Cross-posted from me at Sustainable Table's blog, The Daily Table...

Kids and nutrition has been a very popular topic in the news. The Bancroft Elementary School students have been helping Michelle Obama in the White House organic garden, and the first lady has been very vocal about getting more healthy foods into the USDA’s Child Nutrition programs. Sites such as School Lunch Talk and Better School Food are spreading the word about the unhealthy food kids are served in school and what action can be taken. Slow Food USA just launched the “Time For Lunch: National Day of Action” campaign to fight for “real food” in schools. On top of all this, a new movie, “What’s On Your Plate” explores food, nutrition, and our modern food system from two eleven year old girls’ points of view.

On a summer vacation to Ohio, Sadie and Safiyah taste the best cherry tomato of their young lives, which leads them to ask, “Where did this come from”? Sadie’s mother, the film’s director, asks them if they want to meet the farmer who grew it, and so their journey begins. Back home in New York, they question the processed food they see in grocery stores and try to figure out “What exactly is a Funyun”? They join a CSA, visit farmers’ markets and speak with friends about their dietary habits and what can be done to improve their health.

Along the way, the two girls meet up with food activists, chefs, authors and teachers to explore the depths of America’s food system. The advisory council to the film reads like a roster of major players in the sustainable food movement: Anna Lappé, Dan Barber, Raj Patel, Alice Waters, Michael Pollan, plus many more. The girls meet with food activist Kate Adamick, who takes them to the supermarket where they take a look at the ingredients labels on supposedly “healthy food.”

According to director Catherine Gund, “Kids need to know the full benefits of local food: more energy-efficient production, more prosperous farmers, healthier communities, longer lasting and better tasting fruits and veggies. Kids need to know that their food doesn’t only come from the supermarket or the factory, but from nearby farms, trees and the ground. Adults need to be empowered to share this information with the next generation.”

If you feel this way too, take your kids to a screening! For New Yorkers, there is a free screening in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene Park this Saturday, June 27th as well as one at the BAM cinemas on July 7th.

For other screenings around the country, check out the fabulous “What’s On Your Plate” site. They have an interactive map, animation clips, information on the advisory board and much more. You can watch the trailer there, or click here.

Matsugen

The host was late in seating us. Our 8:30 reservation was backed up to 9:15 and we were left to entertain ourselves consuming specialty cocktails (light on the hooch, not too hard on the wallet). Not to worry, Matsugen kept us content with free appetizers - spicy edamame and chicken meatballs - piquant and savory. We passed our time gossiping at the long and slender bar until we were lead to a four-top deep within the cavernous depths of the restaurant.

Four of us had set out to this shrine to soba on a blustery Friday night looking for a reprieve from the daily grind that offered a touch of class but a reasonable price tag. The class was present, clean lines and simplicity, concrete floors, and blooms piled high on the end of the sushi bar. The vast space was full (but not cluttered) with dark tables of all shapes and sizes. The lighting was dim and serene, and a group of Japanese girls chatting in the corner provided the soundtrack.

After much deliberation, we decided on an appetizer and soba each, not a bad bargain for one of Jean-George Vongerichten’s superior eateries. One of my fellow diners tried the uni in yuzu jelly, and was turned off by the texture. I got past it however and was pleased by the salty, rich flavor of the dish. The serving of silken tofu was enormous, clean tasting, and rustic. The kumomoto oysters were at their best - petite, unfettered, lush.

The giant bowls of soba-noodles arrived on wooden faux-cafeteria trays. The scent wafting from the bowl was comforting, and the broth luxuriant and rich. The noodles were cut with precision and tasted distinctly of buckwheat. They were not sloppy and bland like so many soba noodles, but earthy-sharp. I lingered over that bowl, and rebuffed the server several times when he tried to take it away. The mushrooms bobbing in my bowl provided the perfect counterpoint to the noodles and my neighbors duck was toothsome and tender. This was a dish that would have been just as comfortable sold out of a street-cart in Japan as it was in the snazzy New York dining scene.

We finished with a molten-chocolate cake, cliché but well executed, and were also presented with a sorbet sampler, another benefit of our late seating. Fig, pear, and plum all tasted right off the branch. The restaurant was nearly empty when we finished; a light sizzle could be heard from the tabletop grill close-by grill. I would declare this meal a victory – agreeably long, reasonably priced and plenty of perks. A most satisfying soba experience on a cold night.

Matsugen
241 Church St, New York, NY‎
(212) 925-0202‎

Lidia Makes Me Wish I Was Italian

I came home from New York on Sunday exhausted by a late night and by the miserable rainy weather. I fell asleep on the couch with the soothing sounds of Jacques Pepin in the background and awoke again to Lidia, just starting to work away in her kitchen on Channel 13.

I've been into Italian food lately, Northern Italian in particular, just like the rest of the world. But I prefer to think it’s my own discovery, like I’m the only one who eats at Al Di La and has dreams of slow-cooked onions and anchovies. So I was happy to see Lidia, at ease in her kitchen, cooking with her granddaughter on that dreary Sunday afternoon.

That day she was making hand rolled Makaruni in a simple rich mushroom sauce she recalled from her childhood in Istria, Italy. That show made me wish my family was Italian. Then I would know dishes like this from my childhood. I would call my grandmother Nonni, and we would have hand-gestured all over the place.

I tried making that dish for my American mother and me. I couldn’t get the Chanterelles the recipe called for, but made due with Cremini and Shitake. The pasta was simple to make using the Cuisinart. I had to fuss with the water and flour a bit but quickly got it to the right texture. The sauce took a bit longer to make then I expected, but I’m sure it would be faster the second time around. The smell wafting from the pot was earthy, mushroomy deliciousness seasoned by the concentrated tomato paste and sage.

I would call it a success. I might cook the noodles a bit longer next time but it was certainly a hearty, home-cooked meal. Click here for the recipe and enjoy. Thanks Lidia!

Stamford: Eat at the Restaurants, Avoid the Nightlife

For a long time I’ve stayed away from downtown Stamford. The thought of Hula Hank’s and the Thirsty Turtle have kept me far away. Girls in skin-tight tube tops sporting dangly butterfly belly-button rings, and guys with greasy spiked hair, diamond studs and wife-beaters have kept me at bay. I usually only venture in for the occasional movie or to drop something at my dad’s office, but in the last month or so I have sampled several of the downtown restaurants and have been surprisingly impressed.

We celebrated the farewell of a friend about a month again at Napa & Co, a year-old restaurant in the Marriot Courtyard. While exorbitantly priced for the hotel and the neighborhood, the food was impressive. In particular, my farrow, mushroom, and poached egg appetizer was delicious, flavors melding together to form a rich, creamy dish. The roasted Brussels sprouts were also a pleasant surprise. My father’s gnocchi was fluffy and tender with the help of some ricotta cheese. The menu changes nightly, and while I didn’t try it, the cheese selection was impressive. Service could have been ramped up a notch considering the tab, but it was polite and attentive enough.

We slipped in for a quick meal at Telluride about two weeks ago before seeing Slumdog Millionaire at the Avon Theatre across the street (a great place to see a movie by the way, lots of old-world charm). While I wasn’t there for long, the décor was pleasant, the service attentive and my pasta dish quite tasty. A hearty combination of penne, goat cheese, roasted red peppers in garlic was much better than I had expected. They also have an array of oysters which my grandmother took advantage of. (Don’t order the corn chowder, it tasted like it came out of a can.) Important to note is that both Napa & Co and Telluride shop at sustainable retailers and use organic meat, something that earns them major points in my book.

Last week we had a lovely pre-Valentines day meal at Duo, taking advantage of their free oyster night (again, my grandmother loves oysters). I’ve eaten at Duo before (it’s below my father’s office) and always had a very satisfying experience. The oysters were fresh, garnished in three different ways. I had sushi, and asked the manager to prepare whatever was freshest. I tried Uni for the first time, and found it quite delicious. My grandmother’s duck “duo” was excellent in both forms (sliced breast and cannelloni confit), as was my mother’s lamb (two chubby chops cooked to perfection, accompanied by couscous and root vegetables in a reduction sauce). Definitely a restaurant worth checking out, and they have great deals and specials. Get on their e-mail list.

So, while Stamford after eleven may not be my scene, it’s not a bad place to go for a casual meal or a classy night out. The downtown renovation along with the addition of U-Conn Stamford has been successful in drawing a variety of bars and eateries to the area. But instead of taking shots at Black Bear or hopping on the swing at Hula Hank’s, have a sustainable bite to eat and catch a classic at the Avon instead.

Napa & Co
75 Broad Street
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 353-3319

Telluride
245 Bedford St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 357-7679

Duo
25 Bank St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 252-2233

What I Think About Picky Eaters

I hate picky eaters. There, I said it. I was trying to figure out a more tactful way to state it, but that’s what came out. They really bother me with their, “I don’t like asparagus”, “I can’t stand scallops” and, “I only eat white food”. Or even worse is when someone says “gross!”. Just because YOU don’t like it, doesn’t make it gross. It means that you are afraid to try things, and therefore are missing out on many of the great pleasures in life, like blood-sausage.

And where does picky eating stem from? My theory: parents. It’s those parents who say, “Well we’re having pork loin, but little Billy just throws up at the sight of pork, so I’ll just make him a hot-dog and some Doritos”. I love parents who feed their kid whatever they’re eating, and too bad if they don’t like it. It’s one of the first questions I finagle into the conversation when I meet parents; it helps me judge them.

I don’t care if you don’t like a particular food, but you must try it, and more than once for that matter! Trying a Brussels sprout in third grade doesn’t count. You have to try it roasted, with lots of butter, now. I include bizarre meat products in this must-try policy as well. People all over the world eat all sorts of strange cuts and entrails all the time and love them! In America so much goes to waste. Bring me the tripe, the sweetbreads, the liver! When my beloved grandfather was ill, all he wanted were tongue sandwiches, and that is one of the many reasons I respected him so much.

So please, when you encounter something you’re afraid to eat, have courage in the fact that it probably won’t kill you and you might even enjoy it. Who knows, your new favorite snack could even be a bug.

New Year, New Parties

Dinner parties seem to be the theme of the last couple of months – they’ve certainly been my theme anyway. We’ve been trying to save money (or at least pretend like we’re saving money) by going to the grocery store and cooking in. Of course by the time we’re through, we’ve spent at least $60 bucks on various cuts of meat, herbs, veggies at the specialty food store and then more money for wine. It does feel less guilty than spending $100 on a mediocre meal at a restaurant, and you may have leftovers!

About a month ago it was a steak and potatoes night in Brooklyn, updated steak and potatoes that is. Recipes provided by Fine Cooking, of course, and wine from the lovely shop on 5th in Park Slope, Red, White and Bubbly. We started with a white bean and artichoke dip, easily blended in the Cuisinart. Then it was on to an herb-marinated steak, which sat overnight in olive oil, kosher salt, pepper, fresh rosemary and thyme and then was grilled on the indoor cast-iron behemoth in Cliff’s kitchen. For a side, we had the very successful smashed potatoes, a mix between mashed and fried potatoes, especially popular with the male contingent. To finish, waffle-iron chocolate chip/oatmeal cookies. A very easy dinner, satisfying and fun to share with a few friends.

Another night’s dinner was a bit more complicated. Our aspirations were higher as we had the whole evening to cook, and Cliff’s parents’ giant kitchen to do so in. We slacked on hors d’oevres, just veggies and dip. For the main course, I tried something I’d seen in the “Roasting” special edition that Fine Cooking had just put out, Chorizo and Apple stuffed Pork Roast. I’d never stuffed anything like that before, and we had quite the adventure getting the chorizo inside the pork. For the side, we served a shallot and Gruyere potato gratin that even our French “amie” praised. For dessert, my hero Jacques Pepin’s Cuisinart almond cake, an easy crowd pleaser.

On other nights, there have been braises, a perfect winter meal and an east way to transform a cheaper cut of meat! We’ve also gone back to our old standby, baked mac and cheese with broccoli, as well as Roast Chicken à la Alice Waters. So now that I’ve made so many dinners, I’m just waiting for my pals to reciprocate. Cooking at home is an easy and amusing way to spend a cold night indoors, catch up with friends, and save a little money at the same time.


Smashed Potatoes

Apple and Chorizo Stuff Pork

Waffle Iron Oatmeal-Chocolate Chip Cookies

Al Di La Sings (Cheesy, I know)

I feel bad that I have neglected to write about Al Di La. I’ve eaten there twice, and the two meals that I had there were some of the most satisfying that I can recently recall. The food is not typical Italian, it is not meatballs and spaghetti, or gourmet pizza, or even comparable to other high end trattorias in which I have dined. It is Venetian, in my humble opinion one of the most heartfelt and comforting cuisines in the western world. The flavors hold a certain depth that suggests tradition and patience. The natural “goût” is coaxed out of each ingredient, allowing each to shine, and at the same time melding in perfect harmony.

Eating at Al Di La reminds me of the wonderful, and entirely too short time that I spent in Venice during the winter of 2006. Using the wonderful French travel guide, Guide de Routard, we strayed immediately away from tourist traps and into the back allies of Venice. In particular, I remember a meal of simple spaghetti with the small clams they fish from the bay, cuttlefish, and the perfect amount of fresh tomato sauce. It also reminds me of the braised rabbit in a back alley restaurant, found without the help of a guidebook, but through the joys of wandering. There was also a bottle of wine, whose cork smelled of cocoa.

Al Di La’s menu changes on a frequent basis and always has interesting, variable specials. One of the most memorable dishes was a chickpea and grilled octopus salad, which was charred and devoured in seconds. The pastas are always unique and homemade, two excellent examples being the ravioli we red beets and ricotta, smothered in butter and poppy seeds, and the Swiss chard and ricotta gnocchi with brown butter and sage, which melts delicately in your mouth. I’ve also enjoyed the braised rabbit with olives and polenta, even if the rabbit was slightly dry.

So if you get a chance, go stand in line for dinner at Al Di La. Or to avoid the invariable line, go for lunch, at 10 pm, or check out the wine bar, which I think I will be sampling this weekend. Order a bottle of wine, check out the shabby-chic décor of various chandeliers, kitsch wallpaper and oversized art, and enjoy an acutely pleasurable dining experience.

Al Di La Trattoria
248 5th Ave.
718 636-8888‎
Reservations not available

Stone Park Café

Dined at Stone Park Café today for the second time this month. Both times I sat at the same table, and both meals were equally enjoyable. What stands out most at Stone Park is the freshness and quality of both the produce and the meat . The vegetables are minimally tampered with, allowing the clean flavors to stand out. The protein is showcased through simple preparation and generous portions. The menu also has an equally appealing number of fish and meat dishes, which makes for nice variety and balance.

Last time I visited, several weeks ago with a small party of friends and friends' parents, we were there for dinner. The atmosphere was cool and relaxed with fish prints on the wall and brown paper on the tables. I can’t keep track of everything that was served, but I do recall that my Brussels sprouts salad with goat cheese and duck confit was crunchy and the uncooked Brussels sprouts a real treat. Cliff’s steak tartar was also a very interesting concoction served with a Worcestershire jelly, something I had never encountered before. My main course, tilefish, another first, was light and buttery, yet satisifying.

At brunch today, Stone Park was transformed into the most happening brunch joint in Park Slope. Thank God they take reservations for tables of six or more, otherwise it would have been a very long wait. My bluefish cakes with poached eggs, caper hollandaise and celery root slaw was a great take on the original, and I finished every bite. The short rib hash with eggs was also a hit, along with the biscuits and gravy, a dish rarely seen on the New York scene. The side of pommes frites was devoured by all. My Bloody Mary was good and spicy, which I appreciate, as they aren’t all so. My mom's Bellini was a little dull, the peach juice was apparently not cold, and brought the temperature of the sparkling wine down to a not-so-refreshing temperature.


Stone Park has thus far been consistent in quality. My only real complaint was the loud classic hip-hop music during brunch. I couldn’t hear a thing (some people actually like to converse over a good meal) and not everyone particularly enjoys that genre of music. They were also out of the chicken that my mom ordered at brunch, but failed to tell her until very shortly before our meal was served. She made another choice though, and the problem was quickly resolved.

To Tarry or Not to Tarry?

My 90-year-old grandmother first brought to my attention the recent opening of Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich’s new restaurant in Port Chester, the Tarry Lodge. What was once a rundown, run-of-the-mill, windowless Italian joint has been transformed into the green, bright, chic eatery serving up the well known restaurateurs’ Italian fair.

As she was the one to make the discovery, my grandmother took us there for dinner on an average Wednesday night. My expectations were high. I had read a lot about the Batali/Bastianich team but had never been to one of their restaurants. Most reviews for their other enterprises had been rave, but perhaps my expectations shouldn’t have been so towering for a Port Chester restaurant with mid-range prices. It’s not New York City, after all.

The reservation was tough to get, but we finally snagged a 7:00 slot after several attempts. The place was packed, people crowded around the entrance, noise spilled from the many rooms and frantic hosts ran in all directions. There are two dining rooms downstairs, one larger bar room and another smaller room straight through the entrance. We got a table in the upstairs dining room, hoping it would be quieter.

The second level proved to be nearly as loud, but with less of the hustle and bustle. We were seated at a pleasant corner table and handed enormous single-page menus. I don’t really understand the purpose of such a large, obtrusive sheet of paper. You can’t set it on the table, and the only place it fits is on your lap where, if you’re my height, it comes up to your chin. Why not a smaller, more manageable menu that you’re not in a hurry to get rid of?

After some serious analysis and questions for our waitress about some unfamiliar terms, we made our decisions and placed our order. The knowledgeable sommelier also gave us some help with the vast Italian wine list. Upon his recommendation, we selected a Sardinian red, which was light in body with subtle red fruit. It was a crowd-pleasing recommendation.

While we drank our wine and waited for appetizers, one element that you could not help but notice was the blaring 80’s soundtrack pounding from unseen speakers all around. The choice of music was absurd (think along the lines of Talk Talk’s “It’s My Life” and believe me that was the best of it). The tunes were totally incongruous with the vibe and food of the restaurant. It’s as if they had chosen the music in total disregard of all other elements; the décor, the clientele, the food, the location. Obtrusive to the point of being annoying, we finally asked the sommelier to turn it down, and he graciously accommodated us. After that, we could at least converse. On to the food …

appetizers materialized promptly. I ordered the octopus with baby potatoes that I had been eyeing on the restaurant’s website. I have to say, I love octopus and was a bit disappointed. There was almost too much octopus, cut in large chunks drowned in dressing. It was overly oily and without any defining flavor. Another appetizer ordered was grilled shrimp with pickled watermelon, an interesting combination, but could have been refined. My dad ordered a bowl of faro with charred corn and some sort of fresh cheese, which was probably the best of the dishes. My mother had the new “it” meat, speck, which was paper thin and delicious. It could have used some sort of accompaniment as it was served solo on a sheet of paper like it just came from the deli slicer.

Our bread plates (and by the way, the bread was fantastic) were taken when the appetizers came, but I later saw a family sharing their appetizers. This would have been the way to go, as the aforementioned dishes were a bit overwhelming. However, there was no way to predict individual serving quantities, and sharing wasn’t suggested.

On to the main courses. My father had the squid ink pasta with corn and lobster. It tasted fine, the pasta was cooked well, but it was nothing special. With those three ingredients, I really feel like something outstanding could be created. I had the gnocchi with braised oxtail. The gnocchi was very well prepared and extremely light, and the oxtail was cooked perfectly, but again, the flavors didn’t pop. My mom had the braised short rib, one of her favorite dishes. It was well seasoned although a little salty (even for a big salter like herself), but they skimped with only a trickle of polenta under the sizeable piece of meat. Winkie (Grandma) ordered eggplant parmesan, for what reason I cannot understand (she isn’t a vegetarian), and I think it was decent, but I didn’t hear any rave reviews coming from her side of the table.

So there ends my first encounter with the famed Italian-style restaurateurs. On the down side, the food was just okay. I had expected bolder, fresher flavors, something thrilling to the palate. I knew the food would be rustic, and not too technical, but it just didn’t quite make it. After so much care and attention to the décor and service, the food and its “visual” presentation were a step down.

On the positive side, the restaurant is beautiful, ochre walls and large windows with marble sills. The servers were very knowledgeable and attentive without being pushy. And the prices were reasonable, at least for the Fairfield/Westchester/NYC area.

Although my first visit wasn’t the awesome experience I had hoped for, I would definitely give the Tarry Lodge another shot. The menu is large and varied, and perhaps we ordered wrong. The pizza looked very appetizing. Who knows? Maybe that could be the standout item that keeps you coming back as it was with the original Tarry Lodge. With some refinement of ingredients and presentation, I think the Tarry Lodge may have the potential be a neighborhood hit.

I was just checking out Michael Ruhlman’s blog at http://blog.ruhlman.com/, when I came across an entry blasting the press release for Alain Ducasses’s new cookbook, Ducasse Made Simple by Sophie. As it happens, I was the one who translated the press release from French so that it could be sent out to the many editorial staffs around the country who just LOVE getting press release after press release.

So anyways, that’s exciting. Something I worked on getting blasted by the ever amusing, ever sarcastic, ever Teva-wearing Michael Ruhlman. I have to agree with him, the idea of simplifying Ducasse, who is difficult by nature, is slightly ridiculous. But hey, it wasn’t my idea, I just did the translation.

If you want to read what the blog said go to: The Fallacy of the Quick and Easy Cookbook @ http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/10/the-fallacy-of.html

Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Ate the other night at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope with Cliff, his sister Laura, and his parents, who were kind enough to treat us. Although Mr. H. was bummed about the future of the stock market and was on his Blackberry for much of the time, the food was still very fine indeed. Despites these uncertain times, the Brasserie did not seem to be hurting for business.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie is one of eight successful establishments owned by the Bromberg Brothers. Located directly next to its Sushi counterpart (reviewed below), Blue Ribbon, which opened in Brooklyn in 2001, maintains the high standard of quality that has come to be expected from the Brombergs.

The warm and bustling atmosphere with red walls, a large raw bar, banquettes and mirrors, is a pleasant place to enjoy some comfort food. Out waiter was very attentive and friendly, perhaps even a bit over-eager. We all drank wines by the glass, and my large pour of Tempranillo was pleasing to the palate.

To start, we shared four appetizers. Laura ordered the artichoke, which was classic and delicious with a lemon butter dip. The pirogues that I ordered were hearty and familiar, with some perfectly caramelized onions along side. I didn’t try the sardines, (I was a bit hung-over, but I usually love them), but they got rave reviews from the other diners. Lastly the chicken wings that Cliff ordered were fantastic and came with a little pot of fire to caramelize them on. At first we thought this was a gimmick, but once it got going, it actually put some tasty char on those wings!

For our main courses, Mr. H. and I ordered the duck confit, with an orange sauce and roasted potatoes. It was well cooked and I especially enjoyed the garlicky salad dressing that came on my little side of greens. However, the overall portion of duck was a bit small. Mrs. H. ordered the salmon with mashed potatoes, which she raved about. Laura had the fried chicken that was apparently tender and scrumptious, although she was too full to finish it off. Cliff was the most adventurous and ordered the pigeon (not squab, pigeon) and enjoyed his first encounter with this particular fowl. It was very rich in flavor, and I was proud of the boy who once lived continually on peanut butter sandwiches.

Even though we were all pretty “stuffed,” of course, we ordered dessert. We had one Chocolate Bruno, which is Blue Ribbon’s signature dish, and half portions of both the chocolate chip and Banana Walnut Bread Pudding. I loved the Banana Walnut Pudding because it reminded me of my favorite Baang desert, banana nut spring rolls. My dinner companions gobbled up the chocolate dishes, so we can safely assume they enjoyed them!

It was a very cheering dinner in these not so cheerful times, even if the bill was probably a bit steep. There is something on the menu for everyone, from the youngest to the eldest patron. Diverse, upscale comfort food for all, Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope is most definitely a winner.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie
278 5th Avenue (between 1st and Garfield)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-840-0408
Reservations are accepted for five or more.

Birth-Day Par-Tay

Birthday Dinner

I wasn’t going to have a birthday party. I hate when people obsess over their birthdays, so this year I thought I’d just let it pass by. Of course there was the obligatory family dinner, heretofore described, and maybe I’d go out with the boyfriend, but besides that, no party.

Then, suddenly, it was five days before the big day. People started asking, “What are you doing for your birthday?” and “Are you having a party, going to a bar?” Well I couldn’t say I was doing nothing now, could I? So, I sent out a desperate, last minute e-mail trying to wrangle as many people as I could. And then I started planning for the food.

The plan was to have a little shindig over at Cliff’s apartment, no big deal. There would be friends, drinks and lots of food. I decided on an all-appetizer theme. In case you didn’t know, making all appetizers is hard. Preparing lots of little things, as opposed to a few large items, is pretty labor-intensive. Next time I will keep this in mind.

Anyway, things turned out quite well. I made chicken sate, babaganoush with Lebanese flatbread, blinis with crème fraiche and smoked salmon, Stilton stuffed-mushrooms, and two pork tenderloins. We finished it all off with a delicious chocolate cake courtesy of Aux Delice. Several have asked for recipes, so I thought I’d post some of the good ones.

I don’t want to plagiarize, so I have to give a lot of the credit to the cookbook I used, (even though I’d like to say I made them all up). The book is Appetizers, Finger Good, Buffets & Parties, edited by Bridget Jones, and published by Hermes House. The book is generally clear, and the recipes went well for the most part, although some of the directions were a bit confusing. (A lemon-basil aioli dip went disastrously wrong.) Also, since I prefer to go a little free form sometimes, I made some modifications to the recipes

Chicken Saté

I have to say, this was the hit of the party. It went FAST. I doubled the recipe, and it was about enough for 7 people.

3 boneless chicken breasts
6-inch wooden skewers

For the marinade:
• 12 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 8 tablespoons soy sauce
• 8 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 3-inch piece fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped
• 6 garlic cloves
• 4 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 2 small fresh red chilies, seeded and chopped
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro


For the peanut sauce:
• 6 tablespoons peanut butter
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar


First, prepare the marinade by mixing all of the above ingredients in a bowl. A food processor is not necessary for this, just make sure you whisk it well.

Next, begin preparing the chicken by making sure all the excess fat is removed. Then slice the chicken into 1½-inch cubes. The easiest way to do this is cut it into about 4 strips length wise, and then cut crosswise.

Place the chicken and marinade in a plastic bag, making sure it’s tightly sealed, and place it in the refrigerator to marinate. If you have the time, leave it overnight. That is what I did and the flavors were powerful and clear.

For the peanut sauce, mix all of the ingredients together in a medium-sized bowl making sure it is well blended. You can adjust the sauce with more peanut butter, soy sauce or sugar depending on your preference. I like mine very peanut-y.

When you are getting ready to grill, skewer the chicken, about three pieces per stick. I used a large, two burner, cast iron grill, but you could use a regular outdoor grill or broiler.

If you are using an indoor grill as I did, turn the heat up very high and let the grill get hot before you start. Cook the chicken for about 2 minutes on each side, or until it is golden and cooked through. If you use the broiler, put them in for about 4-5 minutes on a cookie sheet lined with tin foil (to avoid a burned-on mess).

Place skewered chicken on a serving tray with the peanut sauce and enjoy!

Baang For My Birthday

A Greenwich favorite for over 12 years, Baang has still got it. I have eaten there many times and tried almost everything on the menu. Sometimes I even do takeout. The kitchen was particularly “on” last Thursday night, however, when we went to celebrate my big 2-3.

I met my family there around 6:00, early-bird time, as we were with my grandmother. We were the first ones there and got a nice round table with a booth. Baang is separated into two levels with a big open kitchen on the upper level. Up a couple steps and along one side is a long, curvy bar, and the room has high ceilings with over-arching mesh “sculptures”.

We started with some drinks, of course. I took a look at the “drink specials” menu (which I always do) and got a Passion-tini – a very fresh and satisfying passion fruit concoction made with vodka. Everyone else had Cosmos, which were perfectly pink and well blended. We then made the unanimous decision to start with a selection of appetizers since they are always amazing.

We ordered five in total. First up were the fantastic lobster crepes in a cream and plum wine sauce. They melt in your mouth, they are incredible, you must try them. That’s all I’ll say. Next up was a Baang classic, Fire Cracker Spring Rolls. They are very hot and come with a wasabi mustard dipping sauce that draws a searing fire through the nose, a good thing in my opinion.

We then tried three new items on the appetizer list: mushroom croquettes, a scallop gratin, and a salmon tartar. The mushroom croquettes had the earthy scent of wild mushroom and pleasing, soft inside and a crunchy exterior. The Scallop Gratin was gooey, hot and accompanied by asparagus. We all know I am a fan of gratin, and this was a unique twist on the traditional version. Our last selection was the true winner, salmon tartar on a tiny vegetable cake. We had six of them, and I was grudgingly allowed two since it was my birthday. The salmon was extremely fresh, and the little cake below resembled a crab cake, sans crab. I could happily eat the whole plate for lunch.

Onto the entrees, which on this night were as appealing as the appetizers. Of course, we had to order the calamari salad. This really deserves a paragraph of its own. It’s a whopping heap of frisse lettuce, a superb creamy dressing with a touch of chili oil, and fried calamari rolled in corn meal and cooked to perfection. We order it every time we eat at Baang. Everyone in town knows about it. It is, hands down, the best calamari salad you have ever had.


On the meatier side of things, we ordered spice-encrusted Szechuan lamb chops with wasabi mashed potatoes. The lamb chops were dainty and deliciously grilled, a perfect little portion of meat. The mashed potatoes came wrapped up in spring roles, making it easy to share and a fun twist that I had never seen before. Last, we enjoyed roasted magret of duck with an Asian pear salad and sweet potato gratin. Separately, these were all sweet and tasty things, but when combined, the taste was taken to a whole new level. Everything was truly phenomenal, and we had no problem finishing every last bit of food.

To finish off the meal, just two light desserts, my personal favorite, banana nut spring rolls, and a chocolate pagoda. The banana nut spring rolls from Baang are up there on my all-time “best desserts” list along with a chocolate lava cake I had in Paris. For my wedding cake, I want these things stacked in an enormous pile. The chocolate pagoda is also a faux-asian little charmer. The quality of the chocolate is very high and sure to satisfy the craving of any chocolate addict.

One warning I should give about Baang is that it gets very loud on weekend nights. Not just a din, but a commotion. They blast that techno music like you’re in a European Dance Club at 2:00 am. This can be fun for a large party, but bad for a date or gathering with older family members. It is also quite dark, so if you don’t see well, be prepared. Weekdays are much better for noise, and if you go early, as we did, you won’t have any problem. Lunch is also a great option if you want to skip the hubbub entirely.

To conclude, if you haven’t gone to Baang and you live in the area, you are missing out. The flavors are unique, savory and delicious. The price is a little high, but this is not the kind of stuff most of us can cook at home, so it is worth every penny. No need to head to the city for best fusion around, it’s right on the Post Road.


Baang Cafe and Restaurant
1191 East Putnam Avenue
Riversde CT, 06878
203-637-2114

Gratin Provencal

When I left France, I was sick of gratin. We ate it almost every night. It was very heavy on the béchamel, and often the vegetables involved were overcooked. But as time has passed, I have come to crave the gooey deliciousness that was the essence of this cheesy vegetable dish once more. It is definitely comfort food, and the way I make it, perhaps not the lightest. But every so often, preferably on a chilly night, it makes the perfect meal. There are many variations, but this is my recipe, and I think it is a pleasant concoction –not too heavy but still maintaining the integrity of a proper French gratin.

40 Minutes. Serves six as a side dish, four as a main dish.

Ingredients
• 5 Tablespoons Butter
• 2 Large Yellow Onions
• 4 Zucchini (or 2 Zucchini and 2 Yellow Squash), sliced into ¼ inch pieces, skin on
• 2 Tablespoons Flour
• 1 Tablespoon Salt
• 1 Tablespoon Fresh Black Pepper
• ¾ Cup Hot Milk
• 20 Cherry Tomatoes, halved
• ¾ Cup Grated Gruyere Cheese
• ½ Cup Bread Crumbs (preferably homemade)
• 2 Tablespoons Chopped Fresh Rosemary

Preheat oven to 400°

Slice onions into thin rings. Place in large, heavy pan (preferably cast-iron), and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes until soft and clear. Place zucchini in pan with onions and cook covered for about 10 minutes or until soft.

Add salt and pepper and cook another 2 minutes. Add flour and stir in so that it coats the zucchini and onions. Add the hot milk and let it thicken to a sauce-like consistency, about two minutes.

Pour mixture into an 8” by 10” backing dish. Add cherry tomatoes so that they are spread evenly on top of the zucchini and onion mixture. Coat dish with Gruyere cheese, chopped rosemary and breadcrumbs. Place in oven for about 20 minutes or until bubbling and brown. Serve immediately.


So there we have it. A simple dish that will bring back your childhood memories of France, or at least make you wish you had a French childhood. I wish I did, but I guess this is close enough.

StarChefs

It was my great fortune to attend the discussion between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White, moderated by Michael Ruhlman at the Third Annual Chefs Congress in New York. Hosted by Antoinette Bruno, the CEO of starchefs.com, the event is a showcase for chefs, people in the restaurant business, sommeliers and mixologists. One of the only events of its kind, the three-day gathering featured lectures, a products fair, cocktails and, to cap it off, a “rising stars” gala.

I happened to gain entry to this event after interning for a PR company that handled the press for StarChefs. Upon paying my dues for an hour at the press and sponsor check-in, I took off to explore the vast hall of culinary products, beer, wine and cheese. Slightly intimidated by the professional food crowd, I roamed from table to table, a taste of pate here, a sip of wine there.

My main goal was to see Anthony Bourdain, whose philosophy on food and life I greatly admire. After reading his books and watching “No Reservations,” I was eager to see him speak in person. It’s funny that Bourdain should have fans like me as he sees himself as a lucky bum who happened to be rocketed to stardom by Kitchen Confidential. But he does have fans, lots of them. They filled the stands for the most part to see him converse with Marco Pierre White, the original “bad boy” of the culinary world and smug in that persona.

The topic of the day was “The Role of the Chef.” The discussion began with the questions about who were true chefs today, and could they still name themselves as such if not behind the stove? So many famous chefs these days are more CEO’s than anything else, running 5, 10, 15 restaurants at once. Is it a positive or negative trend? Can they accept the Michelin stars if they themselves are not doing the culinary work?

Marco’s answer was decidedly “no.” He himself had given up his Michelin stars when he discontinued work in his kitchens. He stated that if he was eating at a restaurant with the chef’s name above the door, the chef should be there, that it was important to the integrity of the cuisine. Bourdain disagreed saying it was only reasonable that a 50-year-old man, a 35-year veteran of the kitchen should try to succeed in other ways. It wasn’t rational to expect an experienced chef to be garnishing every plate and searing every piece of salmon. It was the chef’s vision, his training and the ideas he represented that were important.

So then what is the role of a chef? Marco went on and on about inspiration. His self-righteousness in this was overpowering as he slumped in his chair speaking about his mother as his favorite chef and his disdain for multiple course meals–an attitude about which he was very clear even though Ruhlman pointed out that he had been an innovator in this type of cuisine and seemed to have forgotten his past.

Anthony on the other hand did not at all strike me as pretentious. He stated that the main role of a celebrity chef was to show the world what good could be taken from food as well as to put those who had gone astray back on the path of healthy, happy eating. The role of the celebrity chef is to lead away from junk food and towards the realm of fresh and forgotten ingredients. Nearly quoting directly from one of his essays in The Nasty Bits, he stated that the world was a better place after Emeril and especially Mario Batali (although not necessarily Sandra Lee). He and Marco did warn that if a young chef is getting into the business to be on TV, beware! It is for the love of the life of a chef and the food that one should enter the business and for no other reason.

Lastly they talked about where they thought food trends were headed after being prompted by members of the audience. Earlier they had made it very clear that the four-hour, multi-course tasting menu should be a thing of the past. They both despised dainty plates of food accompanied by instructions and disdained the snobbery of the atmosphere – unless, of course, the multiple courses were Sushi. Anthony stated that what he wanted was simple, well prepared food made from top-notch ingredients. Some pasta expertly sauced, a grilled fish on the bone, a roasted chicken. Marco agreed and stated again that he wanted one course, that’s it.

The discussion was amusing, and drew many a laugh from the audience throughout. Bourdain, as I had expected, was as handsome and charming in person as he is on the television. I found him eloquent and not at all pretentious, especially when seated next to White. Perhaps I shouldn’t be too harsh on Marco Pierre White. He is who he is and has been for a long time. Ruhlman, in his Tevas, was a good moderator and prompted well. It was an enjoyable event, and while the question “what is the role of a chef”, may not have been fully answered, it led to an interesting discussion.

I saw Anthony, Marco and Michael as the left the building. I could have gone up, praised their work, and asked for an autograph, but I couldn’t bring myself to it. Wouldn’t that make them the very people they hoped not to be? The celebrity followed by paparazzi, with their pictures up on Perez Hilton? No, these where chefs, and like myself, in it for the food. I took one last glance, and headed for the subway.