Emotionally Hungry (For Food, That Is)

Unraveling Organic

2009-07-10T13:11:00.000-03:00

Cross posted from The Daily Fork.

The organic food that you’re buying may not be 100% organic and therefore discredits the integrity of the organic certification. That is the basic gist of The Washington Post’s much deliberated article, “Purity of Federal ‘Organic’ Label is Questioned“, published July 3rd. It is a well-known fact that the organic certification is not perfect nor is it the end-all, be-all solution to our broken food system. In truth, I am quite tired of hearing people use “organic” as the sole qualifier to their healthy, “sustainable” diet. A Cheeto is a Cheeto, is a Cheeto by any other name, even “organic”, and the company that produces it may not be sustainable in the least.

Multinational corporations have been gobbling up organic companies since they figured out they could make a buck or two off the $23 billion-a-year business. When you buy Horizon Milk, you’re supporting dairy giant and factory farmers extraordinaire, Dean Foods. Boca Burgers are owned by Kraft, Odwalla is owned by Coca-Cola, Stonyfield by Danone. (For some great charts on organic food, click here.) For those who care simply about eating healthier, perhaps it doesn’t really matter who owns the brand. For others who care about where their dollars are going, buying conventional organic is just buying into the same old corporate machine.

Granted, there are a good number of successful companies who have managed to remain independent. Organic Valley, Amy’s Kitchen and Eden Foods are just a few examples that have managed to stay away from corporate takeover. There are also some serious benefits that come along with organic. Animals are fed vegetarian feed and are not given hormones or antibiotics unless ill. Fruits and vegetables are not treated with pesticides. The organic certification also prohibits genetic modification, sewage sludge and irradiation.

On the other hand, organic gives no guarantee that animals will have the freedom to roam. Sure, they are technically supposed to have access to the outdoors, but many companies (not all) find loopholes to this rule. Organic is no guarantee of biodiversity either. Fields and fields of organic soybeans don’t leave room for much else, and can quickly deplete the soil’s resources. Organic food may also be shipped thousands of miles to your nearest Whole Foods or Wild Oats, and it may come packaged in loads of plastics, Styrofoam and who knows what else. That’s why we’re called Sustainable Table, not Organic Table.

Organic does not equate to health either. Organic chips, fatty dips, frozen burritos and pizza are not health foods, something that confuses many consumers. Many tout their healthy, organic diets, but in the end they are eating junk food all the same-it’s just more expensive. And then there are those who disapprove of the 5% of organic product ingredients that need not be organic. The list of allowed ingredients has gone up from 77 to 245 substances since the program’s birth in 2002.

There is really only one true solution to these problems. Get over relying uniquely on the organic label and go beyond. You put food into your body at least three times a day; it’s probably worth getting to know what you’re putting in. If you’re in a huff about the 5% of non-organic ingredients, make the food from scratch. The organic industry is now a corporate machine; chances are they aren’t going to change much. If you make simple meals from scratch, you will really know what’s going in and chances are it will be healthier and cheaper.

Do research. There are many great food companies and farms out there, some certified organic and some not. Many farmers who use biodynamic and organic practices can’t afford the certification or feel disillusioned with it, but they may produce a superior product. Find ones that you can honestly support and stand behind without feeling like you’re giving in to the man. Go the farmers market, talk to the farmers and find out their practices. They are friendly people; ask them questions. When you buy at a farmers market, they get much more money on the dollar than when you buy in a store. Support a dying breed; this country was founded on farming, and now they make up less then 2% of the population.

I appreciate the Washington Post taking a good look at the organic label and bringing it to everyone’s attention. In recent years, it has become so wrapped up in bureaucracy and big business that it confuses consumers and has begun to lose its original meaning. To truly support independent, wholesome organic food producers, do your research and get to know your food. Maybe someday we’ll have an Organic 2.0.

Waxman-Markey Passes Through House After Allowing “Big” Ag Amendments

2009-06-30T12:18:00.000-03:00

On June 26th, the House of Representatives voted on the Waxman-Markey Bill to address climate change. It passed narrowly with 219 aye and 212 nay votes. The American Clean Energy Security Act (as it is otherwise known), sponsored by Reps. Henry Waxman (D-CA) and Ed Markey (D-MA), aims to cut emissions below the 2005 level by 80% in 2050. The bill is enormous, and is divided up into four sections; Clean Energy, Energy Efficiency, Reducing Global Warming Pollution, and Transitioning to a Clean Energy Economy. You can read more about the details of bill here from Grist and here from the NRDC.

While the original bill made little to no mention of agriculture, Rep. Collin Peterson (D-MN) had urged representatives of big agriculture states to vote no on the bill unless changes that he favored were inserted. These changes included payment for certain carbon sequestration methods and definite exemption from the cap and trade limits, even though agriculture contributes between 18 to 20 percent of global warming gases - a higher level than transportation. As Tom Philpott of Grist reports (and he has reported very extensively on the bill), companies such as Monsanto, DuPont and Bayer have been working to create their own system of classifying these offsets, lending much suspicion to their credibility. They have also spent over $2 million lobbying around this bill.

Rep. Peterson was successful in pushing his agenda through. Sustainable Food News reported on June 29th that the climate bill will pay ranchers and farmers for carbon sequestration. It is undoubtedly true that farming does have the ability to curb carbon pollution. Reduction in nitrogen-rich fertilizers (which pollute water) may be eligible for offsets as well as switching animals to more natural feed such as grass which curbs methane production. Some of the other methods that the climate bill suggests are extremely suspect, however, an example being the Big Ag approach to pesticide and fertilizer-heavy “chemical no-till” farming.

In traditional farming, farmers till the soil to decrease weeds. They also add mulches, compost, and manure to help naturally fertilize and build organic matter in the soil. A 2008 Rodale study showed that a field using traditional organic farming had the potential to store up to 2000 lbs of carbon per annum. In some areas, too much tilling causes erosion, but institutes such as Rodale have been working on methods of organic no-till to prevent this problem.

“Chemical no-till”, on the other hand, depends on heavy herbicide use, which can be extremely toxic to both humans and the land. Few claims have been made that “no-till” methods sequester carbon, but there are many peer-reviewed studies which refute this. “No-till” may even release more nitrous oxide from the soil, a much more potent greenhouse gas than carbon. Companies such as Monsanto produce vast amounts of herbicides used in “chemical no-till” such as their Round-up product, so the bill, in rewarding farmers for using these methods, is indirectly supporting their bottom line.

The Waxman-Markey Bill truly has its ups and downs. It is the first United States bill that takes a stance on dramatically reducing global warming emissions. It also includes some measures that reward organic farmers. On the other hand, the bill is a shadow of its former self. It has been heavily watered down by Rep. Peterson’s amendments and gives many recessions to industrial farmers who heavily impact pollution. The amendments have taken power from the EPA and concentrated it with the USDA, which in the past has been heavily influenced by Big Ag. How the bill is perceived in the Senate and beyond is yet to be seen. Many government decisions and non-governmental influences will effect how it plays out in the real world; one can only hope that it will affect some positive change.

Americans: Declare Your Independence from Supermarkets!

2009-06-24T18:02:00.002-03:00

Ask a child where their food comes from and they will probably tell you “the grocery store.” For most people, adults and children alike, the grocery store is the sole point of access to food. Little thought is put into its life beyond the shelves. Vegetables don’t come from the Earth; they come from the refrigerated truck that delivered them. Crackers, chips, and beans materialize magically and are presented, neatly packaged. Most of us don’t know a farmer, but we may know someone who stocks the shelves.

With less than two percent of U.S. residents employed in farming, and the vast majority of our food controlled by a few enormous companies, there is a great divide between the masses and the food they consume. That is why I believe we should declare our independence from grocery store chains. Shop at the farmers market, join a CSA, grow a garden! In doing so, we can reclaim our independence and choice concerning one of our most basic necessities.

In a 1785 letter to John Jay, who was then serving as Secretary of Foreign Affairs, Thomas Jefferson wrote, “Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous, and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bonds. As long, therefore, as they can find employment in this line, I would not convert them into mariners, artisans or anything else.” But employment they lacked, and converted they have been. While some have been lured by the glitz and glam of urban life, many have simply been unable to sustain their farms against fierce competition from large, monopolizing businesses.

Our current condition does not reflect the agricultural and culinary habits of our past. When this fine nation was established, we were all farmers. Our founding fathers and mothers raised corn, beans, and many varieties of wheat and grain. Nearly everyone had a kitchen garden as there was no grocery store to drive on down to. In 1790, 90 percent of the U.S. work force was involved in agriculture. A century later, it had halved to just 43 percent. Today, less than 2 percent of the U.S. labor force farms for a living.

Granted, we have come a long way in agricultural production methods. I’m not speaking of chemical fertilizers and pesticides – which hardly represent progress – but it is obvious that we would have fewer farmers with the advent of tractors and modern irrigation. That said, many who wished to remain farmers have been forced out – not by mechanization – but by the competition of massive corporations subsidized with our tax dollars. Meanwhile, small independent farmers struggle to pay the bills and most work additional jobs off the farm to make ends meet.

Whether or not your sympathies lie with small farmers, our self-interest is firmly at stake in the massive takeover of agriculture. Large corporate farms making over $250,000 a year make up only nine percent of the nation’s total number of farms – yet produce 63 percent of the nation’s food. That leaves us, as consumers, little choice over what foods are produced and how they are raised – in essence, big agribusiness has a stranglehold on our food supply.

Large chain grocery stores - vast, impersonal warehouses filled with chemical-laden food - have been a force in pushing farmers off their land. But they weren’t always this way. At one point, each small, local store carried a specific group of items. There was a store for baked goods, another for cheese, a butcher, a fish monger and a green grocer. In many parts of the world, this is still the case. However, the United States, unfortunately, has been a leader in the quest for faster, cheaper, factory-produced food – a trend that continues to spread throughout the developed and developing world, although not without resistance from some communities.

Today most grocers search far and wide for the cheapest product possible, whether it comes from right down the street or from thousands of miles away. In Barbara Kingsolver’s tremendous book, “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle” she recounts the story of a group of tomato farmers in Virginia who worked for several years to produce an organic crop for a grocery store chain, only to have the order cancelled when the tomatoes were harvested, packaged and ready to ship. The grocery left the farmers with tons of beautiful, quickly rotting fruit – they had arranged to buy cheaper tomatoes from California.

Many grocery chains have developed methods of seducing customers into buying more products than they actually need. Think about the many winding rows involved in getting to the necessities such as eggs and cheese. The most expensive items are placed at eye level while the cheaper goods are hidden at your feet and above your head. Sugar laden children’s cereals are placed at their eye level where they will be more inclined to see the happy characters hawking the brand. Many stores pipe in canned smells in order to make you hungry and persuade you to buy more. Other sales-increasing techniques include manipulating lighting and music.

While grocery store chains seem to offer a wide variety of food, the options are actually quiet limited. Since fruit and vegetables generally travel a long way, they have been bred to be tough and sturdy, not tasty and nutritious. Farmers who want to sell to big distributors are forced to grow these inferior products, which markets value due to their long “shelf life.” Forcing farmers to grow just one or two varieties that travel well not only cuts down on consumer choice, it results in higher use of harmful chemicals and fertilizers because large swaths of land growing only one or two plants are more vulnerable to destructive pests. Shopping at a farmer’s market and buying the heirloom varieties many small independent farmers are growing today encourages them to grow more, preserving the biodiversity and wonderful flavors that are everyone’s rightful heritage, while eliminating the middleman, and leaving more of a profit for the farmer.

This country was founded on the idea of free choice and independence, but our most common activity, eating, is shackled to big business today. It’s time to reclaim our food democracy, reclaim more choice in what we eat, and get back in touch with America’s original profession, farming, so that we can start to close the divide between the American consumer and the farm.

2009-06-24T17:57:00.002-03:00

Cross-posted from me at Sustainable Table's blog, The Daily Table...

Kids and nutrition has been a very popular topic in the news. The Bancroft Elementary School students have been helping Michelle Obama in the White House organic garden, and the first lady has been very vocal about getting more healthy foods into the USDA’s Child Nutrition programs. Sites such as School Lunch Talk and Better School Food are spreading the word about the unhealthy food kids are served in school and what action can be taken. Slow Food USA just launched the “Time For Lunch: National Day of Action” campaign to fight for “real food” in schools. On top of all this, a new movie, “What’s On Your Plate” explores food, nutrition, and our modern food system from two eleven year old girls’ points of view.

On a summer vacation to Ohio, Sadie and Safiyah taste the best cherry tomato of their young lives, which leads them to ask, “Where did this come from”? Sadie’s mother, the film’s director, asks them if they want to meet the farmer who grew it, and so their journey begins. Back home in New York, they question the processed food they see in grocery stores and try to figure out “What exactly is a Funyun”? They join a CSA, visit farmers’ markets and speak with friends about their dietary habits and what can be done to improve their health.

Along the way, the two girls meet up with food activists, chefs, authors and teachers to explore the depths of America’s food system. The advisory council to the film reads like a roster of major players in the sustainable food movement: Anna Lappé, Dan Barber, Raj Patel, Alice Waters, Michael Pollan, plus many more. The girls meet with food activist Kate Adamick, who takes them to the supermarket where they take a look at the ingredients labels on supposedly “healthy food.”

According to director Catherine Gund, “Kids need to know the full benefits of local food: more energy-efficient production, more prosperous farmers, healthier communities, longer lasting and better tasting fruits and veggies. Kids need to know that their food doesn’t only come from the supermarket or the factory, but from nearby farms, trees and the ground. Adults need to be empowered to share this information with the next generation.”

If you feel this way too, take your kids to a screening! For New Yorkers, there is a free screening in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene Park this Saturday, June 27th as well as one at the BAM cinemas on July 7th.

For other screenings around the country, check out the fabulous “What’s On Your Plate” site. They have an interactive map, animation clips, information on the advisory board and much more. You can watch the trailer there, or click here.

Matsugen

2009-03-03T23:33:00.004-02:00

The host was late in seating us. Our 8:30 reservation was backed up to 9:15 and we were left to entertain ourselves consuming specialty cocktails (light on the hooch, not too hard on the wallet). Not to worry, Matsugen kept us content with free appetizers - spicy edamame and chicken meatballs - piquant and savory. We passed our time gossiping at the long and slender bar until we were lead to a four-top deep within the cavernous depths of the restaurant.

Four of us had set out to this shrine to soba on a blustery Friday night looking for a reprieve from the daily grind that offered a touch of class but a reasonable price tag. The class was present, clean lines and simplicity, concrete floors, and blooms piled high on the end of the sushi bar. The vast space was full (but not cluttered) with dark tables of all shapes and sizes. The lighting was dim and serene, and a group of Japanese girls chatting in the corner provided the soundtrack.

After much deliberation, we decided on an appetizer and soba each, not a bad bargain for one of Jean-George Vongerichten’s superior eateries. One of my fellow diners tried the uni in yuzu jelly, and was turned off by the texture. I got past it however and was pleased by the salty, rich flavor of the dish. The serving of silken tofu was enormous, clean tasting, and rustic. The kumomoto oysters were at their best - petite, unfettered, lush.

The giant bowls of soba-noodles arrived on wooden faux-cafeteria trays. The scent wafting from the bowl was comforting, and the broth luxuriant and rich. The noodles were cut with precision and tasted distinctly of buckwheat. They were not sloppy and bland like so many soba noodles, but earthy-sharp. I lingered over that bowl, and rebuffed the server several times when he tried to take it away. The mushrooms bobbing in my bowl provided the perfect counterpoint to the noodles and my neighbors duck was toothsome and tender. This was a dish that would have been just as comfortable sold out of a street-cart in Japan as it was in the snazzy New York dining scene.

We finished with a molten-chocolate cake, cliché but well executed, and were also presented with a sorbet sampler, another benefit of our late seating. Fig, pear, and plum all tasted right off the branch. The restaurant was nearly empty when we finished; a light sizzle could be heard from the tabletop grill close-by grill. I would declare this meal a victory – agreeably long, reasonably priced and plenty of perks. A most satisfying soba experience on a cold night.

Matsugen
241 Church St, New York, NY‎
(212) 925-0202‎

Lidia Makes Me Wish I Was Italian

2009-02-24T01:04:00.005-02:00

I came home from New York on Sunday exhausted by a late night and by the miserable rainy weather. I fell asleep on the couch with the soothing sounds of Jacques Pepin in the background and awoke again to Lidia, just starting to work away in her kitchen on Channel 13.

I've been into Italian food lately, Northern Italian in particular, just like the rest of the world. But I prefer to think it’s my own discovery, like I’m the only one who eats at Al Di La and has dreams of slow-cooked onions and anchovies. So I was happy to see Lidia, at ease in her kitchen, cooking with her granddaughter on that dreary Sunday afternoon.

That day she was making hand rolled Makaruni in a simple rich mushroom sauce she recalled from her childhood in Istria, Italy. That show made me wish my family was Italian. Then I would know dishes like this from my childhood. I would call my grandmother Nonni, and we would have hand-gestured all over the place.

I tried making that dish for my American mother and me. I couldn’t get the Chanterelles the recipe called for, but made due with Cremini and Shitake. The pasta was simple to make using the Cuisinart. I had to fuss with the water and flour a bit but quickly got it to the right texture. The sauce took a bit longer to make then I expected, but I’m sure it would be faster the second time around. The smell wafting from the pot was earthy, mushroomy deliciousness seasoned by the concentrated tomato paste and sage.

I would call it a success. I might cook the noodles a bit longer next time but it was certainly a hearty, home-cooked meal. Click here for the recipe and enjoy. Thanks Lidia!

Stamford: Eat at the Restaurants, Avoid the Nightlife

2009-02-20T16:30:00.002-02:00

For a long time I’ve stayed away from downtown Stamford. The thought of Hula Hank’s and the Thirsty Turtle have kept me far away. Girls in skin-tight tube tops sporting dangly butterfly belly-button rings, and guys with greasy spiked hair, diamond studs and wife-beaters have kept me at bay. I usually only venture in for the occasional movie or to drop something at my dad’s office, but in the last month or so I have sampled several of the downtown restaurants and have been surprisingly impressed.

We celebrated the farewell of a friend about a month again at Napa & Co, a year-old restaurant in the Marriot Courtyard. While exorbitantly priced for the hotel and the neighborhood, the food was impressive. In particular, my farrow, mushroom, and poached egg appetizer was delicious, flavors melding together to form a rich, creamy dish. The roasted Brussels sprouts were also a pleasant surprise. My father’s gnocchi was fluffy and tender with the help of some ricotta cheese. The menu changes nightly, and while I didn’t try it, the cheese selection was impressive. Service could have been ramped up a notch considering the tab, but it was polite and attentive enough.

We slipped in for a quick meal at Telluride about two weeks ago before seeing Slumdog Millionaire at the Avon Theatre across the street (a great place to see a movie by the way, lots of old-world charm). While I wasn’t there for long, the décor was pleasant, the service attentive and my pasta dish quite tasty. A hearty combination of penne, goat cheese, roasted red peppers in garlic was much better than I had expected. They also have an array of oysters which my grandmother took advantage of. (Don’t order the corn chowder, it tasted like it came out of a can.) Important to note is that both Napa & Co and Telluride shop at sustainable retailers and use organic meat, something that earns them major points in my book.

Last week we had a lovely pre-Valentines day meal at Duo, taking advantage of their free oyster night (again, my grandmother loves oysters). I’ve eaten at Duo before (it’s below my father’s office) and always had a very satisfying experience. The oysters were fresh, garnished in three different ways. I had sushi, and asked the manager to prepare whatever was freshest. I tried Uni for the first time, and found it quite delicious. My grandmother’s duck “duo” was excellent in both forms (sliced breast and cannelloni confit), as was my mother’s lamb (two chubby chops cooked to perfection, accompanied by couscous and root vegetables in a reduction sauce). Definitely a restaurant worth checking out, and they have great deals and specials. Get on their e-mail list.

So, while Stamford after eleven may not be my scene, it’s not a bad place to go for a casual meal or a classy night out. The downtown renovation along with the addition of U-Conn Stamford has been successful in drawing a variety of bars and eateries to the area. But instead of taking shots at Black Bear or hopping on the swing at Hula Hank’s, have a sustainable bite to eat and catch a classic at the Avon instead.

Napa & Co
75 Broad Street
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 353-3319

Telluride
245 Bedford St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 357-7679

Duo
25 Bank St
Stamford, CT 06901
(203) 252-2233

What I Think About Picky Eaters

2009-02-18T23:50:00.005-02:00

I hate picky eaters. There, I said it. I was trying to figure out a more tactful way to state it, but that’s what came out. They really bother me with their, “I don’t like asparagus”, “I can’t stand scallops” and, “I only eat white food”. Or even worse is when someone says “gross!”. Just because YOU don’t like it, doesn’t make it gross. It means that you are afraid to try things, and therefore are missing out on many of the great pleasures in life, like blood-sausage.

And where does picky eating stem from? My theory: parents. It’s those parents who say, “Well we’re having pork loin, but little Billy just throws up at the sight of pork, so I’ll just make him a hot-dog and some Doritos”. I love parents who feed their kid whatever they’re eating, and too bad if they don’t like it. It’s one of the first questions I finagle into the conversation when I meet parents; it helps me judge them.

I don’t care if you don’t like a particular food, but you must try it, and more than once for that matter! Trying a Brussels sprout in third grade doesn’t count. You have to try it roasted, with lots of butter, now. I include bizarre meat products in this must-try policy as well. People all over the world eat all sorts of strange cuts and entrails all the time and love them! In America so much goes to waste. Bring me the tripe, the sweetbreads, the liver! When my beloved grandfather was ill, all he wanted were tongue sandwiches, and that is one of the many reasons I respected him so much.

So please, when you encounter something you’re afraid to eat, have courage in the fact that it probably won’t kill you and you might even enjoy it. Who knows, your new favorite snack could even be a bug.

New Year, New Parties

2009-02-03T23:10:00.002-02:00

Dinner parties seem to be the theme of the last couple of months – they’ve certainly been my theme anyway. We’ve been trying to save money (or at least pretend like we’re saving money) by going to the grocery store and cooking in. Of course by the time we’re through, we’ve spent at least $60 bucks on various cuts of meat, herbs, veggies at the specialty food store and then more money for wine. It does feel less guilty than spending $100 on a mediocre meal at a restaurant, and you may have leftovers!

About a month ago it was a steak and potatoes night in Brooklyn, updated steak and potatoes that is. Recipes provided by Fine Cooking, of course, and wine from the lovely shop on 5th in Park Slope, Red, White and Bubbly. We started with a white bean and artichoke dip, easily blended in the Cuisinart. Then it was on to an herb-marinated steak, which sat overnight in olive oil, kosher salt, pepper, fresh rosemary and thyme and then was grilled on the indoor cast-iron behemoth in Cliff’s kitchen. For a side, we had the very successful smashed potatoes, a mix between mashed and fried potatoes, especially popular with the male contingent. To finish, waffle-iron chocolate chip/oatmeal cookies. A very easy dinner, satisfying and fun to share with a few friends.

Another night’s dinner was a bit more complicated. Our aspirations were higher as we had the whole evening to cook, and Cliff’s parents’ giant kitchen to do so in. We slacked on hors d’oevres, just veggies and dip. For the main course, I tried something I’d seen in the “Roasting” special edition that Fine Cooking had just put out, Chorizo and Apple stuffed Pork Roast. I’d never stuffed anything like that before, and we had quite the adventure getting the chorizo inside the pork. For the side, we served a shallot and Gruyere potato gratin that even our French “amie” praised. For dessert, my hero Jacques Pepin’s Cuisinart almond cake, an easy crowd pleaser.

On other nights, there have been braises, a perfect winter meal and an east way to transform a cheaper cut of meat! We’ve also gone back to our old standby, baked mac and cheese with broccoli, as well as Roast Chicken à la Alice Waters. So now that I’ve made so many dinners, I’m just waiting for my pals to reciprocate. Cooking at home is an easy and amusing way to spend a cold night indoors, catch up with friends, and save a little money at the same time.

Smashed Potatoes

Apple and Chorizo Stuff Pork

Waffle Iron Oatmeal-Chocolate Chip Cookies

Al Di La Sings (Cheesy, I know)

2009-01-13T14:27:00.003-02:00

I feel bad that I have neglected to write about Al Di La. I’ve eaten there twice, and the two meals that I had there were some of the most satisfying that I can recently recall. The food is not typical Italian, it is not meatballs and spaghetti, or gourmet pizza, or even comparable to other high end trattorias in which I have dined. It is Venetian, in my humble opinion one of the most heartfelt and comforting cuisines in the western world. The flavors hold a certain depth that suggests tradition and patience. The natural “goût” is coaxed out of each ingredient, allowing each to shine, and at the same time melding in perfect harmony.

Eating at Al Di La reminds me of the wonderful, and entirely too short time that I spent in Venice during the winter of 2006. Using the wonderful French travel guide, Guide de Routard, we strayed immediately away from tourist traps and into the back allies of Venice. In particular, I remember a meal of simple spaghetti with the small clams they fish from the bay, cuttlefish, and the perfect amount of fresh tomato sauce. It also reminds me of the braised rabbit in a back alley restaurant, found without the help of a guidebook, but through the joys of wandering. There was also a bottle of wine, whose cork smelled of cocoa.

Al Di La’s menu changes on a frequent basis and always has interesting, variable specials. One of the most memorable dishes was a chickpea and grilled octopus salad, which was charred and devoured in seconds. The pastas are always unique and homemade, two excellent examples being the ravioli we red beets and ricotta, smothered in butter and poppy seeds, and the Swiss chard and ricotta gnocchi with brown butter and sage, which melts delicately in your mouth. I’ve also enjoyed the braised rabbit with olives and polenta, even if the rabbit was slightly dry.

So if you get a chance, go stand in line for dinner at Al Di La. Or to avoid the invariable line, go for lunch, at 10 pm, or check out the wine bar, which I think I will be sampling this weekend. Order a bottle of wine, check out the shabby-chic décor of various chandeliers, kitsch wallpaper and oversized art, and enjoy an acutely pleasurable dining experience.

Al Di La Trattoria
248 5th Ave.
718 636-8888‎
Reservations not available

Stone Park Café

2008-11-20T22:53:00.003-02:00

Dined at Stone Park Café today for the second time this month. Both times I sat at the same table, and both meals were equally enjoyable. What stands out most at Stone Park is the freshness and quality of both the produce and the meat . The vegetables are minimally tampered with, allowing the clean flavors to stand out. The protein is showcased through simple preparation and generous portions. The menu also has an equally appealing number of fish and meat dishes, which makes for nice variety and balance.

Last time I visited, several weeks ago with a small party of friends and friends' parents, we were there for dinner. The atmosphere was cool and relaxed with fish prints on the wall and brown paper on the tables. I can’t keep track of everything that was served, but I do recall that my Brussels sprouts salad with goat cheese and duck confit was crunchy and the uncooked Brussels sprouts a real treat. Cliff’s steak tartar was also a very interesting concoction served with a Worcestershire jelly, something I had never encountered before. My main course, tilefish, another first, was light and buttery, yet satisifying.

At brunch today, Stone Park was transformed into the most happening brunch joint in Park Slope. Thank God they take reservations for tables of six or more, otherwise it would have been a very long wait. My bluefish cakes with poached eggs, caper hollandaise and celery root slaw was a great take on the original, and I finished every bite. The short rib hash with eggs was also a hit, along with the biscuits and gravy, a dish rarely seen on the New York scene. The side of pommes frites was devoured by all. My Bloody Mary was good and spicy, which I appreciate, as they aren’t all so. My mom's Bellini was a little dull, the peach juice was apparently not cold, and brought the temperature of the sparkling wine down to a not-so-refreshing temperature.

Stone Park has thus far been consistent in quality. My only real complaint was the loud classic hip-hop music during brunch. I couldn’t hear a thing (some people actually like to converse over a good meal) and not everyone particularly enjoys that genre of music. They were also out of the chicken that my mom ordered at brunch, but failed to tell her until very shortly before our meal was served. She made another choice though, and the problem was quickly resolved.

To Tarry or Not to Tarry?

2008-11-19T00:54:00.005-02:00

My 90-year-old grandmother first brought to my attention the recent opening of Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich’s new restaurant in Port Chester, the Tarry Lodge. What was once a rundown, run-of-the-mill, windowless Italian joint has been transformed into the green, bright, chic eatery serving up the well known restaurateurs’ Italian fair.

As she was the one to make the discovery, my grandmother took us there for dinner on an average Wednesday night. My expectations were high. I had read a lot about the Batali/Bastianich team but had never been to one of their restaurants. Most reviews for their other enterprises had been rave, but perhaps my expectations shouldn’t have been so towering for a Port Chester restaurant with mid-range prices. It’s not New York City, after all.

The reservation was tough to get, but we finally snagged a 7:00 slot after several attempts. The place was packed, people crowded around the entrance, noise spilled from the many rooms and frantic hosts ran in all directions. There are two dining rooms downstairs, one larger bar room and another smaller room straight through the entrance. We got a table in the upstairs dining room, hoping it would be quieter.

The second level proved to be nearly as loud, but with less of the hustle and bustle. We were seated at a pleasant corner table and handed enormous single-page menus. I don’t really understand the purpose of such a large, obtrusive sheet of paper. You can’t set it on the table, and the only place it fits is on your lap where, if you’re my height, it comes up to your chin. Why not a smaller, more manageable menu that you’re not in a hurry to get rid of?

After some serious analysis and questions for our waitress about some unfamiliar terms, we made our decisions and placed our order. The knowledgeable sommelier also gave us some help with the vast Italian wine list. Upon his recommendation, we selected a Sardinian red, which was light in body with subtle red fruit. It was a crowd-pleasing recommendation.

While we drank our wine and waited for appetizers, one element that you could not help but notice was the blaring 80’s soundtrack pounding from unseen speakers all around. The choice of music was absurd (think along the lines of Talk Talk’s “It’s My Life” and believe me that was the best of it). The tunes were totally incongruous with the vibe and food of the restaurant. It’s as if they had chosen the music in total disregard of all other elements; the décor, the clientele, the food, the location. Obtrusive to the point of being annoying, we finally asked the sommelier to turn it down, and he graciously accommodated us. After that, we could at least converse. On to the food …

appetizers materialized promptly. I ordered the octopus with baby potatoes that I had been eyeing on the restaurant’s website. I have to say, I love octopus and was a bit disappointed. There was almost too much octopus, cut in large chunks drowned in dressing. It was overly oily and without any defining flavor. Another appetizer ordered was grilled shrimp with pickled watermelon, an interesting combination, but could have been refined. My dad ordered a bowl of faro with charred corn and some sort of fresh cheese, which was probably the best of the dishes. My mother had the new “it” meat, speck, which was paper thin and delicious. It could have used some sort of accompaniment as it was served solo on a sheet of paper like it just came from the deli slicer.

Our bread plates (and by the way, the bread was fantastic) were taken when the appetizers came, but I later saw a family sharing their appetizers. This would have been the way to go, as the aforementioned dishes were a bit overwhelming. However, there was no way to predict individual serving quantities, and sharing wasn’t suggested.

On to the main courses. My father had the squid ink pasta with corn and lobster. It tasted fine, the pasta was cooked well, but it was nothing special. With those three ingredients, I really feel like something outstanding could be created. I had the gnocchi with braised oxtail. The gnocchi was very well prepared and extremely light, and the oxtail was cooked perfectly, but again, the flavors didn’t pop. My mom had the braised short rib, one of her favorite dishes. It was well seasoned although a little salty (even for a big salter like herself), but they skimped with only a trickle of polenta under the sizeable piece of meat. Winkie (Grandma) ordered eggplant parmesan, for what reason I cannot understand (she isn’t a vegetarian), and I think it was decent, but I didn’t hear any rave reviews coming from her side of the table.

So there ends my first encounter with the famed Italian-style restaurateurs. On the down side, the food was just okay. I had expected bolder, fresher flavors, something thrilling to the palate. I knew the food would be rustic, and not too technical, but it just didn’t quite make it. After so much care and attention to the décor and service, the food and its “visual” presentation were a step down.

On the positive side, the restaurant is beautiful, ochre walls and large windows with marble sills. The servers were very knowledgeable and attentive without being pushy. And the prices were reasonable, at least for the Fairfield/Westchester/NYC area.

Although my first visit wasn’t the awesome experience I had hoped for, I would definitely give the Tarry Lodge another shot. The menu is large and varied, and perhaps we ordered wrong. The pizza looked very appetizing. Who knows? Maybe that could be the standout item that keeps you coming back as it was with the original Tarry Lodge. With some refinement of ingredients and presentation, I think the Tarry Lodge may have the potential be a neighborhood hit.

2008-10-24T12:54:00.008-02:00

I was just checking out Michael Ruhlman’s blog at http://blog.ruhlman.com/, when I came across an entry blasting the press release for Alain Ducasses’s new cookbook, Ducasse Made Simple by Sophie. As it happens, I was the one who translated the press release from French so that it could be sent out to the many editorial staffs around the country who just LOVE getting press release after press release.

So anyways, that’s exciting. Something I worked on getting blasted by the ever amusing, ever sarcastic, ever Teva-wearing Michael Ruhlman. I have to agree with him, the idea of simplifying Ducasse, who is difficult by nature, is slightly ridiculous. But hey, it wasn’t my idea, I just did the translation.

If you want to read what the blog said go to: The Fallacy of the Quick and Easy Cookbook @ http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/10/the-fallacy-of.html

Blue Ribbon Brasserie

2008-10-20T23:48:00.003-02:00

Ate the other night at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope with Cliff, his sister Laura, and his parents, who were kind enough to treat us. Although Mr. H. was bummed about the future of the stock market and was on his Blackberry for much of the time, the food was still very fine indeed. Despites these uncertain times, the Brasserie did not seem to be hurting for business.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie is one of eight successful establishments owned by the Bromberg Brothers. Located directly next to its Sushi counterpart (reviewed below), Blue Ribbon, which opened in Brooklyn in 2001, maintains the high standard of quality that has come to be expected from the Brombergs.

The warm and bustling atmosphere with red walls, a large raw bar, banquettes and mirrors, is a pleasant place to enjoy some comfort food. Out waiter was very attentive and friendly, perhaps even a bit over-eager. We all drank wines by the glass, and my large pour of Tempranillo was pleasing to the palate.

To start, we shared four appetizers. Laura ordered the artichoke, which was classic and delicious with a lemon butter dip. The pirogues that I ordered were hearty and familiar, with some perfectly caramelized onions along side. I didn’t try the sardines, (I was a bit hung-over, but I usually love them), but they got rave reviews from the other diners. Lastly the chicken wings that Cliff ordered were fantastic and came with a little pot of fire to caramelize them on. At first we thought this was a gimmick, but once it got going, it actually put some tasty char on those wings!

For our main courses, Mr. H. and I ordered the duck confit, with an orange sauce and roasted potatoes. It was well cooked and I especially enjoyed the garlicky salad dressing that came on my little side of greens. However, the overall portion of duck was a bit small. Mrs. H. ordered the salmon with mashed potatoes, which she raved about. Laura had the fried chicken that was apparently tender and scrumptious, although she was too full to finish it off. Cliff was the most adventurous and ordered the pigeon (not squab, pigeon) and enjoyed his first encounter with this particular fowl. It was very rich in flavor, and I was proud of the boy who once lived continually on peanut butter sandwiches.

Even though we were all pretty “stuffed,” of course, we ordered dessert. We had one Chocolate Bruno, which is Blue Ribbon’s signature dish, and half portions of both the chocolate chip and Banana Walnut Bread Pudding. I loved the Banana Walnut Pudding because it reminded me of my favorite Baang desert, banana nut spring rolls. My dinner companions gobbled up the chocolate dishes, so we can safely assume they enjoyed them!

It was a very cheering dinner in these not so cheerful times, even if the bill was probably a bit steep. There is something on the menu for everyone, from the youngest to the eldest patron. Diverse, upscale comfort food for all, Blue Ribbon Brasserie in Park Slope is most definitely a winner.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie
278 5th Avenue (between 1st and Garfield)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-840-0408
Reservations are accepted for five or more.

Birth-Day Par-Tay

2008-10-20T23:46:00.004-02:00

Birthday Dinner

I wasn’t going to have a birthday party. I hate when people obsess over their birthdays, so this year I thought I’d just let it pass by. Of course there was the obligatory family dinner, heretofore described, and maybe I’d go out with the boyfriend, but besides that, no party.

Then, suddenly, it was five days before the big day. People started asking, “What are you doing for your birthday?” and “Are you having a party, going to a bar?” Well I couldn’t say I was doing nothing now, could I? So, I sent out a desperate, last minute e-mail trying to wrangle as many people as I could. And then I started planning for the food.

The plan was to have a little shindig over at Cliff’s apartment, no big deal. There would be friends, drinks and lots of food. I decided on an all-appetizer theme. In case you didn’t know, making all appetizers is hard. Preparing lots of little things, as opposed to a few large items, is pretty labor-intensive. Next time I will keep this in mind.

Anyway, things turned out quite well. I made chicken sate, babaganoush with Lebanese flatbread, blinis with crème fraiche and smoked salmon, Stilton stuffed-mushrooms, and two pork tenderloins. We finished it all off with a delicious chocolate cake courtesy of Aux Delice. Several have asked for recipes, so I thought I’d post some of the good ones.

I don’t want to plagiarize, so I have to give a lot of the credit to the cookbook I used, (even though I’d like to say I made them all up). The book is Appetizers, Finger Good, Buffets & Parties, edited by Bridget Jones, and published by Hermes House. The book is generally clear, and the recipes went well for the most part, although some of the directions were a bit confusing. (A lemon-basil aioli dip went disastrously wrong.) Also, since I prefer to go a little free form sometimes, I made some modifications to the recipes

Chicken Saté

I have to say, this was the hit of the party. It went FAST. I doubled the recipe, and it was about enough for 7 people.

3 boneless chicken breasts
6-inch wooden skewers

For the marinade:
• 12 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 8 tablespoons soy sauce
• 8 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 3-inch piece fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped
• 6 garlic cloves
• 4 tablespoons light brown sugar
• 2 small fresh red chilies, seeded and chopped
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

For the peanut sauce:
• 6 tablespoons peanut butter
• 4 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 4 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar

First, prepare the marinade by mixing all of the above ingredients in a bowl. A food processor is not necessary for this, just make sure you whisk it well.

Next, begin preparing the chicken by making sure all the excess fat is removed. Then slice the chicken into 1½-inch cubes. The easiest way to do this is cut it into about 4 strips length wise, and then cut crosswise.

Place the chicken and marinade in a plastic bag, making sure it’s tightly sealed, and place it in the refrigerator to marinate. If you have the time, leave it overnight. That is what I did and the flavors were powerful and clear.

For the peanut sauce, mix all of the ingredients together in a medium-sized bowl making sure it is well blended. You can adjust the sauce with more peanut butter, soy sauce or sugar depending on your preference. I like mine very peanut-y.

When you are getting ready to grill, skewer the chicken, about three pieces per stick. I used a large, two burner, cast iron grill, but you could use a regular outdoor grill or broiler.

If you are using an indoor grill as I did, turn the heat up very high and let the grill get hot before you start. Cook the chicken for about 2 minutes on each side, or until it is golden and cooked through. If you use the broiler, put them in for about 4-5 minutes on a cookie sheet lined with tin foil (to avoid a burned-on mess).

Place skewered chicken on a serving tray with the peanut sauce and enjoy!

Baang For My Birthday

2008-10-13T18:30:00.012-03:00

A Greenwich favorite for over 12 years, Baang has still got it. I have eaten there many times and tried almost everything on the menu. Sometimes I even do takeout. The kitchen was particularly “on” last Thursday night, however, when we went to celebrate my big 2-3.

I met my family there around 6:00, early-bird time, as we were with my grandmother. We were the first ones there and got a nice round table with a booth. Baang is separated into two levels with a big open kitchen on the upper level. Up a couple steps and along one side is a long, curvy bar, and the room has high ceilings with over-arching mesh “sculptures”.

We started with some drinks, of course. I took a look at the “drink specials” menu (which I always do) and got a Passion-tini – a very fresh and satisfying passion fruit concoction made with vodka. Everyone else had Cosmos, which were perfectly pink and well blended. We then made the unanimous decision to start with a selection of appetizers since they are always amazing.

We ordered five in total. First up were the fantastic lobster crepes in a cream and plum wine sauce. They melt in your mouth, they are incredible, you must try them. That’s all I’ll say. Next up was a Baang classic, Fire Cracker Spring Rolls. They are very hot and come with a wasabi mustard dipping sauce that draws a searing fire through the nose, a good thing in my opinion.

We then tried three new items on the appetizer list: mushroom croquettes, a scallop gratin, and a salmon tartar. The mushroom croquettes had the earthy scent of wild mushroom and pleasing, soft inside and a crunchy exterior. The Scallop Gratin was gooey, hot and accompanied by asparagus. We all know I am a fan of gratin, and this was a unique twist on the traditional version. Our last selection was the true winner, salmon tartar on a tiny vegetable cake. We had six of them, and I was grudgingly allowed two since it was my birthday. The salmon was extremely fresh, and the little cake below resembled a crab cake, sans crab. I could happily eat the whole plate for lunch.

Onto the entrees, which on this night were as appealing as the appetizers. Of course, we had to order the calamari salad. This really deserves a paragraph of its own. It’s a whopping heap of frisse lettuce, a superb creamy dressing with a touch of chili oil, and fried calamari rolled in corn meal and cooked to perfection. We order it every time we eat at Baang. Everyone in town knows about it. It is, hands down, the best calamari salad you have ever had.

On the meatier side of things, we ordered spice-encrusted Szechuan lamb chops with wasabi mashed potatoes. The lamb chops were dainty and deliciously grilled, a perfect little portion of meat. The mashed potatoes came wrapped up in spring roles, making it easy to share and a fun twist that I had never seen before. Last, we enjoyed roasted magret of duck with an Asian pear salad and sweet potato gratin. Separately, these were all sweet and tasty things, but when combined, the taste was taken to a whole new level. Everything was truly phenomenal, and we had no problem finishing every last bit of food.

To finish off the meal, just two light desserts, my personal favorite, banana nut spring rolls, and a chocolate pagoda. The banana nut spring rolls from Baang are up there on my all-time “best desserts” list along with a chocolate lava cake I had in Paris. For my wedding cake, I want these things stacked in an enormous pile. The chocolate pagoda is also a faux-asian little charmer. The quality of the chocolate is very high and sure to satisfy the craving of any chocolate addict.

One warning I should give about Baang is that it gets very loud on weekend nights. Not just a din, but a commotion. They blast that techno music like you’re in a European Dance Club at 2:00 am. This can be fun for a large party, but bad for a date or gathering with older family members. It is also quite dark, so if you don’t see well, be prepared. Weekdays are much better for noise, and if you go early, as we did, you won’t have any problem. Lunch is also a great option if you want to skip the hubbub entirely.

To conclude, if you haven’t gone to Baang and you live in the area, you are missing out. The flavors are unique, savory and delicious. The price is a little high, but this is not the kind of stuff most of us can cook at home, so it is worth every penny. No need to head to the city for best fusion around, it’s right on the Post Road.

Baang Cafe and Restaurant
1191 East Putnam Avenue
Riversde CT, 06878
203-637-2114

Gratin Provencal

2008-10-01T17:49:00.002-03:00

When I left France, I was sick of gratin. We ate it almost every night. It was very heavy on the béchamel, and often the vegetables involved were overcooked. But as time has passed, I have come to crave the gooey deliciousness that was the essence of this cheesy vegetable dish once more. It is definitely comfort food, and the way I make it, perhaps not the lightest. But every so often, preferably on a chilly night, it makes the perfect meal. There are many variations, but this is my recipe, and I think it is a pleasant concoction –not too heavy but still maintaining the integrity of a proper French gratin.

40 Minutes. Serves six as a side dish, four as a main dish.

Ingredients
• 5 Tablespoons Butter
• 2 Large Yellow Onions
• 4 Zucchini (or 2 Zucchini and 2 Yellow Squash), sliced into ¼ inch pieces, skin on
• 2 Tablespoons Flour
• 1 Tablespoon Salt
• 1 Tablespoon Fresh Black Pepper
• ¾ Cup Hot Milk
• 20 Cherry Tomatoes, halved
• ¾ Cup Grated Gruyere Cheese
• ½ Cup Bread Crumbs (preferably homemade)
• 2 Tablespoons Chopped Fresh Rosemary

Preheat oven to 400°

Slice onions into thin rings. Place in large, heavy pan (preferably cast-iron), and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes until soft and clear. Place zucchini in pan with onions and cook covered for about 10 minutes or until soft.

Add salt and pepper and cook another 2 minutes. Add flour and stir in so that it coats the zucchini and onions. Add the hot milk and let it thicken to a sauce-like consistency, about two minutes.

Pour mixture into an 8” by 10” backing dish. Add cherry tomatoes so that they are spread evenly on top of the zucchini and onion mixture. Coat dish with Gruyere cheese, chopped rosemary and breadcrumbs. Place in oven for about 20 minutes or until bubbling and brown. Serve immediately.

So there we have it. A simple dish that will bring back your childhood memories of France, or at least make you wish you had a French childhood. I wish I did, but I guess this is close enough.

StarChefs

2008-10-01T17:45:00.003-03:00

It was my great fortune to attend the discussion between Anthony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White, moderated by Michael Ruhlman at the Third Annual Chefs Congress in New York. Hosted by Antoinette Bruno, the CEO of starchefs.com, the event is a showcase for chefs, people in the restaurant business, sommeliers and mixologists. One of the only events of its kind, the three-day gathering featured lectures, a products fair, cocktails and, to cap it off, a “rising stars” gala.

I happened to gain entry to this event after interning for a PR company that handled the press for StarChefs. Upon paying my dues for an hour at the press and sponsor check-in, I took off to explore the vast hall of culinary products, beer, wine and cheese. Slightly intimidated by the professional food crowd, I roamed from table to table, a taste of pate here, a sip of wine there.

My main goal was to see Anthony Bourdain, whose philosophy on food and life I greatly admire. After reading his books and watching “No Reservations,” I was eager to see him speak in person. It’s funny that Bourdain should have fans like me as he sees himself as a lucky bum who happened to be rocketed to stardom by Kitchen Confidential. But he does have fans, lots of them. They filled the stands for the most part to see him converse with Marco Pierre White, the original “bad boy” of the culinary world and smug in that persona.

The topic of the day was “The Role of the Chef.” The discussion began with the questions about who were true chefs today, and could they still name themselves as such if not behind the stove? So many famous chefs these days are more CEO’s than anything else, running 5, 10, 15 restaurants at once. Is it a positive or negative trend? Can they accept the Michelin stars if they themselves are not doing the culinary work?

Marco’s answer was decidedly “no.” He himself had given up his Michelin stars when he discontinued work in his kitchens. He stated that if he was eating at a restaurant with the chef’s name above the door, the chef should be there, that it was important to the integrity of the cuisine. Bourdain disagreed saying it was only reasonable that a 50-year-old man, a 35-year veteran of the kitchen should try to succeed in other ways. It wasn’t rational to expect an experienced chef to be garnishing every plate and searing every piece of salmon. It was the chef’s vision, his training and the ideas he represented that were important.

So then what is the role of a chef? Marco went on and on about inspiration. His self-righteousness in this was overpowering as he slumped in his chair speaking about his mother as his favorite chef and his disdain for multiple course meals–an attitude about which he was very clear even though Ruhlman pointed out that he had been an innovator in this type of cuisine and seemed to have forgotten his past.

Anthony on the other hand did not at all strike me as pretentious. He stated that the main role of a celebrity chef was to show the world what good could be taken from food as well as to put those who had gone astray back on the path of healthy, happy eating. The role of the celebrity chef is to lead away from junk food and towards the realm of fresh and forgotten ingredients. Nearly quoting directly from one of his essays in The Nasty Bits, he stated that the world was a better place after Emeril and especially Mario Batali (although not necessarily Sandra Lee). He and Marco did warn that if a young chef is getting into the business to be on TV, beware! It is for the love of the life of a chef and the food that one should enter the business and for no other reason.

Lastly they talked about where they thought food trends were headed after being prompted by members of the audience. Earlier they had made it very clear that the four-hour, multi-course tasting menu should be a thing of the past. They both despised dainty plates of food accompanied by instructions and disdained the snobbery of the atmosphere – unless, of course, the multiple courses were Sushi. Anthony stated that what he wanted was simple, well prepared food made from top-notch ingredients. Some pasta expertly sauced, a grilled fish on the bone, a roasted chicken. Marco agreed and stated again that he wanted one course, that’s it.

The discussion was amusing, and drew many a laugh from the audience throughout. Bourdain, as I had expected, was as handsome and charming in person as he is on the television. I found him eloquent and not at all pretentious, especially when seated next to White. Perhaps I shouldn’t be too harsh on Marco Pierre White. He is who he is and has been for a long time. Ruhlman, in his Tevas, was a good moderator and prompted well. It was an enjoyable event, and while the question “what is the role of a chef”, may not have been fully answered, it led to an interesting discussion.

I saw Anthony, Marco and Michael as the left the building. I could have gone up, praised their work, and asked for an autograph, but I couldn’t bring myself to it. Wouldn’t that make them the very people they hoped not to be? The celebrity followed by paparazzi, with their pictures up on Perez Hilton? No, these where chefs, and like myself, in it for the food. I took one last glance, and headed for the subway.

A Personal Favorite

2008-09-16T22:54:00.009-03:00

As I was winding my way to a friend’s new apartment the other night, I passed a restaurant that I hadn't been to in a while, but greatly enjoyed in the past. I was very excited to find that this restaurant was right next door to my friend’s new home, and suggested that we dine there that very night. The friend agreed. I'm not going to give an elaborate account of our meal, as it was long and many glasses of wine were involved, but it was truly enjoyable, just as it had been during my previous visits.

The Japanese-run restaurant featuring Italian small plates is a tiny space on 10th Avenue between 1st and 2nd. It is situated on the lowest level of the building, with half of the restaurant below the sidewalk. I would say it could fit a max of twenty people and that would be tight. It is a dark romantic space with near-black wooden tables on one side, and a long high table that seats about 10 on the other. The decor is simple and creates a wonderful atmosphere in which to enjoy the aromas wafting from the nearby open kitchen.

The wine list has grown since my previous visit, as has the menu, which no longer comes on a clipboard. All of the dishes are fairly small and cost between $5-$15 dollars. Two people can eat about four dishes.

Just to give you an idea of what the food is like, we started with cured olives and a lovely fois gras on crostini. We then had a salad with beef carpaccio "swirls" filled with an herb mixture. Probably the best thing we tried was the scallop carpaccio that even the anti-scallop contingency at the table adored. Next came some terrific mussels in a red sauce and perfectly al dente squid-ink pasta. Finally, we scarfed down a dish of braised veal that was perfect in its fattiness. It was all washed down with a light and crisp Sancerre and a decent Pinot Noir.

One of my favorite places. The ambiance is killer, and the food, while not Michelin star worthy, is simple, delicious and fulfilling. I highly recommend it, but don't tell too many people, or we wont be able to get a seat!

Dieci
228 East 10th Street
New York, NY 10003
212-387-9545

BBQ or Bust?

2008-09-16T22:45:00.004-03:00

Some restaurants just don’t quite make it. There are no huge complaints. The service is fine, the food edible, the décor acceptable, but they just don’t hit the mark. Nothing sincerely memorable, or worse, worth going back for. This is the way that I felt about Lookout Hill Smokehouse.

C had wanted to try the place for a while, so I obliged him, and we headed there one quiet Wednesday night. It was after work, and of course, we wanted a drink. One of the reasons C was interested in the place was the extensive bourbon selection, and he ordered one of the nicer options on the list. I ordered my usual glass of wine. The drinks came in jelly glasses. I repeat, jelly glasses. Now this is fine for water, but when you are paying $9 dollars each for a mediocre glass of wine and an expensive shot of bourbon, you want, at least, a vessel that complements the beverage.

On with the food. We decided to split everything so as to have the opportunity to try more. We began with a grilled chicken, hazelnut and apple salad on lamb’s ear lettuce, supposedly a dinner portion. It was petite to say the least. If I had ordered it for my entrée, at $12, I would not have been happy. The taste profile of apples and nuts was fine, but the chicken was dry and chewy.
Our entrée consisted of ribs and a side of macaroni and cheese. The ribs were decent, but once again, nothing amazing. They had a dry rub on them and were tender, but not even close to that falling-off-the-bone goodness that we would have relished. The mac-and-cheese was very creamy (much more so than I would make for myself), in fact, almost liquid between the noodles. However, it was savory and well seasoned, I give them that.

The atmosphere is an attempt at “southern,” I suppose, but not having spent much time down south, I couldn’t be sure. It’s comfortable enough, but the food just isn’t up to par. I might have been more sanguine if the tab had been in the $50 range, but no, ladies and gentlemen, our two meager drinks, appetizer, ribs and mac cost $72.

Save your money and go bbq elsewhere.

Lookout Hill Smokehouse
230 5th Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718-399-2161

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of a Lunch Break 2.0

2008-09-08T21:52:00.003-03:00

From Vanity Fair's "The New Establishment 2008" section on Miuccia Prada:

"Staff members at Prada's New York office are subject to termination if they eat lunch at their desk--unless there are extenuating circumstances."

See!!! I knew I was on the right track with that last post. Those Europeans really know what they're talking about. Perhaps thats why they're happier with their lives on average than Americans. Perhaps that's why they drink more on average and don't have nearly the same rates of alcoholism. It's all about enjoying the free time, leading a fulfilling life, and doing the things that you enjoy. Working hard is fine, its important, but its equally important to find the proper balance between work and play.

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of a Lunch Break

2008-09-07T23:28:00.001-03:00

So I know it’s been a while since my last entry. I feel bad about this. I have been lazy. It’s time to get going. What has been going on in my life that I haven’t had time to update, you might ask? Work. Ah yes, the eternal struggle of mankind. I have been working in the city, commuting everyday to midtown. I get up, I get on the train, I pass out until I hit Grand Central Station. I work all day, with a very, I repeat very, short lunch break. I then work some more, and I go home. So after going home, I’m tired. And that my friends, is why I haven’t had much time to update. But this will change I tell you! From now on I promise, at least once a week.

I must say, one thing that really bothers me about my current position is the short lunch break. Everything else is fine, I’m learning a lot, I like the people, but where is the lunch break?! It’s half an hour, 30 minutes. It takes at least 12 to get out of my office, get in line somewhere, order, pay and eat. So that leaves me, oh, 18 minutes to eat. I am the only person I’m aware of who actually goes out to eat. Everyone else eats at their desk. I go out as a matter of principle. It is important that workers have time to take a break.

How can anyone expect anything to get done when an employee is glued to a desk for nine straight hours a day? The mind starts to wander. What will I eat for dinner tonight? Which train should I take? Should I go visit this friend or that friend? Have I called in my prescription? One needs time to think about these things. To function properly at work, bosses should encourage brief respites. They allow for more productive work during the course of the day.

Not to mention the food! Eating is important to me (I think we all know that by now), and I want to have adequate time to do it. Most cities, and New York especially, have great lunchtime choices, ready for the workers mealtime crush. Where have I been going lately? Hale and Hearty soups is a good place to grab a soup or salad. Lots of choices, fast, convenient, healthy. Prêt a Manger has some good stuff (pre-made wraps and sandwichs) and it always smells delicious when I go in for my morning coffee. I’m a big fan of Dishes, whose Asian noodle soup bowl is enough for both lunch and dinner. They also have a diverse breakfast spread. And then let’s not forget all those great places to get a deli sandwich, a slice of pizza, an omelet made. Hey, it’s New York City, you can get anything, and it will generally be pretty damn tasty.

So I take my lunch break. I defy the clock, and I go out. It may not be for long, it may not be anything exciting, but I go back into the office feeling revitalized and ready to be productive. If I were in charge, it would be for an hour, no two! I would encourage my staff to dine at the finest of establishments, Adour, Le Bernadin, Veritas, all on the corporate card! Ok, maybe that’s not quite realistic. But I would encourage at least a brief change of scenery, a break, a rest, so that everyone is happier and gets more done. All I ask is that I get my half-hour, without scrutiny, without judgment. It’s in the best interest of everyone.

Tapas for Summer Night

2008-06-16T21:20:00.003-03:00

On a sweltering Tuesday night, C and I decided to grab a quick bite in the neighborhood (Park Slope). Originally, we had wanted to try Lookout Hill Smokehouse, but after viewing the extremely heavy and meat-filled menu, we decided to save that for a colder evening and find some more refreshing food. After walking in circles, we stopped at Tamari, a Japanese Sushi and Tapas restaurant. It wasn’t crowded, but still had a good number of people. The interior was a deep red and the walls hung with dubious Pollock-esque paintings

We order some Sake and found it was happy hour. The two-for-one drinks deal was a tremendous bargain, and the Sake was crisp and fruity. From the specials menu, we ordered a Scallop Salad. The shellfish were well seasoned and seared delicately. However, the salad could have been more creative than standard lettuce with tomatoes and carrots on the side.

Next came C’s spicy Cajun Tuna roll. The report was positive, the tuna firm and tasty.
After that a very interesting crunchy-fried octopus tapas, called Tako Tempura from the regular menu. A large, flavorful chunk of octopus, breaded and deep fried with a little salad and a creamy herb mayonnaise on top. I would go back for that.

Last up came a Cold Thai soup, the one low point of the meal. The broth was dull, I was turned-off by the cold mussels and the garnish was exactly the same as the Scallop Salad. Had it been a hot dish, perhaps I also wouldn’t have been as wary of the seafood.

It was a good little find, casual, cheap and tasty (although I’m not sure about the artwork). The tapas were the strong point on the menu, and next time, I would stick with them. Japanese aint always about Sushi and Tamari is proof of that.

Tamari – 201 5th Avenue (between Union and Berkeley) 718-230-5636
Happy Sake Hour – Saturday and Sunday from 4:00-8:00

Californa-Style Mexican in Brooklyn

2008-06-02T18:10:00.004-03:00

Like California style burritos and tasty tacos? Check out Rachel’s Taqueria and La Taqueria in Park Slope, Brooklyn. La Taqueria is a small, mostly take-out type joint. With bright murals on the walls, a bar at the back and quick service, it’s a fun place to grab a quick Mexican bite. Rachel’s Taqueria on 5th Ave was recently converted to more of a sit-down restaurant. The service is good as are the Margaritas. Rachel’s has a nice back-yard seating area, perfect for sunny days and warm nights. Both places have the same menu with all your classic burrito and taco options. The ingredients are fresh and tasty and the prices reasonable. Particularly good is the mole chicken and the shrimp tacos.

La Taqueria – 74th Ave, Brooklyn – 718-398-4300
Rachel’s Taqueria – 408 5th Ave, Brooklyn

A Nice Meal at Nice Matin

2008-05-30T18:28:00.003-03:00

Had a pleasant lunch at Nice Matin on 79th and Amsterdam last Wednesday after the Columbia graduation. The menu made a good attempt at being “Nicois” and did as well as one could expect at a hopping lunch joint on the Upper West Side.

I started with a pistou vegetable soup. It was very tasty with the vegetables cooked right (not too mushy) and a nice strong basil and garlic flavor. Next came a crabmeat salad. Very generous portion but no dressing in sight. I had to ask for oil and vinegar. The flatbread pizza report was very positive from others at the table. C complained that his Croque-Madame had the wrong texture, my Martini wasn’t very dirty and I didn’t like the bare light bulbs trying to imitate some sort of French Ferris wheel décor.

Besides these complaints, a very agreeable place for a casual lunch for business or pleasure.

Nice Matin: 201 West 79th Street, Manhattan, NY

Blue Ribbon Sushi: We Have a Winner.

2008-05-30T18:19:00.005-03:00

When someone names their restaurant, “Blue Ribbon Sushi,” it better be really good--first class, first prize. Fortunately, in the case of the aforementioned restaurant, it lives up to its name. I’ve only been there once, and at a place with two restaurants, a sushi bar and a raw bar as well as an extremely comprehensive kitchen menu, it’s difficult to come to solid conclusions. But so far, so good.

C and I ate at the sushi restaurant around 8:30 on a Friday. While it was busy, we had no trouble getting a table. The restaurant is done up in dark woods with small tables accommodating no more than four or five at most. On one side are four sushi chefs diligently working away.

We were seated in the “couples row” along with several other pairs on dates. While a little tight, it was comfortable enough and allowed for a good view of the restaurant.

The appetizer menu was very long but had some interesting selections. After several minutes of back and forth deliberation, we finally chose two. First came an octopus carpaccio cut from what seemed a very large animal. It tasted fresh and came in a flavorful, mustard-like sauce. Next came homemade pork dumplings that were very fresh and tasty. There were five of them, of the smaller variety as opposed to the larger, crescent-shaped dumplings found at some places.

For our main course we ordered three rolls to share. First off came a lovely eel, radish sprout and avocado role. The eel was very sweet, a tasty bite indeed. Next up, a spicy scallop roll that I found sub-par. The scallops were mushy and unpleasant. They didn’t taste fresh. The last roll was spicy blue crab, which was substantially better. None of that fake crab-roll junk. This was the real deal.

For dessert, C and I split a very rich flourless chocolate tart with three scoops of green tea ice cream. It was a good thing we split it, because it was difficult to finish (and it’s not usually tough for us to sail through a multi-course meal). The ice cream was really the highlight of this dessert, even for one who doesn’t normally like the cliché that is green tea ice cream.

Blue Ribbon Sushi will most assuredly be getting another visit from me. Noted as the best Sushi restaurant in Brooklyn and conveniently located right around the corner from C, it may, in fact, be getting many visits. Next time I will try the raw bar as the sashimi, shellfish and other raw goods come highly recommended. So much to try, so little time.

Blue Ribbon Sushi - 278 5th Avenue (bet. 1st Street and Garfield Place), Brooklyn

Balance in BA

2008-05-18T23:40:00.000-03:00

Going on a recommendation from a friend who had visited Buenos Aires, my parents and I went to Juana M’s for dinner one night in search of a relaxed and easy meal after a busy day of sightseeing; no big ordeal. Located at the top of “Micro Centro,” almost into Retiro, Juana M provided the perfect atmosphere for a tranquil dinner. It was a relaxed setting for discussion and debate, sharing a bottle of wine and enjoying some carné. The patrons were almost entirely Argentine and represented the comfortable upper class who live in the area.

The restaurant is located in the basement of a building, and after passing through the long, narrow front of the restaurant, the main dining room is surprising deep and large. The walls, tables and chairs are painted white. Contemporary art is hung throughout the entire restaurant and provides an interesting view from any seat. One candle adorns each table making for the perfect glow.

As in the majority of Argentine restaurants, the main attraction at Juana M is beef, and that is what we ordered. We began with a regular chorizo and a plate of mollejas (sweetbreads). The chorizo was decent, but I tend to like something a little less dry and a bit fattier. The mollejas were very well cooked, although they needed a little salt and lemon to set them off. For a main course we ordered one Lomo and one Bife de Chorizo. Both were excellent cuts perfectly cooked and tender.

One of the major things that sets Juana M apart is the tremendous salad bar. While most parillas will give you a mediocre salad to accompany your meal, Juana M offers a huge mix and match selection with any dish over 30 pesos. Aubergine, three different kinds of coleslaw, baby spinach, tomatoes, cucumber salad, beans--a veggie lover’s fantasy in a meat-eaters world. Well prepared and fresh, the salad bar was a welcome accompaniment to the delicious beef.

With a good wine list and decent prices, Juana M is a great setting for elegant yet casual dining. The romantic lighting sets off the white walls and furniture, and you won’t hear English at every other table like at some parillas I know. Juana M is recommended for all eaters in Buenos Aires. The ideal balance has been found.

Travels

2008-05-13T15:07:00.005-03:00

Hi Everyone!

Sorry its been a while since my last post. I've been on the road for the last month and haven't had a moment to write. It was a great trip; Cordoba to Salta, over the Andes to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Then down to Santiago, over to Mendoza and back to BA. Then the parents came to visit and it was tour guide time in the city followed by Cusco, Macchu Picchu and Lima for the day. Now I'm back in the states and have lots of free time to catch up. There is so much to share; Northern Argentine Locro, markets full of tripe, goat asado, delicious pasta in Cusco and the best Ceviche that Lima has to offer. Plus more carné! I will also be talking more about our local Greenwich/NYC restaurant scene now that I'm back at home.

Thats all for now, Sophy

Dear Osaka,

2008-04-08T12:46:00.006-03:00

I anticipated visiting your Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Palermo Hollywood for months. I had heard rave reviews from several friends and was expecting one of my best meals in BA. Maybe because of these enormously high expectations I was disappointed. The pedestal upon which I had placed you was undeserved, and while I had a decent meal, it was certainly not deserving of the absolute praise so many have afforded you.

C and I had a 10:00 reservation and the place was hopping. People were moving in and out, and I think by the end of the meal, we had sat through about two table turnovers. The menu was enormous (literally), very awkward to look at sitting at the small table. Didn’t you test these? It had many items from sushi to tirrados, tapas to entrees, and we had no idea how much to order. I had a couple ideas of what I wanted, so we asked our waiter in broken Spanish how much would be appropriate. We settled on two sushi rolls, two tapas, and a ½ portion of two different kinds of tirrados. The waiter indicated that would be sufficient.

The first course arrived (not long after we ordered), little scallops in a sweet mustard sauce with crunchy bits of potato (?). This was probably the best dish of the meal. The presentation in large white spoons was lovely, and it was very good, although a bit over-salted. However, it did seem a bit large for a tapa, which is traditionally one or two bites and something to snack on. The idea of the large tapas (not “regular” tapas) was confirmed when our Thai shrimp arrived two bites into the scallops. It was huge! And it looked more like a shrimp stir-fry one would order at a Chinese restaurant instead of the elegant dish I had expected. It tasted okay, but not any better than the shrimp takeout my dad brings home from Oriental Gourmet.

The next dishes, the two sushi rolls and the two plates of Tirrado, came in rapid-fire succession. Our table was packed; there was no time between courses, no clearing of tables, no time to digest. This was probably the thing that irked me the most about your restaurant. I like to enjoy a meal, each element, take it slow and drink my wine. It was also embarrassing having so many plates on the table. We certainly did not know what we were getting into when we ordered.

As for the rest of the food, the Dos Salmons sushi was decent, but no better than at your average New York sushi joint. I suppose sushi is still a new phenomenon in Buenos Aires, something you have yet to perfect. Much of the sushi menu also included the words “tempura” and “Philadelphia” which shows the level of adventurousness in the average porteno sushi diet. The other roll, which was shrimp with Parmesan cheese on top was definitely off. The flavor profile was all wrong, cheese and sushi to do not mix! C despised this dish.

The Tirrados were decent, the sauces tasty and the fish fresh, but any Japanese person who saw that sauce diminishing the flavor of the fish would have thrown a conniption! , Mango on salmon may have been where you tried to work the Peruvian element in, but it didn’t really seem too Peruvian to me. Maybe I would have been better of trying the ceviche. It was really the only element where I saw anything Peruvian mentioned.

Well Osaka, I’m afraid the meal wasn’t all I expected it to be. While some might be awed by the rolls with big names and the giant (literally) menu, the food just didn’t show, and things were not as neatly pulled together as they should be at a restaurant with those prices. Luckily I was in good company, and we were able to joke about the seven plates piled on our table.

Sincerely, Sophy

Casa Felix

2008-04-02T20:40:00.013-03:00

All over Buenos Aires, Casa Cerradas, or “closed door” restaurants, are popping up to meet the need for a more personal dining experience. I was lucky enough to try one of these restaurants, “Casa Felix,” with C the other night while he was visiting. The restaurant is pescadarian, meaning no meat, and most of the meals are vegetable based. I was interested to try this drastic diversion from standard Argentine fare.

From the exterior, “Casa Felix” appears to be a normal house in the residential barrio of Almagro. The inside presents a fine and intimate dining experience. Before dinner the owner/cook Diego and his girlfriend/hostess Sandra gave us a tour of the whitewashed rooms and the lovely back garden. Diego grows his own indigenous herbs and emphasizes them in his cuisine. He had us smell and taste various plants he would be using in the dinner that night.

After drinking some Clerico in the back garden, we were escorted to the side patio where six little tables with white linens and candles were set – very romantic. Sandra handed us little menus on artisan paper as well as the handwritten wine list. It had some very interesting selections of whites, reds and bubblies, and we chose a bio-dynamically grown Torrontes from Salta. While waiting for the “botanic,” delicious homemade bread was served with what looked like an olive tapenade. Upon tasting, it turned out to be a terrific lentil spread that I could not stop myself from eating…until the first course.

And what a lovely first course it was! Halibut Tirado over Bolivian lime and burrito causa. A little swirl of halibut with a sweet pepper sauce, Peruvian mashed potatoes, and the sour burrito sauce on the bottom. The sweetness of the pepper with the sour lime and burrito was the highlight. All of the ingredients complemented each other fantastically, and I scooped up every last bit. The next course was called Sopa Paraguay, accompanied by an iris salad with lemon verbena dressing. The Sopa Paraguay was actually a moist corn cake topped with a peach salad. It was very well cooked, not dry and brittle like so many breads made with corn.

In between the first two courses, we were served a melon ice. It was not particularly exciting, and I think something more interesting could have been created. The main course, however, was a vegetarian’s dream. Organic ricotta and Portobello stuffed pepper, black rice, and homemade tomato sauce. Onereally couldn’t have put together a tastier vegetarian meal–and hearty enough to satisfy the most diehard carnivore. Even C, who disdains vegetarianism, was impressed. The dinner ended on a bit lower note with a rather bland cookie and ice cream. I was still impressed with the other dishes and did not let this get in the way of my enjoyment of the meal on the whole.

In the middle of a city filled with mediocre nouvelle cuisine, a lot of meat, bland vegetarian and boring Italian, Casa Felix presents a new outlook on Argentine cuisine. The three staff members were very gracious, explained all of the dishes, and made us feel comfortable and relaxed. Using fresh and organic ingredients, Diego Felix creates a memorable dining experience in his lovely home.

Gran Bar Danzon: Creativity at Last!

2008-03-31T22:36:00.006-03:00

To my left sat two alternative American girls struggling with the wine list. To my right, a group of expensively dressed debutantes and one boy with a very fake tan. Gran Bar Danzon is listed in the Lonely Planet Guide book, so there are many English speakers there, but this did not detract too much from the hip atmosphere and interesting menu.

Situated on the second floor of a two-story building in Recoleta, the restaurant emanates a chic, minimalist style with concrete walls, candles and a long dark bar. One side of the restaurant is dedicated to lounging, while the other is reserved for eating. On one wall is a massive display of wine bottles kept in temperature-controlled cases, a physical representation of the extensive Argentine wine list.

The very wine-savvy host showed us to our table and asked if we needed help with the wine list. We ended up choosing a Cabernet Sauvignon called Kaiken at about AR$55. He tried to push us a little higher for a better quality wine, but, alas, we could not afford it. The wine we chose was fine, but for those on a bigger budget, Gran Bar Danzon offers many options from more familiar blends such as Malbec, to the less well known such as the wine Torrontes of Salta. After tackling the wine list, we dug into the menu.

The left side of the menu is dominated by sushi and sashimi. I do not trust Sushi at non-Japanese restaurants, and it appeared to me that this was an addition to keep up with the BA sushi trend rather than a true passion (a must in a good sushi chef). The chef’s attention was obviously focused on the contemporary cuisine options on the right side. In fact, it is one of the most creative menus I have seen in Buenos Aires, and for this I give the chef much credit. The choice was a tough one, but S and I finally made some decisions.

To start, I had a very good lamb duo. The first part was a lamb carpaccio rolled around cream cheese. I am usually not a fan of cream cheese unless on a bagel, and perhaps a different cheese could have been substituted for a more refined offering, but it was well presented and tasted good. The second part was a miniature rack of lamb, well seasoned and cooked, and served with some delicious new potatoes. S had a ceviche of king crab and salmon (?), very good with a strong dose of cilantro. I would definitely order that again. Another interesting appetizer was the pork and vegetable spring rolls. I didn’t try them but they sure looked tasty.

For a main course, S and I split the rabbit ravioli with ricotta emulsion. I must say, while acceptable, I was a somewhat disappointed with this dish. The emulsion didn’t have much flavor and didn’t add substance to the dish. The rabbit filling tasted good, but it could have used some cheese, as it was rather dry. The other main that looked very appealing to me was the pork loin stuffed with morsilla. They always do meat well here in Argentina, so next time I would lean towards that.

For dessert, S and I split a homemade brioche that sandwiched homemade dulce de leche. It was topped with passion fruit and coffee ice cream--very sweet and satisfying, although the coffee ice cream was a bit thick. In all, it was a good end to a tasty meal.

The ambiance at Gran Bar Danzon is terrific, prices are reasonable for the food served, and the wine list is extraordinary. Best of all, the menu provides truly interesting options in a city known for repetitive menus.

Chinatown BsAs: A Welcome Respite From All-Night Clubs and Too Much Carné

2008-03-14T00:28:00.005-02:00

Many Argentines aren’t wild about Chinese people. It’s a fact. While they won’t admit this when questioned, they think their markets are rip-offs and that they serve dog meat in their restaurants. They believe the Chinese are taking over the world and that their mannerisms are unfriendly and standoffish. Now I’m positive not all Argentines think like this, many are open, educated and understanding. But people have said these things to me directly, and to my anthropology-trained ears, I’m rather discomfited. This ethnocentrism and lack of empathy for the immigrant making his or her way in a foreign land seems strange coming from a population comprised of immigrants. Despite the prejudice, a small, vibrant Chinatown has managed to spring up in Buenos Aires. It is not specifically “Chinatown,” but a mélange of the different Asian ethnicities--Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Laotian, etc.

Located directly behind the Barracas de Belgrano TBA train station, Chinatown is relatively small, covering about three blocks of Arribenos. It’s obvious you’ve arrived by the change in faces and language when you arrive. The three-block area contains about 20 little Chinese knick-knack stores carrying the same things you would see in San Francisco or New York Chinatown--paper fans, golden cat banks, herbal balms, cheap little tea sets and much more. It is fun to browse a couple, but generally, if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ‘em all.

Also located in Chinatown are several Chinese markets. Two of them are vast, warehouse-like structures with all of the regular Argentine basics plus Chinese products such as noodles, hot sauces, soy sauces, curries and other Asian-influenced items. They are not much to look at and smell a bit off, but the products are quite cheap, and you can find some respectable bargains. The more posh Chinese grocery, Casa China, is a very pleasant place to visit. It aims for more of a diverse Argentine crowd as opposed to just the local population.

Casa China is great for finding products you can never find in a normal Argentine grocery store. Some of the fine purchases I have made include tofu, delectably spicy garlic hot sauce, rice noodles, oatmeal cookies and lentils, as well as beans and peas that come from bins and are sold by the pound. Casa China also carries some American lines such as Paul Newman’s and has a wide variety of teas. Another great buy there are the cheap sushi rolls! Sushi is expensive in Buenos Aires, but decent rolls of tuna and Philadelphia, salmon and ginger, crab and avocado, to name a few, can be purchased for eight pesos and under. While not the best sushi, it is certainly a bargain that does satisfy a sushi craving.

Scattered amongst these shops and grocery stores are a fair number of Chinese and Asian restaurants. I have been to two, but I have dined at one, Los Palitos, three times now. I’ve had my fair share of American-style Chinese food (which this is), and I wouldn’t put it in my top three list. It does, however, serve a tasty, hearty meal and presents a terrific dining diversion from your typical Buenos Aires night out.

The décor is simple, plastic and wood tables, dark red and cream walls, some various bamboo pieces and reviews hung here and there. The restaurant usually has a good crowd, and sometimes it’s a ten-minute wait or so before you get a table. But they move quickly. Asian people eat there a lot, which is always good sign in my book. The staff is not the friendliest, and there are usually only two waiters. One is a middle-aged woman, abrupt, with a scowl on her face. The other is a man in his late 20’s who speaks some English and looked bored most of the time. It’s all part of the experience.

For starters, there are various dumplings and spring rolls. I would recommend the spring rolls; they’re fried and crispy and taste yummy dipped in duck sauce. The dumplings are fine, but rather bland. There are many main courses ranging from noodles, soups, noodle-soups, chicken, pork, seafood, beef and vegetables. One sure-fire vegetarian bet is the chop suey. A mix of bok choy, bean sprouts, peanuts and “?,” it is never overcooked and is a great break from the Argentine all-meat diet. Another good dish is the chicken with peanuts. The chicken is covered in a flavorful brown sauce with a healthy helping of nuts to make it crunchy, but it’s not spicy in the least as was indicated on the menu, a bit of a disappointment.

One thing that is deliciously spicy is the beef and noodle soup. This is my favorite offering, and one bowl can easily feed two people. The beef falls to pieces when you pick it up, and the broth is spicy, while a bit of grease from the meat makes it savory. It has plenty of noodles and veggies as well--very satisfying and not to be missed.

An appetizer, water, beer and two main dishes will cost you about $30-$40 pesos at Los Palitos. You will be stuffed if you finish it all.

Also located in Chinatown is BuddhaBA, which is supposed to be a very good Sushi and Asian cuisine spot, located in a beautiful old red and white house. Dashi Sushi is supposed to be a good place to get decent sushi as well, if you don’t mind spending the big bucks. I’ve also heard good things about Green Bamboo, a vegetarian restaurant, if you want a break from carné.

A visit to Chinatown is a great way to pass a Buenos Aires night when you’re not in the mood to dance ‘til dawn. You can cover it all in one evening, and there are some fun and interesting purchases to be made. Sometimes I go there just for the grocery store. The Asian population has set up a nice little home base here in Buenos Aires. Even with all of the adversity they face, they have managed to thrive and even bring tourism to their little area in Belgrano.

Don Julio: Brick Walls and Good Beef

2008-03-09T23:49:00.008-02:00

Had a lovely dinner at one of Buenos Aires' fine parilla establishments.On this occasion, I brought five study abroad kids out for their first taste of true Argentine beef. When I had heard the night before that they had been here for a whole week (!!!) and not sampled any of the famed cuisine, I was shocked. It was blasphemy in my book. I insisted that we would go out for dinner the following night, and that I would pick the restaurant and the food. So, after rolling out of bed around 4:00 PM , I hopped on my computer and did a little research on the Guia Oleo (BsAs restaurant guide).

I chose Don Julio for several reasons. First off, it had positive reviews and this is always important. Secondly, the prices seemed reasonable, not too cheap but not too expensive. The pictures also suggested a pleasant atmosphere, and it was walking distance from my apartment to boot. All encouraging factors to create a memorable meal.

Don Julio is located on the corner of Gurruchuga and Guatemala. It is a pleasant restaurant, well lit and with a charming ambiance. The tables are all covered in rawhide; the walls are of exposed brick. The lights hang a bit brightly from wagon wheels on the ceiling. It has an upstairs dining balcony as well as a "smoking" back room. As you walk in, there is a lovely parilla to the right where you can see all of the meats being prepared.

I arrived on time (as I always do, usually to my chagrin) at 9:30 PM, and had about twenty minutes to peruse the menu until the rest of the party showed up. There was a lovely wine list with many good selections, mostly expensive, but several affordable bottles. I ordered a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sorilla ($45AR) and passed a pleasant 15 minutes sipping the smooth wine and enjoying my surroundings. I was also able to take a long look at the menu–-all of the typical parilla food as well as several very nice looking salads and a main menu with options from salmon to chicken to lamb.

When the rest of party finally arrived, I went to work ordering what I thought to be the most typical parilla cuisine. We started off with one chorizo per person and three morsilla to share. The chorizo was not the best I have ever had. It was cut off a larger portion and not as juicy as I would have liked ($7AR each). It was decent, however, and I think everyone enjoyed it. The chimichuri accompaniments were also quite spicy and flavorful. The morsilla on the other hand was very smooth and tasty and the portions were very generous ($14 AR each). There wasn’t any gristle, and it had a good helping of yellow raisins. I was surprised that everyone ate as much of it as they did and very proud as well.

We had about half an hour between courses, which is something that I always enjoy. We ordered another bottle of Malbec, although I can’t remember the name. The waiter was very attentive and even changed our glasses between bottles, a nice touch, although not completely necessary. It was a welcome rest period. Everyone was getting a little full from the sausage, and it gave us a chance to breath and digest.

Finally the main meat arrived. The portions were not as big as I had thought they would be, but they were the perfect amount for us. The Lomo was very satisfying, grilled tenderly a punto with a lovely consistency ($32AR). The Caudrito de Caudrill was tasty but had a lot of fat on it ($25AR). In fact, half of my portion was straight lard (but I did get the end piece). The Bife de Chorizo had a lovely flavaor but was a bit on the raw side ($32AR). We also had one of the better caprese salads I have had in BsAs, nice dressing and lots of fresh mozzarella.

In all, I had a very commendable experience at Don Julio. I wouldn’t say it was the finest food I have ever eaten, but it was very good. What this parilla really has going for it is the ambiance. It wasn’t too loud or dark, just very relaxing and pleasant. The service was also very good, and the waiter was always there when we needed him. I would recommend this parilla for a fun, relaxing and reasonable night out.

Don Julio: Guatemala 4691 esq. Gurruchuga 4831-9564 for reservations

Who Wants Helaaadooo?

2008-03-09T14:50:00.009-02:00

On my way down to Argentina, the last thing that I expected was good ice cream. No one told me about this phenomenon, and when I arrived in Buenos Aires, I was shocked to see an ice cream joint on every corner. Now I like ice cream in the States; it's good on occasion, but I never make an event of going out to get the frozen treat. There is generally no revelatory moment, sitting around at home when I think, “Yes, I am going to leave the comfort of my home for the sole purpose of ice cream.” Here, however, it’s a fairly frequent occurence.

I’m going to stop using the term “ice cream” from here on out when referring to this Argentine frozen confection. Its helado, pronounced “elado” (silent H). In fact, its not really much like the stuff we get at home, Haagen Daaz, Ben and Jerry’s, etc. It's much more like Italian gelato, which makes sense since Argentina has a very strong Italian roots. Now, what is the difference between helado and ice cream you might ask? Well, helado is made with whole milk whereas ice cream is made with, you guessed it, cream. Helado also has eggs, resulting in a denser, creamier treat with less fat (3%-6% as opposed to 11%-15%). It is also served at a lower temperature, making it easier to scoop but less drippy because of all the eggs. I personally prefer helado to ice cream. It has a more intense flavor, and you don’t feel quite as guilty about eating it.

It is important to go to an artisanal Heladeria. These places generally produce their helado on the premises with fresh ingredients and have anywhere from 20 to 50 flavors. At least eight are usually Dulce de Leche flavors, my personal favorite. For those who don't know, Dulce de Leche is a very sticky caramel-like substance made by boiling down milk and sugar for long periods of time. Good Dulce de Leche helado isn’t too sweet and has a bit of a smoky flavor. You can get Dulce de Leche with chocolate bits, brownie, almonds and other little chunks of goodness mixed in. There is also usually a very large selection of chocolate and fruit flavors, which can be hit or miss depending on the location. Sambayon, Tiramisu and Panna Cotta are some other interesting options to try. It is also very important that you get more than one flavor. No Argentine would ever be satisfied with just one. There are many combinations that work, but it's generally a personal preference. I like Dulce de Leche con Brownie y Frambuesa (raspberry). Coconut and Chocolate are also a good combo.

What Heladeria is the best in Bs As is a big topic of debate. My personal favorite is Fratello, closest to my apartment at Plaza Guemes. It has a huge selection, and whatever I get is always good. They are very friendly and attentive, and you can sit at the café for as long as you please. I have also tried Munchi’s and Freddo (chains), but I generally stick to my neighborhood joint. The BEST helado I ever had, however, was down in Bariloche at a place called Jauja, famous throughout Argentine for having just that, the BEST. Their fruit flavors were phenomenal as they operate in the middle of berry-land. The chocolate was also amazing, thick, rich and a very good late-night snack.

In conclusion, if you come to Argentina, try the helado. I guarantee if you try it the first night, it will be hard to stay away for the rest of your trip.

For more info, go to:

http://www.heladeriafratello.com/

http://www.freddo.com/

http://www.heladosjauja.com/

P.S. Helado can be ordered in many different serving sizes. The little cones usually range from $5-$7AR. They then move into little cups $7-$9AR, and then to "termicos," big containers that keep helado cold for a bit, so you can take it home and keep it in your freezer. These go from 1/4 kilo at around $10AR to 1 kilo at $35AR. Enjoy!

I Got Maaaad Status

2008-03-09T01:19:00.005-02:00

Status: My Peruvian Obsession

There is always a line outside one of my favorite BA haunts: Status. It's a good sign if ever I have seen one. Normally at any restaurants where there would be a line, I would call up and try and make a reservation, but Status is not one of “those” types of restaurants. It is a local spot, and Peruvians, Argentines and tourists alike flock to this big, well-lit restaurant to chow down some traditional home-cooked Peruvian fare.

I first went to Status with my roommate Sarah. Her reviews were already rave. She had “discovered” the place in the Lonely Planet guide before she became broke and unable to eat out on a regular basis. But Status remained on her list of restaurants even after she ran low on discretionery income, because it is cheap–-cheap and delicious.

Each meal starts out with fresh bread and some sort of intensely spicy green concoction. I’m not exactly sure what it is. All I know is that I love to scoop it onto my bread until my mouth and nostrils are burning. After that, the menu is full of enticing, if not slightly confusing, options. The first time I was there, I was so overwhelmed that I simply pointed to what the man next to me had and asked for that in my broken Spanish. It turned out to be a good decision, a mixture of fish, clams and squid in a delectable cream-colored sauce ($22AR). Perfectly seasoned, as their food always is, I had trouble finishing it.

A classic standby at Status, and what Sarah always orders, is the fried steak with vegetables and beans in a sweet brown sauce. The portions are huge, and it always hits the spot. I am usually seen at the end of the meal embarrassingly spooning the leftover onions into my mouth. This dish can also be combined with potatoes if one is in the mood to indulge a carb craving. The only miss I have ever had at Status was the chicken tamale ($9AR). While still quite edible, it came out a bit cold and was rather bland. It lacked the perfect seasoning that I had come to expect from Status. The side salad of cold onions in vinegar and herbs, however, is delectable. Another recommendation is the Pollo “Estofado,” a very nice leg of chicken with rice in another heavenly brown sauce ($16AR).

One last thing not to be missed at Status are the Pisco Sours. The national drink of Peru and Chile, yet rarely found in Argentina, the Pisco Sour is a powerful kickoff to your meal. With a good two shots of alcohol, whipped egg whites, soda and lemon, it will really get your appetite going. Follow that with a bottle from the very affordable and decent wine list, and you will be set for a night on the town.

Status: Virrey Cevallos 178, Congreso, Buenos Aires

Emotional Hunger

2008-03-09T00:58:00.002-02:00

Lately, I have been feeling emotionally hungry. It's not a physical hunger. I have no pain in my stomach, and I am not faint as I walk around the city. No, it's in my head. Lately I have been trying to read up on the contemporary food world. When I return home, I plan to somehow break into the business! But to do this, I must be knowledgeable. Looking at all of the pictures, reading all of the restaurant reviews, menus and blogs is taking its toll. As I scroll through page after page on the World Wide Web, my mouth waters as I swoon over Michellin-starred menus.

It's not that the food in Buenos Aires isn’t good, it's just that I’m too broke to eat at any of the good restaurants. They don’t offer the same variety on all price levels that they do in New York. Occasionally I go to some cheap joints I know for Peruvian or Chinese food, but it's not the lovely, fanciful, creative food that makes my pulse race.

Argentine food tends to be a little on the boring side. Their idea of spicy is a bit of black pepper. I have to dump a whole load of their hot sauce onto a meal to even get the slightest hint of fire in my mouth. It is also difficult to find fresh herbs, spices, peppers and good condiments, unless you are willing to spend a fortune. At home, I can go out and get everything in under two or three stop–-meat, fish, herbs, you name it. Here it would take many more, and I wouldn’t know where to begin.

Honestly, it wouldn’t take the finest restaurant in New York City to satisfy my cravings. It would take the good, down-home Connecticut food I am used to. The Delis that I grew up taking for granted, some Garden Catering or some Pizza Post. How it would please me to hit up Meli-Melo for a midweek lunch or a light dinner with a choice bottle of wine. The soup, the crepes, the salads. Or then again, maybe some wings from Mackenzie’s or some baked ziti from Athens. I would eat it all. That would certainly satisfy my emotional hunger.