Al Di La Sings (Cheesy, I know)

I feel bad that I have neglected to write about Al Di La. I’ve eaten there twice, and the two meals that I had there were some of the most satisfying that I can recently recall. The food is not typical Italian, it is not meatballs and spaghetti, or gourmet pizza, or even comparable to other high end trattorias in which I have dined. It is Venetian, in my humble opinion one of the most heartfelt and comforting cuisines in the western world. The flavors hold a certain depth that suggests tradition and patience. The natural “goût” is coaxed out of each ingredient, allowing each to shine, and at the same time melding in perfect harmony.

Eating at Al Di La reminds me of the wonderful, and entirely too short time that I spent in Venice during the winter of 2006. Using the wonderful French travel guide, Guide de Routard, we strayed immediately away from tourist traps and into the back allies of Venice. In particular, I remember a meal of simple spaghetti with the small clams they fish from the bay, cuttlefish, and the perfect amount of fresh tomato sauce. It also reminds me of the braised rabbit in a back alley restaurant, found without the help of a guidebook, but through the joys of wandering. There was also a bottle of wine, whose cork smelled of cocoa.

Al Di La’s menu changes on a frequent basis and always has interesting, variable specials. One of the most memorable dishes was a chickpea and grilled octopus salad, which was charred and devoured in seconds. The pastas are always unique and homemade, two excellent examples being the ravioli we red beets and ricotta, smothered in butter and poppy seeds, and the Swiss chard and ricotta gnocchi with brown butter and sage, which melts delicately in your mouth. I’ve also enjoyed the braised rabbit with olives and polenta, even if the rabbit was slightly dry.

So if you get a chance, go stand in line for dinner at Al Di La. Or to avoid the invariable line, go for lunch, at 10 pm, or check out the wine bar, which I think I will be sampling this weekend. Order a bottle of wine, check out the shabby-chic décor of various chandeliers, kitsch wallpaper and oversized art, and enjoy an acutely pleasurable dining experience.

Al Di La Trattoria
248 5th Ave.
718 636-8888‎
Reservations not available