did seem a bit large for a tapa, which is traditionally one or two bites and something to snack on. The idea of the large tapas (not “regular” tapas) was confirmed when our Thai shrimp arrived two bites into the scallops. It was huge! And it looked more like a shrimp stir-fry one would order at a Chinese restaurant instead of the elegant dish I had expected. It tasted okay, but not any better than the shrimp takeout my dad brings home from Oriental Gourmet.

The next dishes, the two sushi rolls and the two plates of Tirrado, came in rapid-fire succession. Our table was packed; there was no time between courses, no clearing of tables, no time to digest. This was probably the thing that irked me the most about your restaurant. I like to enjoy a meal, each element, take it slow and drink my wine. It was also embarrassing having so many plates on the table. We certainly did not know what we were getting into when we ordered.

As for the rest of the food, the Dos Salmons sushi was decent, but no better than at your average New York sushi joint. I suppose sushi is still a new phenomenon in Buenos Aires, something you have yet to perfect. Much of the sushi menu also included the words “tempura” and “Philadelphia” which shows the level of adventurousness in the average porteno sushi diet. The other roll, which was shrimp with Parmesan cheese on top was definitely off. The flavor profile was all wrong, cheese and sushi to do not mix! C despised this dish.

The Tirrados were decent, the sauces tasty and the fish fresh, but any Japanese person who saw that sauce diminishing the flavor of the fish would have thrown a conniption! , Mango on salmon may have been where you tried to work the Peruvian element in, but it didn’t really seem too Peruvian to me. Maybe I would have been better of trying the ceviche. It was really the only element where I saw anything Peruvian mentioned.

Well Osaka, I’m afraid the meal wasn’t all I expected it to be. While some might be awed by the rolls with big names and the giant (literally) menu, the food just didn’t show, and things were not as neatly pulled together as they should be at a restaurant with those prices. Luckily I was in good company, and we were able to joke about the seven plates piled on our table.

Sincerely, Sophy

Casa Felix

All over Buenos Aires, Casa Cerradas, or “closed door” restaurants, are popping up to meet the need for a more personal dining experience. I was lucky enough to try one of these restaurants, “Casa Felix,” with C the other night while he was visiting. The restaurant is pescadarian, meaning no meat, and most of the meals are vegetable based. I was interested to try this drastic diversion from standard Argentine fare.

From the exterior, “Casa Felix” appears to be a normal house in the residential barrio of Almagro. The inside presents a fine and intimate dining experience. Before dinner the owner/cook Diego and his girlfriend/hostess Sandra gave us a tour of the whitewashed rooms and the lovely back garden. Diego grows his own indigenous herbs and emphasizes them in his cuisine. He had us smell and taste various plants he would be using in the dinner that night.

After drinking some Clerico in the back garden, we were escorted to the side patio where six little tables with white linens and candles were set – very romantic. Sandra handed us little menus on artisan paper as well as the handwritten wine list. It had some very interesting selections of whites, reds and bubblies, and we chose a bio-dynamically grown Torrontes from Salta. While waiting for the “botanic,” delicious homemade bread was served with what looked like an olive tapenade. Upon tasting, it turned out to be a terrific lentil spread that I could not stop myself from eating…until the first course.


And what a lovely first course it was! Halibut Tirado over Bolivian lime and burrito causa. A little swirl of halibut with a sweet pepper sauce, Peruvian mashed potatoes, and the sour burrito sauce on the bottom. The sweetness of the pepper with the sour lime and burrito was the highlight. All of the ingredients complemented each other fantastically, and I scooped up every last bit. The next course was called Sopa Paraguay, accompanied by an iris salad with lemon verbena dressing. The Sopa Paraguay was actually a moist corn cake topped with a peach salad. It was very well cooked, not dry and brittle like so many breads made with corn.

In between the first two courses, we were served a melon ice. It was not particularly exciting, and I think something more interesting could have been created. The main course, however, was a vegetarian’s dream. Organic ricotta and Portobello stuffed pepper, black rice, and homemade tomato sauce. Onereally couldn’t have put together a tastier vegetarian meal–and hearty enough to satisfy the most diehard carnivore. Even C, who disdains vegetarianism, was impressed. The dinner ended on a bit lower note with a rather bland cookie and ice cream. I was still impressed with the other dishes and did not let this get in the way of my enjoyment of the meal on the whole.

In the middle of a city filled with mediocre nouvelle cuisine, a lot of meat, bland vegetarian and boring Italian, Casa Felix presents a new outlook on Argentine cuisine. The three staff members were very gracious, explained all of the dishes, and made us feel comfortable and relaxed. Using fresh and organic ingredients, Diego Felix creates a memorable dining experience in his lovely home.

Gran Bar Danzon: Creativity at Last!

To my left sat two alternative American girls struggling with the wine list. To my right, a group of expensively dressed debutantes and one boy with a very fake tan. Gran Bar Danzon is listed in the Lonely Planet Guide book, so there are many English speakers there, but this did not detract too much from the hip atmosphere and interesting menu.

Situated on the second floor of a two-story building in Recoleta, the restaurant emanates a chic, minimalist style with concrete walls, candles and a long dark bar. One side of the restaurant is dedicated to lounging, while the other is reserved for eating. On one wall is a massive display of wine bottles kept in temperature-controlled cases, a physical representation of the extensive Argentine wine list.

The very wine-savvy host showed us to our table and asked if we needed help with the wine list. We ended up choosing a Cabernet Sauvignon called Kaiken at about AR$55. He tried to push us a little higher for a better quality wine, but, alas, we could not afford it. The wine we chose was fine, but for those on a bigger budget, Gran Bar Danzon offers many options from more familiar blends such as Malbec, to the less well known such as the wine Torrontes of Salta. After tackling the wine list, we dug into the menu.

The left side of the menu is dominated by sushi and sashimi. I do not trust Sushi at non-Japanese restaurants, and it appeared to me that this was an addition to keep up with the BA sushi trend rather than a true passion (a must in a good sushi chef). The chef’s attention was obviously focused on the contemporary cuisine options on the right side. In fact, it is one of the most creative menus I have seen in Buenos Aires, and for this I give the chef much credit. The choice was a tough one, but S and I finally made some decisions.

To start, I had a very good lamb duo. The first part was a lamb carpaccio rolled around cream cheese. I am usually not a fan of cream cheese unless on a bagel, and perhaps a different cheese could have been substituted for a more refined offering, but it was well presented and tasted good. The second part was a miniature rack of lamb, well seasoned and cooked, and served with some delicious new potatoes. S had a ceviche of king crab and salmon (?), very good with a strong dose of cilantro. I would definitely order that again. Another interesting appetizer was the pork and vegetable spring rolls. I didn’t try them but they sure looked tasty.

For a main course, S and I split the rabbit ravioli with ricotta emulsion. I must say, while acceptable, I was a somewhat disappointed with this dish. The emulsion didn’t have much flavor and didn’t add substance to the dish. The rabbit filling tasted good, but it could have used some cheese, as it was rather dry. The other main that looked very appealing to me was the pork loin stuffed with morsilla. They always do meat well here in Argentina, so next time I would lean towards that.

For dessert, S and I split a homemade brioche that sandwiched homemade dulce de leche. It was topped with passion fruit and coffee ice cream--very sweet and satisfying, although the coffee ice cream was a bit thick. In all, it was a good end to a tasty meal.

The ambiance at Gran Bar Danzon is terrific, prices are reasonable for the food served, and the wine list is extraordinary. Best of all, the menu provides truly interesting options in a city known for repetitive menus.

Chinatown BsAs: A Welcome Respite From All-Night Clubs and Too Much Carné

Many Argentines aren’t wild about Chinese people. It’s a fact. While they won’t admit this when questioned, they think their markets are rip-offs and that they serve dog meat in their restaurants. They believe the Chinese are taking over the world and that their mannerisms are unfriendly and standoffish. Now I’m positive not all Argentines think like this, many are open, educated and understanding. But people have said these things to me directly, and to my anthropology-trained ears, I’m rather discomfited. This ethnocentrism and lack of empathy for the immigrant making his or her way in a foreign land seems strange coming from a population comprised of immigrants. Despite the prejudice, a small, vibrant Chinatown has managed to spring up in Buenos Aires. It is not specifically “Chinatown,” but a mélange of the different Asian ethnicities--Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Laotian, etc.

Located directly behind the Barracas de Belgrano TBA train station, Chinatown is relatively small, covering about three blocks of Arribenos. It’s obvious you’ve arrived by the change in faces and language when you arrive. The three-block area contains about 20 little Chinese knick-knack stores carrying the same things you would see in San Francisco or New York Chinatown--paper fans, golden cat banks, herbal balms, cheap little tea sets and much more. It is fun to browse a couple, but generally, if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ‘em all.

Also located in Chinatown are several Chinese markets. Two of them are vast, warehouse-like structures with all of the regular Argentine basics plus Chinese products such as noodles, hot sauces, soy sauces, curries and other Asian-influenced items. They are not much to look at and smell a bit off, but the products are quite cheap, and you can find some respectable bargains. The more posh Chinese grocery, Casa China, is a very pleasant place to visit. It aims for more of a diverse Argentine crowd as opposed to just the local population.

Casa China is great for finding products you can never find in a normal Argentine grocery store. Some of the fine purchases I have made include tofu, delectably spicy garlic hot sauce, rice noodles, oatmeal cookies and lentils, as well as beans and peas that come from bins and are sold by the pound. Casa China also carries some American lines such as Paul Newman’s and has a wide variety of teas. Another great buy there are the cheap sushi rolls! Sushi is expensive in Buenos Aires, but decent rolls of tuna and Philadelphia, salmon and ginger, crab and avocado, to name a few, can be purchased for eight pesos and under. While not the best sushi, it is certainly a bargain that does satisfy a sushi craving.

Scattered amongst these shops and grocery stores are a fair number of Chinese and Asian restaurants. I have been to two, but I have dined at one, Los Palitos, three times now. I’ve had my fair share of American-style Chinese food (which this is), and I wouldn’t put it in my top three list. It does, however, serve a tasty, hearty meal and presents a terrific dining diversion from your typical Buenos Aires night out.

The décor is simple, plastic and wood tables, dark red and cream walls, some various bamboo pieces and reviews hung here and there. The restaurant usually has a good crowd, and sometimes it’s a ten-minute wait or so before you get a table. But they move quickly. Asian people eat there a lot, which is always good sign in my book. The staff is not the friendliest, and there are usually only two waiters. One is a middle-aged woman, abrupt, with a scowl on her face. The other is a man in his late 20’s who speaks some English and looked bored most of the time. It’s all part of the experience.

For starters, there are various dumplings and spring rolls. I would recommend the spring rolls; they’re fried and crispy and taste yummy dipped in duck sauce. The dumplings are fine, but rather bland. There are many main courses ranging from noodles, soups, noodle-soups, chicken, pork, seafood, beef and vegetables. One sure-fire vegetarian bet is the chop suey. A mix of bok choy, bean sprouts, peanuts and “?,” it is never overcooked and is a great break from the Argentine all-meat diet. Another good dish is the chicken with peanuts. The chicken is covered in a flavorful brown sauce with a healthy helping of nuts to make it crunchy, but it’s not spicy in the least as was indicated on the menu, a bit of a disappointment.

One thing that is deliciously spicy is the beef and noodle soup. This is my favorite offering, and one bowl can easily feed two people. The beef falls to pieces when you pick it up, and the broth is spicy, while a bit of grease from the meat makes it savory. It has plenty of noodles and veggies as well--very satisfying and not to be missed.

An appetizer, water, beer and two main dishes will cost you about $30-$40 pesos at Los Palitos. You will be stuffed if you finish it all.

Also located in Chinatown is BuddhaBA, which is supposed to be a very good Sushi and Asian cuisine spot, located in a beautiful old red and white house. Dashi Sushi is supposed to be a good place to get decent sushi as well, if you don’t mind spending the big bucks. I’ve also heard good things about Green Bamboo, a vegetarian restaurant, if you want a break from carné.

A visit to Chinatown is a great way to pass a Buenos Aires night when you’re not in the mood to dance ‘til dawn. You can cover it all in one evening, and there are some fun and interesting purchases to be made. Sometimes I go there just for the grocery store. The Asian population has set up a nice little home base here in Buenos Aires. Even with all of the adversity they face, they have managed to thrive and even bring tourism to their little area in Belgrano.

Don Julio: Brick Walls and Good Beef

Had a lovely dinner at one of Buenos Aires' fine parilla establishments.On this occasion, I brought five study abroad kids out for their first taste of true Argentine beef. When I had heard the night before that they had been here for a whole week (!!!) and not sampled any of the famed cuisine, I was shocked. It was blasphemy in my book. I insisted that we would go out for dinner the following night, and that I would pick the restaurant and the food. So, after rolling out of bed around 4:00 PM , I hopped on my computer and did a little research on the Guia Oleo (BsAs restaurant guide).

I chose Don Julio for several reasons. First off, it had positive reviews and this is always important. Secondly, the prices seemed reasonable, not too cheap but not too expensive. The pictures also suggested a pleasant atmosphere, and it was walking distance from my apartment to boot. All encouraging factors to create a memorable meal.

Don Julio is located on the corner of Gurruchuga and Guatemala. It is a pleasant restaurant, well lit and with a charming ambiance. The tables are all covered in rawhide; the walls are of exposed brick. The lights hang a bit brightly from wagon wheels on the ceiling. It has an upstairs dining balcony as well as a "smoking" back room. As you walk in, there is a lovely parilla to the right where you can see all of the meats being prepared.

I arrived on time (as I always do, usually to my chagrin) at 9:30 PM, and had about twenty minutes to peruse the menu until the rest of the party showed up. There was a lovely wine list with many good selections, mostly expensive, but several affordable bottles. I ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sorilla ($45AR) and passed a pleasant 15 minutes sipping the smooth wine and enjoying my surroundings. I was also able to take a long look at the menu–-all of the typical parilla food as well as several very nice looking salads and a main menu with options from salmon to chicken to lamb.

When the rest of party finally arrived, I went to work ordering what I thought to be the most typical parilla cuisine. We started off with one chorizo per person and three morsilla to share. The chorizo was not the best I have ever had. It was cut off a larger portion and not as juicy as I would have liked ($7AR each). It was decent, however, and I think everyone enjoyed it. The chimichuri accompaniments were also quite spicy and flavorful. The morsilla on the other hand was very smooth and tasty and the portions were very generous ($14 AR each). There wasn’t any gristle, and it had a good helping of yellow raisins. I was surprised that everyone ate as much of it as they did and very proud as well.

We had about half an hour between courses, which is something that I always enjoy. We ordered another bottle of Malbec, although I can’t remember the name. The waiter was very attentive and even changed our glasses between bottles, a nice touch, although not completely necessary. It was a welcome rest period. Everyone was getting a little full from the sausage, and it gave us a chance to breath and digest.

Finally the main meat arrived. The portions were not as big as I had thought they would be, but they were the perfect amount for us. The Lomo was very satisfying, grilled tenderly a punto with a lovely consistency ($32AR). The Caudrito de Caudrill was tasty but had a lot of fat on it ($25AR). In fact, half of my portion was straight lard (but I did get the end piece). The Bife de Chorizo had a lovely flavaor but was a bit on the raw side ($32AR). We also had one of the better caprese salads I have had in BsAs, nice dressing and lots of fresh mozzarella.

In all, I had a very commendable experience at Don Julio. I wouldn’t say it was the finest food I have ever eaten, but it was very good. What this parilla really has going for it is the ambiance. It wasn’t too loud or dark, just very relaxing and pleasant. The service was also very good, and the waiter was always there when we needed him. I would recommend this parilla for a fun, relaxing and reasonable night out.

Don Julio: Guatemala 4691 esq. Gurruchuga 4831-9564 for reservations

Who Wants Helaaadooo?

On my way down to Argentina, the last thing that I expected was good ice cream. No one told me about this phenomenon, and when I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was shocked to see an ice cream joint on every corner. Now I like ice cream in the States; it's good on occasion, but I never make an event of going out to get the frozen treat. There is generally no revelatory moment, sitting around at home when I think, “Yes, I am going to leave the comfort of my home for the sole purpose of ice cream.” Here, however, it’s a fairly frequent occurence.

I’m going to stop using the term “ice cream” from here on out when referring to this Argentine frozen confection. Its helado, pronounced “elado” (silent H). In fact, its not really much like the stuff we get at home, Haagen Daaz, Ben and Jerry’s, etc. It's much more like Italian gelato, which makes sense since Argentina has a very strong Italian roots. Now, what is the difference between helado and ice cream you might ask? Well, helado is made with whole milk whereas ice cream is made with, you guessed it, cream. Helado also has eggs, resulting in a denser, creamier treat with less fat (3%-6% as opposed to 11%-15%). It is also served at a lower temperature, making it easier to scoop but less drippy because of all the eggs. I personally prefer helado to ice cream. It has a more intense flavor, and you don’t feel quite as guilty about eating it.

It is important to go to an artisanal Heladeria. These places generally produce their helado on the premises with fresh ingredients and have anywhere from 20 to 50 flavors. At least eight are usually Dulce de Leche flavors, my personal favorite. For those who don't know, Dulce de Leche is a very sticky caramel-like substance made by boiling down milk and sugar for long periods of time. Good Dulce de Leche helado isn’t too sweet and has a bit of a smoky flavor. You can get Dulce de Leche with chocolate bits, brownie, almonds and other little chunks of goodness mixed in. There is also usually a very large selection of chocolate and fruit flavors, which can be hit or miss depending on the location. Sambayon, Tiramisu and Panna Cotta are some other interesting options to try. It is also very important that you get more than one flavor. No Argentine would ever be satisfied with just one. There are many combinations that work, but it's generally a personal preference. I like Dulce de Leche con Brownie y Frambuesa (raspberry). Coconut and Chocolate are also a good combo.

What Heladeria is the best in Bs As is a big topic of debate. My personal favorite is Fratello, closest to my apartment at Plaza Guemes. It has a huge selection, and whatever I get is always good. They are very friendly and attentive, and you can sit at the café for as long as you please. I have also tried Munchi’s and Freddo (chains), but I generally stick to my neighborhood joint. The BEST helado I ever had, however, was down in Bariloche at a place called Jauja, famous throughout Argentine for having just that, the BEST. Their fruit flavors were phenomenal as they operate in the middle of berry-land. The chocolate was also amazing, thick, rich and a very good late-night snack.

In conclusion, if you come to Argentina, try the helado. I guarantee if you try it the first night, it will be hard to stay away for the rest of your trip.

For more info, go to:

http://www.heladeriafratello.com/

http://www.freddo.com/

http://www.heladosjauja.com/

P.S. Helado can be ordered in many different serving sizes. The little cones usually range from $5-$7AR. They then move into little cups $7-$9AR, and then to "termicos," big containers that keep helado cold for a bit, so you can take it home and keep it in your freezer. These go from 1/4 kilo at around $10AR to 1 kilo at $35AR. Enjoy!

I Got Maaaad Status

Status: My Peruvian Obsession

There is always a line outside one of my favorite BA haunts: Status. It's a good sign if ever I have seen one. Normally at any restaurants where there would be a line, I would call up and try and make a reservation, but Status is not one of “those” types of restaurants. It is a local spot, and Peruvians, Argentines and tourists alike flock to this big, well-lit restaurant to chow down some traditional home-cooked Peruvian fare.

I first went to Status with my roommate Sarah. Her reviews were already rave. She had “discovered” the place in the Lonely Planet guide before she became broke and unable to eat out on a regular basis. But Status remained on her list of restaurants even after she ran low on discretionery income, because it is cheap–-cheap and delicious.

Each meal starts out with fresh bread and some sort of intensely spicy green concoction. I’m not exactly sure what it is. All I know is that I love to scoop it onto my bread until my mouth and nostrils are burning. After that, the menu is full of enticing, if not slightly confusing, options. The first time I was there, I was so overwhelmed that I simply pointed to what the man next to me had and asked for that in my broken Spanish. It turned out to be a good decision, a mixture of fish, clams and squid in a delectable cream-colored sauce ($22AR). Perfectly seasoned, as their food always is, I had trouble finishing it.

A classic standby at Status, and what Sarah always orders, is the fried steak with vegetables and beans in a sweet brown sauce. The portions are huge, and it always hits the spot. I am usually seen at the end of the meal embarrassingly spooning the leftover onions into my mouth. This dish can also be combined with potatoes if one is in the mood to indulge a carb craving. The only miss I have ever had at Status was the chicken tamale ($9AR). While still quite edible, it came out a bit cold and was rather bland. It lacked the perfect seasoning that I had come to expect from Status. The side salad of cold onions in vinegar and herbs, however, is delectable. Another recommendation is the Pollo “Estofado,” a very nice leg of chicken with rice in another heavenly brown sauce ($16AR).

One last thing not to be missed at Status are the Pisco Sours. The national drink of Peru and Chile, yet rarely found in Argentina, the Pisco Sour is a powerful kickoff to your meal. With a good two shots of alcohol, whipped egg whites, soda and lemon, it will really get your appetite going. Follow that with a bottle from the very affordable and decent wine list, and you will be set for a night on the town.

Status: Virrey Cevallos 178, Congreso, Buenos Aires

Emotional Hunger

Lately, I have been feeling emotionally hungry. It's not a physical hunger. I have no pain in my stomach, and I am not faint as I walk around the city. No, it's in my head. Lately I have been trying to read up on the contemporary food world. When I return home, I plan to somehow break into the business! But to do this, I must be knowledgeable. Looking at all of the pictures, reading all of the restaurant reviews, menus and blogs is taking its toll. As I scroll through page after page on the World Wide Web, my mouth waters as I swoon over Michellin-starred menus.

It's not that the food in Buenos Aires isn’t good, it's just that I’m too broke to eat at any of the good restaurants. They don’t offer the same variety on all price levels that they do in New York. Occasionally I go to some cheap joints I know for Peruvian or Chinese food, but it's not the lovely, fanciful, creative food that makes my pulse race.

Argentine food tends to be a little on the boring side. Their idea of spicy is a bit of black pepper. I have to dump a whole load of their hot sauce onto a meal to even get the slightest hint of fire in my mouth. It is also difficult to find fresh herbs, spices, peppers and good condiments, unless you are willing to spend a fortune. At home, I can go out and get everything in under two or three stop–-meat, fish, herbs, you name it. Here it would take many more, and I wouldn’t know where to begin.

Honestly, it wouldn’t take the finest restaurant in New York City to satisfy my cravings. It would take the good, down-home Connecticut food I am used to. The Delis that I grew up taking for granted, some Garden Catering or some Pizza Post. How it would please me to hit up Meli-Melo for a midweek lunch or a light dinner with a choice bottle of wine. The soup, the crepes, the salads. Or then again, maybe some wings from Mackenzie’s or some baked ziti from Athens. I would eat it all. That would certainly satisfy my emotional hunger.